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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Philippines, Calabarzon, San Pedro
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Will this work as an insulator?

After a recent experience of the motor getting so hot it the frame actually melted



I was constantly worried about my new frame meeting the same fate, it's already starting to warp. So i thought about getting larger washers to atleast spread the weight, but i couldn't find one small enough. Then i thought about paper washers, but figured they wouldn't be rigid enough to keep the plastic from buckling. Then i thought that the screws are going to get hot no matter what, why don't i just keep the heat away from the plastic.



So i got a box cutter made some small squares, then got my lighter and poked a hot needle through them to make the holes.



This should keep the screws from concentrating both heat and pressure in such a small area. The question is, do you guy think this will work?

I don't mind getting another frame, but i was expecting to change them after a few dozen hard landings.


PS: Excuse me, i accidentally touched the motor just now and i think i'm getting a blister.
PPS: Yeah, the skin's raising, this thing's really hot!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:35 AM
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For similar circumstances, I made a mounting plate from a piece of flat CF. It fit over the end of the motor with holes for the pinion and mounting screws. It spreads the load better. It may require some shaping to fit the area it will be used in, so Dremel tools are needed.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:40 AM
How high does it go?..duh
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I'd say 'no' as its plastic, and low melting point plastic that is supposed to melt so it can form the packets its made from. Perhaps get some PCB board material (glass fiber) and make a plate up, think about getting a heat sink for the motor, and perhaps checking the motor temp before flying one battery directly after another.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:02 AM
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That amount of heat seems excessive. I would be interested in learning why.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigs dont fly View Post
I'd say 'no' as its plastic, and low melting point plastic that is supposed to melt so it can form the packets its made from. Perhaps get some PCB board material (glass fiber) and make a plate up, think about getting a heat sink for the motor, and perhaps checking the motor temp before flying one battery directly after another.
I can probably file one out of old circuitboards, but it's too thick.

And no, i don't even fly for more than a couple of minutes at a time now, much less two batteries. Just fly three or four circuits around the room, land, unplug, wait several minutes before flying again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
That amount of heat seems excessive. I would be interested in learning why.
I'd also like to know. As you can tell, the teeth aren't pressed right up against the main gear so there shouldn't be any strain on the motor.

Maybe next time i'll check if it can actually light a match after a quick flight. I don't have carbon fiber sheets, nor do i know where to get one. But i think i may be able to use a metal snipper and cut some sheets off old milk can lids.

I'm actually considering cutting my losses, selling this, and getting a MasterCP instead. Atleast that one has a vented motor.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:04 AM
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You may just need a new motor, or have faulty connections; causing arcing. It looks like a Walkera mini CP or Genius, which really needs a brushless motor.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:35 AM
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I do have a brushless motor for it actually (A C05m). But i've burned out my second ESC. The walkera ESC apparently can't even pull enough power from the battery to start the motor so you need to give it a push. Which means you have the ESC beeping for a couple of seconds while you manually start the rotor spinning. I've given up on it (If there's anybody in the Philippines near Alabang or Laguna, you're welcome to buy the motor, just get an ESC that pulls more than 10a). I could have bought six brushed motors for the price of the brushless kit.
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