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Old Nov 30, 2012, 11:08 AM
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i suggest you try these mini bungee cords. use pliars to remove the metal clips, fit to size, then re-clamp the metal clips down to secure. a piece of heat shrink around the clips area will help prevent scuffing.







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Old Nov 30, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mewert View Post
Just got the announcement on this today. It looks like a carbon copy of the DP Super Cub. Maybe the parts will interchange. Not too bad on the price either.
Check it out.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...age1-_-HAN4540
This one has a little more detail than the DPM Super Cub, one of which I own, but it also costs more. First, it's got an interior, and second, the aileron control rods exit the wing at the proper location. Last I saw, DPM SC after market interiors were going for around $100. BTW, I'm thinking of ripping all the Ultracote off my DPM Super Cub and replacing it with fabric, painted similar to the Hangar 9 model. I'm getting tired of yellow.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:03 PM
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Yep-I like the wing detail,with the dummy pushrod in the top of the wing,with the blister fairing. The Flap/Aileron covers are works of art,with the reverse reinforcement..
I am NOT happy with the three sizes of precut servo openings,though. JR fits the wings,Futaba fits the fuse,and I have no idea what those other things are.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 07:46 PM
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Maidened today

Hi,

Just maidened mine today! It took one click of right aileron trim. The recommended elevator setting for the flaps is right on. I made 2 landings; one with no flaps and one full flaps. This plane lands like a feather. Roll rate is very slow; I wont be flying IMAC with it, but it flys very well and is easy to land. I powered it with a DLE 30 and it weighs 12 lbs 10 ounces. I checked this weight twice as the advertised weight is 14#s plus. I put my batteries on trays that fit along side the fuel tank and I did not have to add any nose weight to make it balance. The CG came out at 4 from the leading edge.

It does have some drumming/vibration noise in flight and Im tightening up everything to reduce this vibration noise. Over all I am very pleased with the kit and the flying qualities.

Dave
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:17 PM
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We hope to static display ours at the annual Christmas party Fly-in at Massey,Md. Sunday,and fly it on Tuesday.

Congrats on your maiden.....Thanks for the report.

We're going glow-won't hear any drumming,prolly.lol.

Would you suggest more Aileron throw ? I don't want to roll it,but if it needs more throw,we can do that.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Aileron Throw

I would recommend all the aileron throw you can physically get for high rates. In other words as much throw as you can get without stalling the servo. You can always reduce the throws on low rates. I found I can get quite a bit more up aileron without stalling the servo and I am adjusting to get all the throw I can.

Most of my vibration is coming from the landing gear. I have tightened it up as much as I can. Also, where the dummy aileron linkage goes into the top of the wing, I recommend putting a rubber grommet there for the dummy linkage to go into. I did this as I thought the metal rod would rattle badly just inserted into the hole in the wood.

This is a very easy plane to fly and landings and roll outs are gentle. I am using the rubber bands on the bungee until someone comes up with something better. The way this lands you won't be putting any stress on the bungee unless you fly off grass or a rough field.

Best of luck,
Dave
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Sunday was our Christmas Party...We had the Super cub on static display.

...Fine looking airplane..Well received

Placing the model in Full scale surroundings works.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 12:20 PM
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It's a looker!!
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Rudder cables

Fabricating the rudder cables is an art..Experience has taught me well,so I'll share with anyone having difficulties.
Take one of the brass sleeves,and with a pair of pliers,gently, GENTLY squeeze it,until it just becomes deformed from round..
Holding the end of the cable in your hand,slide the sleeve onto the cable.Install the formed 'eye',threaded fitting,and push the cable back through the sleeve.It'll go easier now that the sleeve isn't so tight..leave a little loop of cable,then crimp the sleeve tightly. I wick a little thin C/A in there for additional holding power..
Trim the extra cable even and do the second one.
Install the rudder servo,and an arm with holes spaced exactly as those on the rudder horns.Connect the cables to the servo,and feed the unfinished end through the cable sheaths and out the fuselage..You may need to'fish' the cable through the exit with a knife blade-it tends to catch in the covering
Use masking tape and lock the rudder at the forward end to the fin to keep it straight.
Repeat the process with the connecter attached to the rudder horns.Be sure there are a couple of threads visible through the coupler..You won't need to make the cables longer,by adjusting them,they only need to go tighter.
The instructions say to loop the cables through the sleeve again,but I never can.
I tested a 30lb weight on one cable,and it held,so the single loop is plenty strong,if well crimped.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:41 AM
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I asked Gene to buy a 90 deg.exhaust adapter,and he ignored me,saying 'run the exhaust out through the cowl'.
I wasn't having any of that(I didn't need holes in that nice cowl),so I cut a recess into the firewall for the muffler.
We're using a Saito 1.50 (he had it)and it wasn't a big deal to modify the firewall.
I opened it up with a small saw,and ground a round shape that I could fill with two layers of 1/64 " plywood.
I glued and laminated with Med.C/A ,sanded and primed it.A small filler piece top and bottom,and it's all sealed up.
The exhaust is ejected into the cooling duct at the bottom of the fuse and is totally hidden from view..
Firewall strength has not been compromised,and the cowl is still whole.
We're relying on an on board glow igniter,controlled by the transmitter,to avoid an access hole for a manual one.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Window "glass"

When we got the kit,the windscreen was broken,and the plastic seemed very brittle..So we ordered a replacement,and a spare.

Gene and I went to G-Force to pick up the new parts,and one of the new windscreens was broken also......I'm beginning to get a 'feeling' here.

Before I try to mount the good one,I'm going to pop it in the oven for a few minutes ,at 100 degrees or so.....maybe make it a little more pliable..

I'm not sure I can pull one myself,because my experience with plastic lately has been "crazing"-(tiny little cracks,like spider webbing),at the severe bends..
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:47 PM
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I think I would put one of the cracked ones in the oven first to see what effect it has on the plastic. Why ruin a good one.........
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:22 AM
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my progress

I have now finished scuffing up the shinny finish and have painted her with testors dull-cote. This provides a great finish that looks and feels like true fabric. Am now waiting for my pinking tape to arrive for added detail on wing panels.For me I will be using the E-Flite 160 motor on 10s as I have had great results will this drive system in my Rascal 110 and my Pilot RC 1/4 scale Champ. enjoy yours, donnie
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mewert View Post
I think I would put one of the cracked ones in the oven first to see what effect it has on the plastic. Why ruin a good one.........
Yep-you're right-that didn't come out like I wanted it to..
-"I know you understand what you think I said,but what you heard wasn't necessarily what I meant to say"...lol.
Anyway,the heat didn't do any damage (it was only a little over 100 degrees),but at least it didn't break the plastic when I tried to bend it in a test.
Maybe we'll maiden it this weekend..lots to do yet.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 08:30 AM
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menksters

We don't have any large scale electrics-gene has a 60" one or so,and some smaller ones from e-flite and parkzone.

Ocassionally we discuss it,but so far, nada...
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