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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Dallas, TX
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Super, thank you. BTW, I obtained a CD with all the Flyline plans from a seller on eBay. I had bought a kit without plans and Kinkos charged $5 for a sheet that was perfect. I am wondering if the .pdf files on the CD can be enlarged 100% and then be printed; worth a try! Thanks again; I will be following your build. Great work so far.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 07:17 PM
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S/E Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liteweight View Post
Super, thank you. BTW, I obtained a CD with all the Flyline plans from a seller on eBay. I had bought a kit without plans and Kinkos charged $5 for a sheet that was perfect. I am wondering if the .pdf files on the CD can be enlarged 100% and then be printed; worth a try! Thanks again; I will be following your build. Great work so far.
I believe thats how it's done. Call around the reprographics shops in your area. If you're lucky, you won't have to go far. Which model are you thinking of enlarging?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:06 AM
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Dallas, TX
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Flyline plans

Not sure which one yet, maybe the Luton Minor or the Robin. The CD is at the office downtown and there is a Kinko's a short walk from there. Last time I e-mailed it and picked it up. Thing is, some of the files are very large so need to keep that in mind. I'll sure let you know how that turns out. Thanks.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:04 AM
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S/E Michigan
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The plans call for a solid balsa trailing edge on the wing. I figure a built up one will weigh less. Light balsa was chosen for the ribs, scale spacing as well. The rear spar is light, while hard balsa was chosen for the main.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:55 AM
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United States, VA, Chesterfield
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Nice work!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:00 PM
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FWIW, sez 'ere that the prototype used Clark Y, i.e. no undercamber.

http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&si....1.mynjLDLLrng

An old maxim from free flight days long ago: "Make it fly - use Clark Y"

Sam
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 07:01 PM
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S/E Michigan
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It's not crystal clear in my mind how to proceed with the wing center section, so I'll do the leading and trailing edge sheeting, then set the right half aside. I'll wait until the fuselage is roughed out before proceeding with the wing center section.
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Last edited by phillip57; Oct 26, 2012 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:03 PM
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The wing tips are soft balsa.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 04:39 PM
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We've set aside the wing for now. Realized before it was too late, that if the leading edge sheeting was installed, there would have been a problem joining the main spar.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Agassiz View Post
FWIW, sez 'ere that the prototype used Clark Y, i.e. no undercamber.

An old maxim from free flight days long ago: "Make it fly - use Clark Y"

Sam

An interesting story about the Clark Y airfoil and its origins: Virginius Clark was an aeronautical engineer in the WWI era and beyond. Among the early work that he did for NACA was to develop a series of airfoils which were named for him. There was a Clark W, a Clark X, a Clark Y, and a Clark Z. All the airfoils were similar in appearance and performance from our perspective. When Donald Hall (Chief Designer for Mahony-Ryan Aircraft) chose an airfoil, he selected the Clark Y from among the available state of the art sections.

When the Spirit Of St. Louis successfully flew the Atlantic, many new commercial aircraft and models came out loosely based on the same layout. The other Clark airfoils received far less notoriety even though they were nearly the same.

Since that day, modelers have gravitated to the airfoil that the Spirit used. Over the generations most of us have forgotten why we are still using it. It is a good airfoil, but it's popularity is due mostly because that's what Lucky Lindy used.

Dick
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Thanks for the history lesson! Anything thats relevant, feel free to kick in.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:07 AM
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Cool story about Clark Y!
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 01:53 PM
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We're excited... this aluminum tape was found at the local hardware. A section was applied to the metal jar top, Then a wire brush in the dremmel did the burnishing. Z-Poxy ought to seal, and firm up the surface of the balsa blocks which will make up the nose of the model, which will then be sanded smooth. The aluminum tape applied and burnished. Such is the plan....
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Canada, BC, Squamish
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Why not use actual aluminium and burnish it? For my Guillows conversion I used beer/pop cans turned inside out. You have to sand off the varnish. I replicated the burnishing with a pencil eraser in a drill press.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Grejen View Post
Why not use actual aluminium and burnish it? For my Guillows conversion I used beer/pop cans turned inside out. You have to sand off the varnish. I replicated the burnishing with a pencil eraser in a drill press.
That's a good idea, I'd thought about it. Just looking at options.
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