Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 10:57 PM
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United States, NC, Raleigh
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Originally Posted by jabram View Post
Depends on what it is intended for, not that simple.
I'm just trying to keep the interference down when I start on adding Fpv gear. I plan to use it around the UBEC that I will have powering the board.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:00 PM
.... flyin' dirty ....
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United States, IA, Des Moines
Joined Dec 2012
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Face palm !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blight View Post
The headers have plastic stops, best to put them in all the way untill the plastic hits the board. (All enclosures assume you have them soldered this way)
Ok well didnt put my angled header (motor and rx) pins all the way down to where the first angle is and Im regretting it as I got my case today and they are holding the top up.

Is my only option desoldering and redoing both of them? Or should i just trim the case.... (dont want to do either)

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Old Jan 29, 2013, 12:06 AM
Fly allot, Crash allot, next?
United States, CA, Corona
Joined Feb 2006
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For what it's worth:

I would not de-solder, you will be compounding the chance for a mistake. I know about this first hand.

The case is simply a neat option, trim it or save it for a new project. I don't think the board has to have a case. Some guys simply cover the board with foam as some sort of protection.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 12:20 AM
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Joined Feb 2008
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Desolder is very difficult without proper equipment..... Please spend a few bucks and take it to a local Ham Radio Shop...Let them fix the issue... I'm just saying

I Google'd these guys in Des Moines

Millard Electronics
Des Moines Branch
3701 Douglas Avenue
Des Mones, IA 50310
(515) 244-0011
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:49 AM
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France - Maine et Loire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabram View Post
Follow these instructions to load the script into your NEO-6M using u-center
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/wiki/ublox

No need to edit any code.

Maybe the problem is the earlier NEO-6M did not save parameters in EEPROM so they are forgotten once powered down and the battery goes flat.
If my battery is full (i will let my gps powered for 1 or 2 hours to be sure before to test again) , will the configuration stay in neo6 memory ?
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:52 AM
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Joined Oct 2004
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Hi guys,

I read half this thread and it seems to me, that there is a lot of techno-talk going on here?! I wonder how "easy" it is, to get the APM 2.5+ to work?! Do I have to be an electronics freak?! I am new to multicopters, but not new to R/C Helis and R/C in general. So, how hard is it do get an APM to work?!

thanks,

G
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:24 AM
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Oslo, Norway
Joined Feb 2009
584 Posts
[QUOTE=jabram;23961124]The instructions do not mention subtracting 0.3V

Where did you get that idea from ?

Sorry Jabram, but it says so in Mission Planner where you calibrate the Power module.
If you look at the calibrating screenshots on the page http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/Voltage you'll see that two of them contains the text where you are adviced to subtract 0.3V. The last pict on the page dont show this text, but open MP and it's there again(MP 1.2.32)

J
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:53 AM
Still flying
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Oslo, Norway
Joined Feb 2009
584 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by neavissa View Post
Hi guys,

I read half this thread and it seems to me, that there is a lot of techno-talk going on here?! I wonder how "easy" it is, to get the APM 2.5+ to work?! Do I have to be an electronics freak?! I am new to multicopters, but not new to R/C Helis and R/C in general. So, how hard is it do get an APM to work?!

thanks,

G
neavissa
I started the APM race at the start of autumn/winter here in Norway(october) knowing nothing, but having no hurry since it's winter now and very cold(-10 to -20 deg celcius). I'm no electronic freak either, but i think that if you have flown before and configured different boards you'll get a grip of it quite fast. But remeber that this is open source with hundreds of people contributing daily with everything thats possible to program this FC with and the documentation can be a bit difficult to understand. Since you are english speaking that should be no problem.

There are people in here that are very difficult to understand(no offence), but everyone are mostly very helpfull. Jabram and Jumpy07 are very good to explain in a novice matter so read theire posts if you're stucked(you will be).

Else you could download Jumpy07's beginners manual and the original APM manual on DIYdrones.

Here are some links:
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/home?tm=6
http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/...rduCopter?tm=6
This two links are almost alike and in my opinion should be put together.

Here are Jumpy's manual for the rctimer APM 2.5 board:
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=676.0

APM2 Help Manual:
http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/...m2-help-manual

You also have two versions of the APM, one from store.diydrones.com and the Arduflyer one www.rctimer.com which are a little cheaper but are the same board.


J
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramnes View Post
neavissa
I started the APM race at the start of autumn/winter here in Norway(october) knowing nothing, but having no hurry since it's winter now and very cold(-10 to -20 deg celcius). I'm no electronic freak either, but i think that if you have flown before and configured different boards you'll get a grip of it quite fast. But remeber that this is open source with hundreds of people contributing daily with everything thats possible to program this FC with and the documentation can be a bit difficult to understand. Since you are english speaking that should be no problem.

There are people in here that are very difficult to understand(no offence), but everyone are mostly very helpfull. Jabram and Jumpy07 are very good to explain in a novice matter so read theire posts if you're stucked(you will be).

Else you could download Jumpy07's beginners manual and the original APM manual on DIYdrones.

Here are some links:
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/home?tm=6
http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/...rduCopter?tm=6
This two links are almost alike and in my opinion should be put together.

Here are Jumpy's manual for the rctimer APM 2.5 board:
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=676.0

APM2 Help Manual:
http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/...m2-help-manual

You also have two versions of the APM, one from store.diydrones.com and the Arduflyer one www.rctimer.com which are a little cheaper but are the same board.


J
J,

Thanks for the great info and your help! I am gonna have to take a look at the links tomorrow. If u may ask, why the APM and not something else!? Can you name the top 5 systems, money aside! Thanks...

Thanks,

G

I miss the seasons. Born and raised in Germany... the southern Californian sun gets in my nerves.lol
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabram View Post
That is a great plan however the analog pins used ADC12 and ADC13 are only available on headers at the Mystery socket DF13.
You guys are confusing the AttoPilot and 3DR Power Module. The RCTimer Voltage & Current sensor is a clone of the AttoPilot. Check the manual RCTimer provides, it's the actual Attopilot manual. Just follow the guide here:
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/Voltage
"Using the AttoPilot sensor to measure both current and voltage on APM 1 or APM 2" <-- that one

Just to clear up any confusion: The RCTimer Voltage & Current sensor will not provide power to the APM, the 3DR Power Module will. The RCTimer Voltage & Current sensor connects to the regular analog inputs on the side of the APM. The 3DR Power Module connects to the "PM" port on the APM 2.5

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
I ordered one of the RCTimer current sensors. Since it doesn't provide power to the board I see no reason to connect it to the 3DR CS plug. I plan on just connecting the CS voltage and amp pins to the appropriate analog pins and power the APM via a 5v switcher UBEC with J1 not installed. When/if I later add a gimbal I was planning on connecting each servo power to a separate ESC BEC pins...that way nothing (hopefully) should become over burdened.
I like that idea, should work great! Just keep in mind when cutting your wires that your ESC's need to share a common ground. (If you still have both the ground and signal wires to the reciever and just cut the red wire all is fine.) You might get problems if you connect only the ESC signal wire to the reciever and the red and black wires to the servos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudsy View Post
Would it be worthwhile to power the control board (and gps, data link) with a completely separate 2 or 3 cell LiPo? I would use a separate regulator to get the proper voltage. My thoughts are this would prevent any "brown outs" or spikes etc. I am thinking a 500-1000 mAh pack. I have all of my components except the motors and speed controllers ready for Quad number 6. I would power the motors with the main battery pack.

Sudsy
Possible, but not really required. LiPo's have very high discharge current. Even while running your engines they will still hold their normal voltage. Only if the voltage of the LiPo were to drop below the minimum required by your regulator your APM would brown out. And LiPo voltage will only sag that much if you are drawing too much current from them.

On an airplane it could make sense if you power your servo's off the spare battery as well. If the main power system were to fail and the flight battery shorts out, you still have the autopilot and servos powered and you can glide down to a safe landing. But on a quad a failure of a flight battery is an instant crash, so there is no real advantage to using seperate power sources for the APM and motors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyThirty View Post
Is my only option desoldering and redoing both of them? Or should i just trim the case.... (dont want to do either)
Ah too bad that happened, it's why I posted you should put them on flush. You'd have to redo the soldering or modify the case. You can try desoldering it yourself, you'll need a desoldering pump and desoldering braid at least. Use the pump to get most the solder off, then use the braid to get the last bit. Don't overheat the board though, take it slow. Let it cool down, no sense breaking it.

Everyone messes up soldering jobs at one point. if you don't feel comfortable fixing it yourself get a professional to do it for you. It's what I did when I soldered some bridges on a microprocessor like the AtMega 2560 on the APM. I did not have the equipement or skill to fix it without breaking it so I handed it off to someone who did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramnes View Post
If you look at the calibrating screenshots on the page http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/Voltage you'll see that two of them contains the text where you are adviced to subtract 0.3V. The last pict on the page dont show this text, but open MP and it's there again(MP 1.2.32)
You are both right. You can either measure the output of your regulator powering the APM and substract 0.3v(the amount the voltage gets dropped by the protection circuitry) or measure the correct voltage directly by measuring the side of the fuse. This measures the voltage after the voltage has already dropped. Both should give you the same number, in theory.

I say in theory because both me and jabram have measured the voltage drop to be at least 0.6v, not 0.3v. I believe this is a difference between the rctimer ArduFlyer and the original 3DR APM, but we don't agree on this. Anyway, I doubt you'll get the right number by measuring the input voltage of the APM and substracting 0.3v. If you can, measure the voltage at the fuse, and enter that voltage directly without substracting anything. Else you can measure the voltage of any of the input + pins. This should give you the same number as well. Just make sure to not short anything out accidentally! What I did was grab two female to female servo cables(the ones you use to connect your reciever the the apm) and put the positive lead of the voltmeter on the red wire of one of them, and the negatie lead on the black wire of the other.(There's abit of metal accesible on the side of the servo connectors you can use for this)
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:07 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blight View Post
You guys are confusing the AttoPilot and 3DR Power Module. The RCTimer Voltage & Current sensor is a clone of the AttoPilot. Check the manual RCTimer provides, it's the actual Attopilot manual. Just follow the guide here:
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/wiki/Voltage
"Using the AttoPilot sensor to measure both current and voltage on APM 1 or APM 2" <-- that one
Thanks, that's exactly how I was planning on connecting my RCTimer CS.

Quote:
I like that idea, should work great! Just keep in mind when cutting your wires that your ESC's need to share a common ground. (If you still have both the ground and signal wires to the reciever and just cut the red wire all is fine.) You might get problems if you connect only the ESC signal wire to the reciever and the red and black wires to the servos.
On mine (and probably most) ESC servo wires, the ground line is tied to the battery gnd, thus the main battery wire provides the common ground for the system. I will verify before flying when/after I connect any servos.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
On mine (and probably most) ESC servo wires, the ground line is tied to the battery gnd, thus the main battery wire provides the common ground for the system.
Aye, it'll probably only go wrong once you have multiple seperate flight batteries which you're not using in parallel. Still something to think about if you start cutting ground wires. Good to know you're on top of it :-)
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Last edited by Blight; Jan 29, 2013 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Joined Feb 2008
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Australian Floods

Hope all our Oz mates are well and safe with all the flooding...
USA News Stations are showing tragic video of the flooding

http://www.foxnews.com/world/2013/01...4-people-dead/
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:09 AM
Still flying
Ramnes's Avatar
Oslo, Norway
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neavissa View Post
J,

Thanks for the great info and your help! I am gonna have to take a look at the links tomorrow. If u may ask, why the APM and not something else!? Can you name the top 5 systems, money aside! Thanks...

Thanks,

G

I miss the seasons. Born and raised in Germany... the southern Californian sun gets in my nerves.lol
neavissa
Top 5 systems is a bit hard, but i hope there are others in here that can contribute to.
My first FC was the KK board a few years ago, then KK2, then Crius MultiWii V2 which i now shall use as a gimbal controller on a H550 from Hobbyking.

This FC's i've never tried:
NAZA, Wokong, YS-X6 and the little brother YS-X4, very expensive but you might be up and flying faster.

Why i went for the APM is because it has unlimited Waypoints, and have been on the market longer than most other FC's. On NAZA, Wokong and the YS series you have to pay a high price for the waypoints and other gadgets.

I also feel that people in here are more happy now with the latest version 2.9 firmware than ever before, and you can put it in a plane, heli or a rover if you feel like it. My brother has a Copter-X 450 which i will try the board in sometime.

Thats about all i have of information.

If the seasons was as they should be we would have four of them, not only autumn and winter

J
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:23 AM
Radd Graduate '06
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United States, MA, Sudbury
Joined Aug 2006
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There's a new release out 2.9.1

They found a bug in the radio code that was causing uncommanded throttle failsafes.

In a very bad set of circumstances, one flyer had his home point recorded as somewhere hundreds of miles northwest of his actual position. This throttle failsafe bug kicked in, which executed RTL and caused a fly away.

More info HERE

This is only if you have throttle failsafes enabled.

Learned something interesting too as a result of that fly away and from another poster.

Panic button = Stabilize not RTL
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