HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 01, 2012, 07:04 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,505 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Akcopter, unfortunately the $21 minimosd v0.1 I ordered on Nov 8 probably got tossed off the ship or something.
My cheap minimOSD just showed up a minute ago. I already recorded FPV cam footage without the OSD on my first hover. I will install and test the OSD this evening, record video, and compare to see if there's added noise.

BTW, I think very early on it was asked if the clone board came with the same spectacular BOM specified on the website. I took a close up of my AFM2.5 board that came out good enough to read the component labels. It looks legit to me, but I posted the image so experts can look it over. Let me know if the resolution is inadequate... my camera can get in A LOT closer than that if needed.

Kev
Truglodite is offline Find More Posts by Truglodite
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 01, 2012, 08:15 PM
Click eagle to read my blog
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
4,926 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
I finally got my AFM2.5 installed in my quad, and so far everything is turning the right direction. If anyone was curious about gimbal servo power... I connected a separate 5V uBEC to the input side, no BEC on the output side (no power module either), JP1 removed, and a tilt servo hooked up to 'A8'. The tilt servo does in fact receive power without having a separate supply on the output side. It works well with tilt stabilize on. I can't wait for the rain to go away.

Akcopter, unfortunately the $21 minimosd v0.1 I ordered on Nov 8 probably got tossed off the ship or something. Goodluckbuy said wait until the 9th to send an e-mail if nothing shows up LOL. I will send the e-mail, but I expect that to end up lost as well. I won't buy from them again, but I do want a minimOSD v1.1. It has a better regulator, which means I can isolate it from my 5V bus and get cleaner video.

Kev
Using foam that allows lots of light to easily get to the barometer is NOT a good idea.

The barometer is extremely sensitive to light which affects it worse than prop wash.

Try it yourself, shine a torch onto the barometer, switch the torch on and off, watch the huge jump in barometer readings.

Having a piece of light pink foam over two flashing high brightness LEDs whose light easily reaches the barometer is a really bad idea. I am surprised DIY Drones actually recommend this ridiculous beyond crazy idea. This will definitely NOT help to achieve anywhere near accurate altitude hold.

A small piece of opaque foam placed over the barometer and not covering the LED is a much better solution



All the excitement about the case, I simply don't understand, the APM 2.5 board is not the only thing that needs protection, it is a lot easier to have a very ordinary food container or CD case to protect FC, Receiver, GPS, UBEC antennas etc.

jabram is offline Find More Posts by jabram
RCG Plus Member
Old Dec 01, 2012, 08:19 PM
Click eagle to read my blog
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
4,926 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
BTW, I think very early on it was asked if the clone board came with the same spectacular BOM specified on the website. I took a close up of my AFM2.5 board that came out good enough to read the component labels. It looks legit to me, but I posted the image so experts can look it over. Let me know if the resolution is inadequate... my camera can get in A LOT closer than that if needed.

Kev
The ArduFlyer is 100% exactly the same as APM 2.5 except for the price and 3DR logo silkscreen..
jabram is offline Find More Posts by jabram
RCG Plus Member
Old Dec 01, 2012, 09:55 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,505 Posts
jabram, thanks for the heads up on the extreme light sensitivity. I will experiment and see what I can do if it becomes a real problem. So far I haven't noticed anything that looked odd. That makes me wonder... how much baro noise does everyone else see with their aircraft just sitting on the ground? My board averages +-9 units of noise on the blue vertical speed indicator in the Flight Data HUD (imperial units used). I'm sure zero noise is ideal, but compared to the accuracy and precision I see lifting the copter up and down, the noise seems like it would be negligible.

Akcopter, my $21 minimOSD works excellent! I soldered both jumpers on the OSD board to combine the 5V rails, and haven't seen any added video noise versus without the OSD connected. I used my FTDI breakout (set to 3.3V) and the OSD configuration tool from the wiki to flash the latest firmware and character set (character file comes with the tool). Since I'm using telemetry, I had to leave the green Tx wire disconnected. On the trouble shooting section of the OSD wiki, it mentions setting "SR3..." parameters to "5". Before I did that, all the flight data showed zeroes, the horizon didn't move, etc. After setting the appropriate attitude, gps, and nav messages to 5, the OSD and telemetry worked together. From reading that troubleshooting note, I assume if you don't use telemetry, you can connect the OSD tx wire and it "just works" without having to modify those parameters.

Cheers,
Kev

[tip: If you need to, solder the jumpers before insulating the board. I wasted my last bit of 3/4" heatshrink because I forgot to solder the jumpers first. So I used tape instead, LOL! ]
Truglodite is offline Find More Posts by Truglodite
Last edited by Truglodite; Dec 01, 2012 at 10:01 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:30 PM
Click eagle to read my blog
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
4,926 Posts
Kev,

This all the Barometer variation I get when not moving the frame, the VSI dips from 0 to the next small line below 0 and even when I shine a powerful hunting light which is much brighter than an ordinary torch straight at the ArduFlyer barometer from about 2 feet away, it does not change.









I am using a small piece of foam from Hobby King Receiver & General Purpose Protecting Sponge with Velcro Tie.

It is the only thing I have found so far that does work very well and is easy to attach. I use ordinary clear tape over the top, do not use glue or get any glue in the 2 barometer holes.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_bag_.html




Joe
jabram is offline Find More Posts by jabram
RCG Plus Member
Last edited by jabram; Dec 01, 2012 at 10:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:24 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,505 Posts
Thank you very much Joe. My baro noise is much worse than yours. I have some fuel safe foam that may work the same that HK foam product you are using. I will try gluing a small chunk of it to the pink foam over my baro and report back.

Kev
Truglodite is offline Find More Posts by Truglodite
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 01:54 AM
Future-proof EVERYTHING
DarkHeli's Avatar
NY
Joined Jul 2008
762 Posts
Ok, looks like I have another issue..

I was trying to get the turnigy plush esc's to arm which proved to be more difficult then I expected. I tried everything in the manuals and wiki and nothing worked. I can get the APM led solid red, however no response from escs.

My problem now however, is that while messing around while powered I re plugged the ch 3 throttle cable coming from my apm to the RX and when I did that, all the power went out to the apm board, gps, etc. Now, I can only get the board to turn on when I plug in the usb and if I install a normal battery, nothing works. I have a feeling I fried a fuse on the board since its blocking the esc inputs from powering the rest of the system..
DarkHeli is offline Find More Posts by DarkHeli
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:18 AM
Still flying
Ramnes's Avatar
Oslo, Norway
Joined Feb 2009
545 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
Ok, looks like I have another issue..

I was trying to get the turnigy plush esc's to arm which proved to be more difficult then I expected. I tried everything in the manuals and wiki and nothing worked. I can get the APM led solid red, however no response from escs.

My problem now however, is that while messing around while powered I re plugged the ch 3 throttle cable coming from my apm to the RX and when I did that, all the power went out to the apm board, gps, etc. Now, I can only get the board to turn on when I plug in the usb and if I install a normal battery, nothing works. I have a feeling I fried a fuse on the board since its blocking the esc inputs from powering the rest of the system..
If you get in contact with the board, open Arduino and point it to right serial port and board. Go to Tools and Seral Monitor. In the text field, push "Enter" on the keyboard three times fast and you should see the CLI menu. Go to setup and do the "Reset" command and hit "Enter". I tried the "Reset" button a few tiimes but it did'nt help. The Rx and Tx leds start to blink heavily when doing it this way, but after blinking for 30 minutes i pulled the USB cable and plugged it back in to see that it was still alive.

I read somewhere that you can have power only on Output 1-4 only, I had all connected and removed 5-6, resetted the board again and it worked.

Now i'm just waiting for some good weather to fly(-12 here now)

Hope this helps. Learning CLI is a good thing.

J
Ramnes is offline Find More Posts by Ramnes
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:19 AM
Click eagle to read my blog
jabram's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kendall
Joined Jul 2012
4,926 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
Ok, looks like I have another issue..

I was trying to get the turnigy plush esc's to arm which proved to be more difficult then I expected. I tried everything in the manuals and wiki and nothing worked. I can get the APM led solid red, however no response from escs.

My problem now however, is that while messing around while powered I re plugged the ch 3 throttle cable coming from my apm to the RX and when I did that, all the power went out to the apm board, gps, etc. Now, I can only get the board to turn on when I plug in the usb and if I install a normal battery, nothing works. I have a feeling I fried a fuse on the board since its blocking the esc inputs from powering the rest of the system..
Your ESC not responding, is an ESC calibration issue.

APM 2.5 is seeing low Throttle and Yaw right so it arms and turns on the LED.

if your ESC calibration is not correct - as it seems - then the ESC is not seeing a low enough PWM to actually ARM. An ESC calibration issue. Your ESC is programmed to a lower PWM to ARM than what it is currently getting.

You didn't blow a fuse, the fuses are self resetting.

I think you may have damaged one or more protection diodes and perhaps even a voltage regulator on APM 2.5. You may have also damaged the UBEC in one or more of your ESC, you need to thoroughly check each one for output voltage, when ESC UBEC fails sometimes they put out the full battery voltage.

I hate to lecture anyone at a time like this, believe me! if you decide to continue then please heed the following advice.

Please get a separate Low Noise Switching UBEC and use it ONLY to power the APM 2.5 by connecting the GND and 5V to one of the spare INPUT Channels. One dedicated power supply for APM 2.5 GPS 3DRadio etc.

I use this one from HobbyKing
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Reduction.html







ONLY connect the signal wire from each ESC to APM2.5 board.

DO NOT connect any of the ESC GND or 5V cables to APM 2.5 [RED and WHITE cables] Doing that will save you from things like what just happened AND your entire system will run a lot better, less interference from Ground Loops and no chance of the entire craft being destroyed in a crash if the UBEC in one of your ESC fails and there is no power at all for the RX or APM 2.5.

If you follow my advice above, APM 2.5 gets 5V and GND connection from the dedicated switching UBEC, and the only connection to each ESC is one single PWM output Signal cable

What I described above looks like this on my Hex X and it works just fine, wiring is a lot easier, tidier, safer and there is less risk of problems.
jabram is offline Find More Posts by jabram
RCG Plus Member
Last edited by jabram; Dec 02, 2012 at 05:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:44 AM
Multicopter Nut
ThePara's Avatar
Romania, Bucharest
Joined Dec 2011
382 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
I have a feeling I fried a fuse on the board
The output rail fuse is a green thinghie located between the ATMega2560 and the I2C connector.
ThePara is offline Find More Posts by ThePara
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 11:24 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2007
167 Posts
I've had the same issue on my board/boards. The board will still power via the input rail, so that would be solution one to use a ubec and power the board via the input rail. I'm going to attempt to replace the diode which I've narrowed it down to. http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/ap...ource=activity
Part # MBR120VLSFT3G
3rd option would be to remove the diode and solder bridge the two together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
Ok, looks like I have another issue..

I was trying to get the turnigy plush esc's to arm which proved to be more difficult then I expected. I tried everything in the manuals and wiki and nothing worked. I can get the APM led solid red, however no response from escs.

My problem now however, is that while messing around while powered I re plugged the ch 3 throttle cable coming from my apm to the RX and when I did that, all the power went out to the apm board, gps, etc. Now, I can only get the board to turn on when I plug in the usb and if I install a normal battery, nothing works. I have a feeling I fried a fuse on the board since its blocking the esc inputs from powering the rest of the system..
k5beason is online now Find More Posts by k5beason
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:28 PM
Future-proof EVERYTHING
DarkHeli's Avatar
NY
Joined Jul 2008
762 Posts
Thanks everyone, problem fixed.
For a temporary fix, I decided to power from output rails with a turnigy switching bec. I need to make a mouser order soon so I will add the DIODE that burnt out.

ESC becs are disabled.

Now, What would be the procedure to make the turnigy plush motors arm? The typical instructions dont work for manual or automatic configuration. In the mean time, I am going to keep playing around until I get the motors to arm.
DarkHeli is offline Find More Posts by DarkHeli
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:49 PM
Registered User
pavn's Avatar
Czech Republic, Olomouc
Joined Sep 2010
572 Posts
Great! Send us some pictures or movie!

I have also MSComposit Maxi Swift and on Friday I ordered ArduFlyer 533 MHz UAV with CN-06 also with Minim OSD and current sensor. Also I have keychain #16. I am looking forward to do some FPV and UAV flights!

Quote:
Originally Posted by u4eake View Post
I have put the rctimer arduflyer board and CN-06 gps in a mscomposite swift and equipped it with a keychain #16. Programmed it to follow some dirtroads through the field and then I took my dirtbike and tried to follow and overtake it. Though the swift is a relatively slow flyer (about 15m/s or 54Km/h) it's really difficult keep up with it :-)
But I did manage to get myself filmed a few times by my drone, mostly by cheating and taking a shortcut :-).
I'm having loads of fun with the thing!
pavn is offline Find More Posts by pavn
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:43 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,505 Posts
I have a killer Swift 2 (11oz, lots of carbon, ~45mph vertical performance, ~20min flight time), and have also thought of making an FPV rig out of it. I bet AFM would calm it right down and make it manageable for FPV. Can't wait to see some videos fellas!

DH, you should learn how to calibrate esc's manually, and always use it on your multis...

First make sure you have calibrated your radio in MP, and don't touch your endpoints or rates for the rest of the procedure. After calibrating under MP, connect one esc to the throttle output on your rx, and calibrate the esc using the standard procedure for the esc. For Plush's you power up the esc with throttle set to max, wait for the calibration beep, then quickly move to min throttle, wait for the esc to arm, and remove power; the radio signal range is now stored on the esc. Do the same for the rest of the esc's, reconnect everything back to AFM, and they're good to go.

In a nutshell, AFM pays no mind to esc calibration... your control Tx, control Rx, and esc's are the only parts involved with esc calibration. Same goes for all multirotor FC's I'm aware of. The auto calibration routines used in FC's basically attempts to send an untouched rx signal to the esc's; problem is it doesn't work with many esc's (your Plush's, and my simonK Blue series both have stringent timing during bootup, so auto usually doesn't work... says so in the wiki actually). OTOH manual calibration is guaranteed to work on any esc.

So I made a manual calibration wire harness to speed up manual esc calibration for all my multi projects. It is nothing more than an 8-way servo y-harness, which I made using a spare servo cable, a small piece of PCB (3x9 holes), and a 3x8 SIP header (leftover from my AFM kit). I can use it to manually calibrate up to 8esc's at a time.

Kev
Truglodite is offline Find More Posts by Truglodite
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:09 PM
Future-proof EVERYTHING
DarkHeli's Avatar
NY
Joined Jul 2008
762 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
I have a killer Swift 2 (11oz, lots of carbon, ~45mph vertical performance, ~20min flight time), and have also thought of making an FPV rig out of it. I bet AFM would calm it right down and make it manageable for FPV. Can't wait to see some videos fellas!

DH, you should learn how to calibrate esc's manually, and always use it on your multis...

First make sure you have calibrated your radio in MP, and don't touch your endpoints or rates for the rest of the procedure. After calibrating under MP, connect one esc to the throttle output on your rx, and calibrate the esc using the standard procedure for the esc. For Plush's you power up the esc with throttle set to max, wait for the calibration beep, then quickly move to min throttle, wait for the esc to arm, and remove power; the radio signal range is now stored on the esc. Do the same for the rest of the esc's, reconnect everything back to AFM, and they're good to go.

In a nutshell, AFM pays no mind to esc calibration... your control Tx, control Rx, and esc's are the only parts involved with esc calibration. Same goes for all multirotor FC's I'm aware of. The auto calibration routines used in FC's basically attempts to send an untouched rx signal to the esc's; problem is it doesn't work with many esc's (your Plush's, and my simonK Blue series both have stringent timing during bootup, so auto usually doesn't work... says so in the wiki actually). OTOH manual calibration is guaranteed to work on any esc.

So I made a manual calibration wire harness to speed up manual esc calibration for all my multi projects. It is nothing more than an 8-way servo y-harness, which I made using a spare servo cable, a small piece of PCB (3x9 holes), and a 3x8 SIP header (leftover from my AFM kit). I can use it to manually calibrate up to 8esc's at a time.

Kev
I think i'm running out of options here... I tried what you said, I made sure the ESC's store the calibration and they do. I can run each ESC using the RX ch 3 output without a single problem and with full range. I also see in MP that all of the input channels move exactly as they should. The problem lies when I try to control all escs with the APM. It simply does not start the ESC's. I can arm the APM without a single problem. - LED A solid red. LED C gps can have fix or not and still no go.

EDIT: In a guide written fairly recently stated the following: "Once you have calibrated your ESCs, you can test them by putting the APM slider switch in the FLY mode and plugging in your LiPo."


Does the APM 2.5 have a slider switch or something to bridge to turn it to "fly mode"? I thought that was for the earlier APM's only?
DarkHeli is offline Find More Posts by DarkHeli
Last edited by DarkHeli; Dec 02, 2012 at 05:14 PM. Reason: A possible revelation
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold 3DR APM 2.5 + Ublox Gps Zenonic Aircraft - Electric - Multirotor (FS/W) 4 Oct 01, 2012 09:32 AM
Sold 3DR APM 2.5 + Ublox Gps Zenonic Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 0 Sep 28, 2012 10:58 PM
Sold Apm 2.5 and Gps Panzlflyer FPV Equipment (FS/W) 2 Sep 26, 2012 08:30 AM
Sold APM 2.5 with Ublox Gps Panzlflyer Aircraft - Electric - Multirotor (FS/W) 0 Sep 25, 2012 07:03 PM
Discussion APM 2.5 clone - MegaFlight 2.5 ralphwu Multirotor Electronics 1 Sep 24, 2012 01:18 PM