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Old Oct 14, 2012, 08:48 AM
Registered User
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Sep 2012
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Question
Can this motor be used in an airplane?

Ive got this Dynamite .35 Liquid cooled nitro motor. Ive got another head to replace the water cooling head that is currently on the motor, but am still not sure if the the motor can be used in an airplane. Yes I am pretty new at this so your input would be appreciated.

Pic of motor attached
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 03:12 PM
Airplane Gearhead
Central N.Y.
Joined Jan 2005
1,144 Posts
Hi....are you sure it is a .35 (as in .35 cubic inch) or a 3.5cc? It looks like the engine out of the Horizon Hydroplane perhaps, but I'm not sure?

Here is a thread from a couple weeks ago...although your engine is of different size, some of the info can still apply. (boat and car engines generally have different timing than "Sport" airplane engines)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1745457

You might find a prop driver from another engine that will work with a tapered (Brass) split collet. And you might find a "bump start" car engine backplate...but I'm not sure exactly where to find them yet. (perhaps Horizon has a parts list you could check out?)
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 04:16 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Sep 2006
5,759 Posts
It is a Dynamite .32 as used in some RTR boats kits a few years ago:
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN6450
Could be used for a plane if you can find a prop driver&collet that fit its shaft. It is just an average sport engine so might not be worth the trouble and expense as you could just get an ASP from HK and sell this one as a marine engine:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ow_Engine.html
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:11 PM
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Sorry, I stand corrected. It is a .32 & not a .35.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Helps to read the label, :-)
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:30 PM
Airplane Gearhead
Central N.Y.
Joined Jan 2005
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Hey...there ya go...
The pic on the box cover has the prop driver you want...if you decide to go through with converting it.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Then I've got what I need I cause the silver fitting you're referring to on the box (Prop Driver) come with the motor.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:46 PM
Airplane Gearhead
Central N.Y.
Joined Jan 2005
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O.K....so, you are just about all set.

The pull start backplate might cause an air leak issue, if not now, eventually...but you might get some testing done before deciding to continue.
The standard, "bump box" (r/c car starter box) style backplate (also called the non pull start backplate) is what I would use if I were gonna undertake something like this.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Check!
Got that too.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:20 PM
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anything else I need to know or have
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 07:01 AM
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I wonder if there are aby instructions in that box or maybe online .... that would explatn the conversion procedure?
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:05 AM
Airplane Gearhead
Central N.Y.
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodStuff View Post
anything else I need to know or have


Prop selection...fuel and plugs...
If the engine has never been run, it will need to be broken-in....
A "typical" airplane engine of equivalent displacement would use a range of props from around 9x5, 9x6, 10x4 or maybe 10x5...
I would suggest a slightly smaller (less load on engine) prop of maybe 8x6 to get started, and go from there after getting a few tanks thru it. Fuel tank of approx. 6 ounces...fuel that is blended more like airplane fuel vs. car fuel...i.e. more oil content, and somewhere around 10 to 15% nitro. The plug that is in it should be O.K. for starters...but you might need a couple spares.

It looks like a side exhaust...correct? You will also need a muffler...the muffler will have a nipple on it to connect the fuel tank vent line to....that will slightly pressurize the tank, and make for more reliable running.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:27 PM
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OK
Motor - check
Prop Driver - check
Muffler - check (the one seen in the att pic is only temp)

Then as you can see in att pics at rear of motor where pull starter would have been, this is where Im going to be needing the "Bump Box" that "TopProp" mentioned. This is the one box that I have unchecked!

Thought I did, but thought wrong....

Please explain or elaborate on this bump box setup as I am completely stumped.
Thanx again for your replies. Appreciated.
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Last edited by GoodStuff; Oct 17, 2012 at 02:50 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proptop View Post
Prop selection...fuel and plugs...
If the engine has never been run, it will need to be broken-in....
Fuel & Plugs are sorted. Got a few spare plugs. Understand that the breaking in posses can be heavy on plugs so am prepared.

Would it be OK though use a flywheel instead of a prop for the breaking in process?
Tue motor is bench mounted for breaking in. I'm just a little unsure about the bump box & how to go about it. How it works etc. Seems to blow some fuel out the
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Last edited by GoodStuff; Oct 17, 2012 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:55 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
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Joined Sep 2006
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You must use a prop (as a load and for cooling)as a flywheel would quickly damage the conrod if run full rpm! ABC engines don't really requires breaking-in and must not be run too cold. If fuel blow out of the back side, there is a leak and the engine will probably won't run at all.
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