|Oct 13, 2012, 02:44 AM|
Double Horse 9116 Troubleshooting
Double Horse 9116
Compiled from contributions by owners of the DH9116 RC helicopter and members of RC Groups Discussion Forums via the
“Double horse 9116 Heli Thread" and
"The new Double Horse 9116 Heli Thread"
Dedicated to Mick, aka „Stormforce“, who did a fantastic job with his
“Double Horse 9116 Technical Manual”, downloadable at http://customers.skymesh.net.au/~mat...ech_manual.pdf
Thanks a bunch, Mick, you did a remarkable job tutoring new RC-pilots like me and making them understand their 9116 MUCH better!
Rest in Peace, mate!
Let’s get started:
You didn't listen to others or asked nobody before,
got blinded by advertisements and well spoken promises and
finally had been badly misled by the hobby-grade-look of this bird?
So you got yourself a 9116, dialed it in, flew it
encountered problems or did a crash and broke something.
As a beginner you have no clue where to begin.
Maybe here’s something to solve it.
For all problems and solutions listed below it is required the heli was or is dialed in according to the "Double Horse 9116 Technical Manual" (link above)
If you can’t find anything regarding your problem, feel free to ask at
"The new Double Horse 9116 Heli Thread"
Frequently Occuring Damages
TX doesn't bind
You switched the heli on, the TX also, the beeping stopped but the red LED still is flashing instead of going solid?
TX still doesn't bindWhen binding, make sure the throttle trim is set to neutral or it's lowest point and the throttle stick is at it's lowest point. Switch the tx off, plug in the battery, but don't switch it on. Then hold the tx in your left hand (assuming it's in mode 2) and hold the throttle down with your thumb, switch on the tx, then before it starts beeping, switch on the heli and quickly place it on a level surface, it should be bound when you hear the servo's flutter into life and align themselves with the settings in the tx programming.
Tried everything above. Still nothing. PCB light flashes fast then slow and stays slow with no bind. Occuring sometimes after a hard crash or even as a DOA.Motors shut down when lift off?1. Have a closer look on the soldered connection bridge between main PCB and the Antenna PCB. In the pic it's the black block on lower right.
If you smoothly increase throttle from zero the motors shut down? Then the reason is a too sensitive "motor overload protection system" - short: MOPS.
The Heli doesn't stop turning clockwise, even with all trim applied with buttons1. Try bumping your throttle up quickly to around 30-50% to lift off, this bird needs no slow increase of throttle like a big CP heli.
Your tail is overpowering the main motor's forces.The Heli doesn't stop turning counter-clockwise, even with all trim applied with buttons
You encounter a lack of tail authority when trying to do a FFF banked right turn (clockwise). The motor can barely manage pushing the tail around. Your tail isn't even able to hold at all?Servo Horn bends and slides up the pushrod
So your servo horns bend and slide up the pushrod? It mostly occurs on aileron servo (right hand side, looking from the tail).
Broken main shaft # 9116-06First reheat the bent servo horn and straighten it (it will last until you get some spares).
Crashed and broke one or both pins of the main shaft? No spare part?
Bad vibrationsShorten the hollow pipe to 73mm (cut from upper side!), then
After a crash you get bad vibrations spooling up, no visible damages?Check following parts:
Replacing the tail
Take off the canopy and unplug the wires for the tail motor and the tail light from PCB (tail motor cable is blue/white, tail light cable is red/black)Replacing the main motor
Take off the canopy, unclip the servo linkages on the swashplate (A), undo the retaining screw in the main gear (B), remove the complete rotor head assembly together with the hollow pipe and the main gear (C). Undo the 3 screws on each side on the base of the body (D) and remove the 2 supporting bars (E). Unclip the floor and remove it by expanding the body frame slightly.Improvements
Some improvements you can do to correct some flaws in construction.
It is always a good idea to balance the main blades. Reduces vibrations and wear and tear on bearings.Canopy Spacer
To fix the left servo horn touching the canopy, when the servo is at full throw forward.
It makes sense to patch some adhesive tape on a new new canopy where the flybar would hit it. I use a clear, glass-fibre reinforced tape for it - near to invisible and bears some beating from the flybar. It also prevents the flybar crashing through the canopy and smashing the PCB (the gyro especially).Servo Move Mod
To fix the left servo horn touching the canopy, when the servo is at full throw forward, to fix the slide of servo horn up the pushrod and also to fix the excessive outward flexing of the servo arm.
Tail Boom BumperYou'll find the instruction to do it in the tech-manual.
The tail boom denting is caused by the flybar striking it. You will suffer these strikes when you're flying the bird too hard (sudden full stick movements in opposite directions) or crash with throttle applied.
Main Blade Grip Washers
Makes better, direct steering performance, blades don’t wobble around any more but are still movable in the grip.
Low Voltage Buzzer
To get a decent warning before your battery runs down while your bird is 50 feet in the air and starts plunging towards the soil.
MOPS Bypass Mod
As stated above it prevents the sudden shut down of motors when throttling up. These blackouts occure sometimes in the air when you suddenly apply full throttle, too. The problem is reduced and passes over time as the motor got run in. You may also first break your new motor in before thinking of a bypass.
Terms: What the hell are you talking about?
Movements and terms:The heli leans to the right when hovering
The heli leans to the right while hovering more or less motionless in the air - that's caused by the head-construction and pure physics. Don't try to compensate with weight on the left skid etc, this reduces only flight time and maxes tear n' wear.My range is less than the advertised 100m
100m range is reached only at the very best conditions, without any other 2.4 GHz noise, no obstacles etc. In reality you'll get 50-70m. To enhance reception do not direct the antenna to the bird, a 90° angle to the bird and parallel to ground would be best.What batteries I should buy for upgrade?
Any 7.4V 2S 800 - 900 mAH 20C Lipo Battery with JST connector and JST-XH balancing plug with following dimensions will fit without modifications: 58 x 30 x 15mm, max weight 50gr.My well balanced 9116 starts to spin slightly clockwise as the battery goes down.
It's normal that you have to retrim the rudder while flying when the batterie goes down. That's what the trim buttons are for.I can't save my settings like subtrims or throttle curves on the TX.
Press MENU for 2 seconds - until the battery voltage is back on screen. All changes you do with the trim buttons are lost when switching the RX off.The servos jitter when powered up
The servos should make a sudden short flutter or jitter on power up, as they may have moved when you powered down or the arms may have dropped during storage, so when you power up, they settle back to the position the tx has them set to by the user programming. However, if a servo make's a constant noise or the arms constantly move like they are vibrating (jitter) it is from an over excited step motor within the servo, which usually means the servo motor is on it's way out.How to check functionability of gyro?
How to balance the heli?
To balance the heli, tie some string or sewing thread to the top of the main shaft above the blades and suspend the heli by the string. If the heli is bias one way or another, you must adjust the heli weight so it hangs level. This may require you to shift the position of the battery, or even add weight to the top of the battery or inside the nose of the canopy. Once the heli is balanced, you can step on to the swash-levelling procedure in Stormforce's Tech-Manual.My main/tail motor doesn't last long
These motors are cheap, brushed and driven far beyond their construction limits. So don't expect them to last more than 50 flights in general. Sometimes even bad motors are sold that last for only 25 flights. Long hovering sessions will stress your motors even more, ending in even less flights per motor. They also burn out quick if are stalled throttled up. It is always a good idea to stock up 2 main motors and 3 tail assemblies, just in case. You may get more flights out of them when breaking every new motor in.How to break a new motor in? And why?
When brushes are new, they do not completely touch the commutator. They wear into it, eventually getting a mirror-like finish over the complete contact surface. If you run these already overstressed motors under full power and load before the brushes were fully seated, the brushes got way too hot, and burn out the lubrication embedded within them. The edges of the brush keep breaking off, are uneven and jagged.
|Oct 20, 2012, 12:24 PM|
Direct Drive Mod & MOPS Bypass Caution
There are many good tips & how to's on this particular site for the DH-9116. There is one in particular that I'd like everyone who plans on modding the Main/Tail Motor to be aware of. I'll state right up front that as I do not have access to the electrical drawings/schematics my determinations is strictly based on user experience.
As most already know the motors on this model don't last very long usually not more than 2-weeks or so with three flights daily.(this has been my experience)
Not long ago I read a post where it was suggested by a user to bypass the MOPS circuit which is a large silicon wire(red) loop. This loop absorbs heat as you fly thus lessening a motor over heat condition. What I don't know for sure but now assume is that this shunt protects Both Motors. The reason for my conclusion is that since shunting this circuit I have gone thru 2 main motors, one stock & one N-60 direct drive motor in like about a week. The new N-60 in just one day! Using an IR Thermometer this tail motor reached 176ºF & that after sitting just several minutes. The resistance of a new unit measures just 1ohm and after the nuclear event 2.6 ohms. The motor is toast & has to be replaced.
As I was replacing it I realized that this bypass may be the reason for the failures so I removed it & now the tail motor gets very warm but nowhere near the 2ndº burn temps it once did. I'm on my last stock motor so I will have to wait to confirm this with the new 180-a motor but I'm confident the brushes will last a great deal longer. The reason for the MOPS Bypass is that there's an assumption that not having it creates the in flight momentary motor cut out however my observation has Not seen that disappear at all so for me this is not the answer to that anomaly. I must say that the new tail motor is such an improvement to how this Heli fly's & I can't wait till I receive the 180-a main motor. This is a toy class heli for sure buts its so much fun to fly.....and that after all is what its all about.
|Oct 20, 2012, 09:29 PM|
|Oct 21, 2012, 08:43 AM|
Servo Connecting Rod mod
The simplest way I've found to keep the servo up from sliding up the connecting rod is not really a mod but just a simple swap so that the connecting rod is now on the outside of the servo arm in relation to the mainframe. I believe it also minimizes friction against the canopy and the chances of hanging up against it. There are no bends or angles to hang up, just a straight rod sliding against the canopy.
|Oct 21, 2012, 05:50 PM|
|Oct 21, 2012, 06:46 PM|
Low Voltage Buzzer
Of all the things I've done so far I think the smartest one is the addition of a Voltage Display/Low Voltage Buzzer. It weights next to nothing & will without a doubt save your batteries if listen to it. This particular one has 2 Super Loud Piezo Buzzers that will get your attention. I personally set mine to 3.70 V which gives me plenty of time to set-r down safely. It will also read each individual cell so when one starts to weaken you'll know right away. I highly recommend it.
|Nov 01, 2012, 03:33 PM|
|Nov 11, 2012, 06:03 AM|
Low voltage warning buzzer and light
|Nov 18, 2012, 11:52 AM|
|Jan 06, 2013, 07:56 AM|
Joined Jan 2013
hello, so im new to all of this but im catching on pretty quick. so far only problem i have is tx , when i want to roll to the right the heli does nothing. can someone tell me what i need to do please. i've read most all the posts on 9116 but have not found a fix. thxs curlyrocks
|Jan 06, 2013, 12:15 PM|
Was it DOA? Or worked it until now/crash/etc?
Further questions/please ask as written above
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Question||double horse 9116 need help with||EMCycle||Beginner Training Area (Heli-Electric)||14||Jan 10, 2013 04:05 PM|
|Question||Turnigy 9x and Double Horse 9116 rudder problem||Doc Monty||Beginner Training Area (Heli-Electric)||3||May 16, 2012 10:44 PM|
|Question||Starting with a new Double Horse 9116||Scotticism101||Beginner Training Area (Heli-Electric)||3||May 15, 2012 01:36 PM|
|Help!||Double Horse 9116||lordpaine||Beginner Training Area (Heli-Electric)||7||May 12, 2012 03:31 PM|
|Discussion||9116 Double Horse||Daza1964||Beginner Training Area (Heli-Electric)||1||Mar 26, 2012 09:22 AM|