Ive got this Dynamite .35 Liquid cooled nitro motor. Ive got another head to replace the water cooling head that is currently on the motor, but am still not sure if the the motor can be used in an airplane. Yes I am pretty new at this so your input would be appreciated.

Pic of motor attached

Hi....are you sure it is a .35 (as in .35 cubic inch) or a 3.5cc? It looks like the engine out of the Horizon Hydroplane perhaps, but I'm not sure?

Here is a thread from a couple weeks ago...although your engine is of different size, some of the info can still apply. (boat and car engines generally have different timing than "Sport" airplane engines)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1745457

You might find a prop driver from another engine that will work with a tapered (Brass) split collet. And you might find a "bump start" car engine backplate...but I'm not sure exactly where to find them yet. (perhaps Horizon has a parts list you could check out?)

It is a Dynamite .32 as used in some RTR boats kits a few years ago:
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN6450
Could be used for a plane if you can find a prop driver&collet that fit its shaft. It is just an average sport engine so might not be worth the trouble and expense as you could just get an ASP from HK and sell this one as a marine engine:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ow_Engine.html

Sorry, I stand corrected. It is a .32 & not a .35.

Helps to read the label, :-)

Hey...there ya go...
The pic on the box cover has the prop driver you want...if you decide to go through with converting it.

Then I've got what I need I cause the silver fitting you're referring to on the box (Prop Driver) come with the motor.

O.K....so, you are just about all set.

The pull start backplate might cause an air leak issue, if not now, eventually...but you might get some testing done before deciding to continue.
The standard, "bump box" (r/c car starter box) style backplate (also called the non pull start backplate) is what I would use if I were gonna undertake something like this.

Check!
Got that too.

anything else I need to know or have

I wonder if there are aby instructions in that box or maybe online .... that would explatn the conversion procedure?

Originally Posted by GoodStuff

anything else I need to know or have

Prop selection...fuel and plugs...
If the engine has never been run, it will need to be broken-in....
A "typical" airplane engine of equivalent displacement would use a range of props from around 9x5, 9x6, 10x4 or maybe 10x5...
I would suggest a slightly smaller (less load on engine) prop of maybe 8x6 to get started, and go from there after getting a few tanks thru it. Fuel tank of approx. 6 ounces...fuel that is blended more like airplane fuel vs. car fuel...i.e. more oil content, and somewhere around 10 to 15% nitro. The plug that is in it should be O.K. for starters...but you might need a couple spares.

It looks like a side exhaust...correct? You will also need a muffler...the muffler will have a nipple on it to connect the fuel tank vent line to....that will slightly pressurize the tank, and make for more reliable running.

OK
Motor - check
Prop Driver - check
Muffler - check (the one seen in the att pic is only temp)

Then as you can see in att pics at rear of motor where pull starter would have been, this is where Im going to be needing the "Bump Box" that "TopProp" mentioned. This is the one box that I have unchecked!

Thought I did, but thought wrong....

Please explain or elaborate on this bump box setup as I am completely stumped.
Thanx again for your replies. Appreciated.

Originally Posted by proptop

Prop selection...fuel and plugs...
If the engine has never been run, it will need to be broken-in....

Fuel & Plugs are sorted. Got a few spare plugs. Understand that the breaking in posses can be heavy on plugs so am prepared.

Would it be OK though use a flywheel instead of a prop for the breaking in process?
Tue motor is bench mounted for breaking in. I'm just a little unsure about the bump box & how to go about it. How it works etc. Seems to blow some fuel out the

You must use a prop (as a load and for cooling)as a flywheel would quickly damage the conrod if run full rpm! ABC engines don't really requires breaking-in and must not be run too cold. If fuel blow out of the back side, there is a leak and the engine will probably won't run at all.