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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:16 PM
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jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Chris, your foam is a lot farther back. I put mine farther forward to help block air flow from the inputs, since it's exposed on top of a quad.

FYI, I played with shining a powerful light through many different felts & foams in my garage. Neoprene was the only suitable material (no pun intended) that didn't let a single pinhole of light through. The material Joe used on his baro also looks like neoprene. Neoprene is non-porous. So without a thin fabric sheathing between it an the baro, the holes may get sealed shut.

BTW, on a related note, I like the idea of pressing dense foams against the PCB. Helps with vibration as well as protects the baro.

Kev
You do not want to push it hard against the holes and block them completely.

I did find some open foam that also works, it is black, I can see the tiniest amount of light coming through when I hold it up to a bright light, the source well, it is from ED in a hospital, it was originally used to hold small glass ampules in holes in the black foam.

Some grey colored open foam that seems to be the same except for color doesn't work. Yellow colored open foam doesn't work in the tests I have performed, which is why I was thinking light Pink foam with LED shining up into it was not a good idea.

The test is, get a really bright light and shine it toward the baro while observing VSI in APM Planner, if it swings really wildly as the light hits it then try something else because it is not working.

You know you found the right foam when the readings don't' change at all hen the the light is suddenly directed toward the barometer.

If you use closed foam, you need to test that the foam isn't completely blocking the holes which it will do if you press it down hard, so test by observing altitude in AP Planner and raising and lowering APM 2.5 board ensuring altitude is in fact changing.

You want to keep out light and prop wash yet measure atmospheric pressure accurately, it is a juggling act.

Another consideration if you are using a food container or CD case to protect the electronics, drill some holes to let air out of the container so it cannot become pressurized and lead to incorrect baro readings, for example, if the container only has holes underneath for the cables and the top is sealed you will have incorrect atmospheric pressure readings when the frame descends rapidly..
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:52 PM
Attention to the small details
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlite View Post
Chris Anderson from DIY Drones/3D Robotics here. I'm a little confused by this comment. When properly positioned in the case, the foam doesn't cover any LEDs.
Hi Chris, I don't have one of your cases with pink foam, my comment was based on testing I did with various colors of open foam, grey, green, light yellow, white.

The only open foam that I found works is black almost shinny black instead of the usual dull appearance of open foam, I sourced it from ED in a Hospital, discarded packing.

The holes in the black foam are used as packing to protect Testing Solution glass ampules for a HEMACUE 201 machine used for testing 3 ranges of Hemoglobin.





In this photo, on the left, you can see a piece of ordinary grey open foam holding up the LED, that foam will NOT work to keep light out of the barometer. The black foam from Hemacue packing which I have covering the barometer held in place by a cable tie works very well, it is open foam so there is no risk of blocking the barometer holes if it presses hard against it.

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Last edited by jabram; Dec 03, 2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:39 AM
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Akcopter's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabram View Post
Hi Chris, I don't have one of your cases with pink foam, my comment was based on testing I did with various colors of open foam, grey, green, light yellow, white.

The only open foam that I found works is black almost shinny black instead of the usual dull appearance of open foam, I sourced it from ED in a Hospital, discarded packing.

The holes in the black foam are used as packing to protect Testing Solution glass ampules for a HEMACUE 201 machine used for testing 3 ranges of Hemoglobin.





In this photo, on the left, you can see a piece of ordinary grey open foam holding up the LED, that foam will NOT work to keep light out of the barometer. The black foam from Hemacue packing which I have covering the barometer held in place by a cable tie works very well, it is open foam so there is no risk of blocking the barometer holes if it presses hard against it.

Be careful and ground yourself ...as static discharge will almost certainly destroy the board.....
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:56 AM
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How will the anti-static foam that comes with the KK2 board from HK do if used to cover the baro??
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:21 AM
Chris Anderson
San Francisco/Bay Area
Joined Mar 2007
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AKocpter: Thanks! We'll look into switching the foam color to black.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:50 PM
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Derek_S's Avatar
United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined May 2009
2,706 Posts
Anyone have any tips on getting the Minum OSd to work?

I have connected it and it is just showing the "Waiting For Heartbeats" notification.

It has all current firmware, and I have configured it as per here:
Quote:
SR0_EXT_STAT,2
SR0_EXTRA1,15
SR0_EXTRA2,10
SR0_EXTRA3,3
SR0_PARAMS,50
SR0_POSITION,3
SR0_RAW_CTRL,0
SR0_RAW_SENS,25
SR0_RC_CHAN,3
SR3_EXT_STAT,2
SR3_EXTRA1,15
SR3_EXTRA2,5
SR3_EXTRA3,3
SR3_POSITION,0
SR3_RAW_CTRL,0
SR3_RAW_SENS,25
SR3_RC_CHAN,0
Change accordingly an
Assuming the green wire is the TX-------->RX line (from APM to MOSD), it is all connected correctly. I didnt connect the tx, and am not using telemetry.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:55 AM
Always learning..
Jumpy07's Avatar
United Kingdom
Joined Aug 2012
390 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek_S View Post
Anyone have any tips on getting the Minum OSd to work?

I have connected it and it is just showing the "Waiting For Heartbeats" notification.

It has all current firmware, and I have configured it as per here:


Assuming the green wire is the TX-------->RX line (from APM to MOSD), it is all connected correctly. I didnt connect the tx, and am not using telemetry.
If you are not using Telemetry then connect TX and RX and MinimOSD will inititate Mavlink.

If Telemetry is connected then only one can be a "Talker", you therefore need to initiate a Telemetry session to force Mavlink data to be sent to the MinimOSD, or you can make these changes to force data to be sent..


Connect to Mission Planner > Go to configuration > Locate EEPROM parameters and make sure that you have the following parameters configured:

SR0_EXT_STAT,2
SR0_EXTRA1,15
SR0_EXTRA2,10
SR0_EXTRA3,3
SR0_PARAMS,50
SR0_POSITION,3
SR0_RAW_CTRL,0
SR0_RAW_SENS,25
SR0_RC_CHAN,3
SR3_EXT_STAT,2
SR3_EXTRA1,15
SR3_EXTRA2,5
SR3_EXTRA3,3
SR3_POSITION,0
SR3_RAW_CTRL,0
SR3_RAW_SENS,25
SR3_RC_CHAN,0

Change and save the parameters to APM, then MinimOSD should work ok without having to first connect telemetry.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 04:17 AM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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I followed this guide to setup my parameters for ArduCam 2 and telemetry together (OSD Tx pin disconnected):

http://diydrones.com/profiles/blog/s...ource=activity

That thread is from ArduCam 1.x, and ArduCam 2 is more like MinimOSD-Extra, but mine works without setting the SR0 parameters as shown in this thread for MOextra:

http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/...age=3#comments

My SR0 values were set to defaults automatically when I configured my telemetry. My understanding is if you set them higher you may get a smoother display, but if you go too high you can saturate telemetry communications. I don't think that is something to worry about unless you use telemetry though? FWIW, my OSD won't get data until after MP is connected, then it will continue to work even after disconnecting. It works without connecting to MP if I remove the telemetry and connect the OSD Tx pin.

Notes on OSD layout:
1- I discovered if the warning display is placed overlapping the artificial horizon using the OSD config tool, the screen goes really weird when a warning flashes. I almost went crazy trying to figure that one out LOL.

2- If you try to hide unwanted characters by overlapping the red reserved areas in the OSD tool, you will get fuzzy characters. Often the anomalies occur at the overlapped area, sometimes you'll get a white line.

I recently downloaded this small font character file for ArduCam but haven't tried it out:

http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/ne...l-for-minimosd

After playing with CL-OSD the smaller fonts grew on me. So hope that works with ACam 2.0.

Cheers,
Kev
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 06:37 AM
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Akcopter's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlite View Post
AKocpter: Thanks! We'll look into switching the foam color to black.
Nope jabram(Joe) deserved the credit.....
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Derek_S's Avatar
United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined May 2009
2,706 Posts
Thanks guys for the tips, but I have configured those parameters, and still no love.

I did try reconnecting the TX line (yellow) but still cant get the mavlink.

Truglodite, I also tried (quickly before work) these settings you linked:
http://diydrones.com/profiles/blog/s...ource=activity
and still no luck. I have tried a lot of the other troubleshooting ideas such as testing with USb disconnected, re-flashing the firmware and charsets... It really wants to work, but just wont.

Do I need to in some way enable the telemetry radio in the hardware/3dr radio menus to get that port to start working?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:41 AM
Attention to the small details
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akcopter View Post
Nope jabram(Joe) deserved the credit.....
Darn, I was enjoying the confusion figured I was safe and YOU would get the blame.

You asked about KK2 black box, I did in fact try that weeks ago, the inner part of the lid will exclude light from the Barometer, just don't force it tight up against the holes.

Static discharge, sure. always need to be aware and careful.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:56 AM
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flyboygaac's Avatar
Portugal, Lisbon, Sintra
Joined Jul 2011
483 Posts
How do I connect a Bluetooth module to APM2.5 and also Telemetry?
Is the 1k resistor needed in BT RXD?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 11:17 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2012
58 Posts
Hi Jabram, I,2ve received 433mhz telemetry kit but as mentioned in dıydrones forum, isn't it too noisy? my 'air' noise is around 20 (I didn't know the unit,there are just numbers) whereas my ground module's is 80. Is it normal? And it's range is about 30 metre(inside the apartment, walls, laptops etc.) What is your opinion?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Sandy Hook, VA USA
Joined Jul 2010
26 Posts
I just received the ArduFlyer? board 2.5 from RCTimer and I am getting an error trying to load the firmware for the ArduCopter V2.8.1 Hexa in MP. The message is Failed download new firmware System.IO.IO Exception : The port ‘COM8’ does not exist.

Under Device Manager Ports(COM & LPT) it shows Arduino Mega 2560(COM8). Mission Planner has COM8 selected with a baud rate of 115200.

I have a Windows XP (32 bit) system.

Can anybody help me get past this error?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:24 PM
Always learning..
Jumpy07's Avatar
United Kingdom
Joined Aug 2012
390 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by colsen2715 View Post
I just received the ArduFlyer? board 2.5 from RCTimer and I am getting an error trying to load the firmware for the ArduCopter V2.8.1 Hexa in MP. The message is Failed download new firmware System.IO.IO Exception : The port ‘COM8’ does not exist.

Under Device Manager Ports(COM & LPT) it shows Arduino Mega 2560(COM8). Mission Planner has COM8 selected with a baud rate of 115200.

I have a Windows XP (32 bit) system.

Can anybody help me get past this error?
Sounds like a cable or PC problem.. would try another USB cable before doing anything else
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