I can yell back as good as the next guy, except David closed the thread, sent me a PM and closed that as well so I could not respond. I figured there was no point in any further posts as he ensured I could not get any OP boards to fly by cancelling all my kickstarter orders, by the way if you read the closed thread, it is NOT the whole story, I replied to a flame post which was edited before David went berserk, he incorrectly thought I was ranting all by myself, I made the mistake of not quoting what I was replying to which vanished when the poster edited his original FLAME post.

I am keen to read about your impressions of ArduFlyer.

I am almost too scared to post this information as I fear someone will drown their barometer in hot glue

Do not get any hot glue onto the barometer

All the barometers used in flight controllers are sensitive to prop wash. They are far more sensitive to light.

We need to prevent light as well as prop wash from reaching the Barometer.

Blue arrow points to BMP085 barometer, do not allow any glue or dirt of any kind into that small hole.


You can test it for yourself before you follow the information in this post

While observing the Altitude and VSI gauge in Mission Planner shine a decent strong torch straight onto the barometer and observe how Altitude and the VSI gauge go absolutely crazy



The recommended way to exclude prop wash is to use open foam.

I tried, all sorts of open foam in various colors and found it very difficult to exclude light affecting the barometer, if I put a piece of open foam up to the light I can see it lets a lot of light through, even dark grey open foam.

My wife is an ED nurse and she got some black shinny open foam for me which is discarded packing which protects glass ampules.used in a hospital Emergency Department. This black shinny open foam excludes all light!



I wish there was a brand name for the black foam I could recommend but there isn't, look for some black shiny open foam, hold it up to the light and if you can see light getting through it is NOT suitable. I f in doubt test a piece by placing it over the barometer and test with a bright light.

Initially I used a large piece held in place with a cable tie. ArduFlyer depicted here


Then I discovered that even a thin piece of this material could exclude all light from the barometer.

I cut a small thin piece of the foam, also cut a piece of clear thickish plastic from a blister pack, I sanded the underside of the clear plastic so hot glue would stick to it, and attached it in place using hot glue carefully making sure NOT TO GET ANY HOT GLUE ONTO THE BAROMETER.

Now if I repeat the initial test with the strong light altitude and VSI do not go crazy, instead they move slowly, normally. Do not expect readings to be absolutely steady, that simply won't happen. Just no crazy huge jumps as per initial testing with no foam.

The reason why this is important is that if you are relying on the Barometer for altitude hold and your frame drifts in and out of bright sunlight shinning straight onto the barometer, the barometer is not going to work very well at all, altitude hold will try really hard to follow the wild barometer swings. This sensitivity to light occurs with ALL barometers currently used on ALL the different Flight controllers not just with HK Mega.





The finished article with Arduflyer depicted


The finished article with AIO PRO V1.0 depicted


Black shinny open foam compared to Grey open foam

In a black cardboard frame


With a fluorescent light behind them

Originally Posted by jabram

The yaw, is that during lift off or all the time ?

Hi. Its all the time. Last night i did another testflight with higher P on yaw. It ended up in a broken motor arm (Got Spares)

when i hold it in my hand it levels out nicely, but when i yaw it manually its like there is little or no resistance to push it back in place.

I know my connections are correct as i am very familiar with Mikrokopter and have built atleast 30 multis over the past 2 years. But mwii is totally new to me, so i now im going wrong somewhere

Originally Posted by fpv-tor

Hi. Its all the time. Last night i did another testflight with higher P on yaw. It ended up in a broken motor arm (Got Spares)

when i hold it in my hand it levels out nicely, but when i yaw it manually its like there is little or no resistance to push it back in place.

I know my connections are correct as i am very familiar with Mikrokopter and have built atleast 30 multis over the past 2 years. But mwii is totally new to me, so i now im going wrong somewhere

Ask on the Mwii forum for HK Mega
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1726790

I have not experienced that, maybe someone on the Mwii forum has experienced it and solved it.

Originally Posted by fpv-tor

Hi. Its all the time. Last night i did another testflight with higher P on yaw. It ended up in a broken motor arm (Got Spares)

when i hold it in my hand it levels out nicely, but when i yaw it manually its like there is little or no resistance to push it back in place.

I know my connections are correct as i am very familiar with Mikrokopter and have built atleast 30 multis over the past 2 years. But mwii is totally new to me, so i now im going wrong somewhere

I'm not an expert on Mwii at all...actually no experience at all....but I do have a lot of experience with Gyro and Acel Bias...We had some problem gyros on OP CC boards last year that drove a bunch of people nuts for a while....turned out to be bad gyros from Invensense....but....we also had some flat out, piss poor solder jobs too....

with the props off and armed...watching the Horizontal Horizon in the MP........ Throttle up to about 40%,,,,,,, using your finger apply some pressure to the gyro chip(s) and then the Accel chip(s)...... see if you get any abnormal movement on the gauge....OP has "Scopes" so we can see this much better....

Your problem is also been known to happen from poor gyro and accel bias ratios but I do not know enough to help you make those adjustments on your board. Might be something to look at.....

Also check the temp of your esc's after flight and make sure you do not have one that is warmer than the rest by 10 degrees or more....just a few thoughts

Thanx for all your inputs. I will test and not rest until this quad is perfect

Quick question

What is the J1 jumper for ?

My guess is that this can power on/off the USB adapter in case I want to use the UART0 ... do I guess good ?

PS: Sorry if this has been asked tons of time ... I made a quick search on J1 and jumper, and I did not find nothing that did help me.

PPS: I just got my board today ... why the hell I need to reset the GPS unit ? It is a normal NMEA 115k ... should work with everything

PPPS: Going to upgrade to MegaPirate ASAP ... so far just check that board is perfectly OK with stock firmware ...

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

Quick question

What is the J1 jumper for ?

My guess is that this can power on/off the USB adapter in case I want to use the UART0 ... do I guess good ?

I assume you mean J1 on the the Hobby King MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module ?

Why guess ? The headers on the board are documented. Hobby King product page MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...PS_Module.html
Scroll down to "Files" Tab and download the detailed documentation

PS: Sorry if this has been asked tons of time ... I made a quick search on J1 and jumper, and I did not find nothing that did help me.

J1 function is described in the documentation as Short to ENABLE USB software update

PPS: I just got my board today ... why the hell I need to reset the GPS unit ? It is a normal NMEA 115k ... should work with everything

Which board did you get today? which GPS ?.

PPPS: Going to upgrade to MegaPirate ASAP ... so far just check that board is perfectly OK with stock firmware ...[

Stock firmware for Hobby King MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module is Multiwii, the thread for running Multiwwi on that board is here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1726790

This thread is about loading and running MP NG firmware on the Hobby King MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module

is the HK version delivered with different kinds of gps?
Mine has no name or no stickers on it, but the good thing is that i get 9 sats inside my living room Thats the same as i get with my MK with the gps shield on it.

Good Evening. First I want to say a big thanks for this fantastic thread. I would have definitely failed to set up my FC to use it with PirateNG without it.
Lots of good stuff in here

I have as well this board bought at HK. I did follow all the instructions from page one in this thread.

I was successful, as far as it comes to seeing all the input datas from the onboard sensors (altitude, compass, gyros) even the GPS works fine and gives me multiple satellites even from within my house.

I did within Mission Planner as well calibrate my TX (Futaba FF10). All channels seem to work fine and in the correct direction.

What I fail to do is however to get the quadcopter up and running. When I connect my battery to my quad the status LED flashes, and a few other LED's on the board.
Moving the throttle stick to full down left/right did not do any good
Moving Throttle to the lower right corner did the trick on my old cheap HK FlightController.

Anyone got an idea how to actually arm this Flightcontroller ? Documentation on the HK website did not get me any further.

Any help/hint would be greatly appreciated

Kind regards

Timo

Originally Posted by fpv-tor

is the HK version delivered with different kinds of gps?
Mine has no name or no stickers on it, but the good thing is that i get 9 sats inside my living room Thats the same as i get with my MK with the gps shield on it.

its the same gps, just no sticker. i received the same thing

Originally Posted by JimJones

Good Evening. First I want to say a big thanks for this fantastic thread. I would have definitely failed to set up my FC to use it with PirateNG without it.
Lots of good stuff in here

I have as well this board bought at HK. I did follow all the instructions from page one in this thread.

I was successful, as far as it comes to seeing all the input datas from the onboard sensors (altitude, compass, gyros) even the GPS works fine and gives me multiple satellites even from within my house.

I did within Mission Planner as well calibrate my TX (Futaba FF10). All channels seem to work fine and in the correct direction.

What I fail to do is however to get the quadcopter up and running. When I connect my battery to my quad the status LED flashes, and a few other LED's on the board.
Moving the throttle stick to full down left/right did not do any good
Moving Throttle to the lower right corner did the trick on my old cheap HK FlightController.

Anyone got an idea how to actually arm this Flightcontroller ? Documentation on the HK website did not get me any further.

Any help/hint would be greatly appreciated

Kind regards

Timo

Ditto on everything you just said.

I am using a Turnigy 9x with er9x firmware (frsky module) and mine arms fine by holding the throttle down and to the right for a few seconds. It takes it a couple more seconds before the motors spin up.

Originally Posted by JimJones

...Anyone got an idea how to actually arm this Flightcontroller ? Documentation on the HK website did not get me any further....

Originally Posted by oddcopter

Ditto on everything you just said.

I am using a Turnigy 9x with er9x firmware (frsky module) and mine arms fine by holding the throttle down and to the right for a few seconds. It takes it a couple more seconds before the motors spin up.

Like oddcopter said, you need to hold thr. down + right yaw for longer than you think.
LED 1 will start flashing pretty fast, and a moment later continue with slow flashing. A few seconds after that, you're good to go. (Hopefully)

Hint 1: Holding arm for ~20 seconds will put the controller in dynamic level trim. That means that you take off, fly the copter level for ~25 seconds, land, dis-arm, and presto, calibrated level. Only do that in wind-free conditions.

Hint 2: Holding dis-arm for ~20 seconds will do a static level calibration. To be done with the copter on a level surface. That's the same function as under "Arducopter level" in the mission planner.

Safe (auto)Landings
/J

Originally Posted by TheFernMan

its the same gps, just no sticker. i received the same thing

Is it an MTK3329 ? do you happen to know what baudrate and update rate it came with ?

No sticker, do you mean it has no writing at all on the GPS module, this is what mine looks like, out of the first batch.

Here is what mine looks like: