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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:45 AM
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Nancy, in France
Joined Sep 2008
246 Posts
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Which 1/5 bike for your 2013 races ????

RG3:


The new Nuova Faor (NF 512 or NF513 ?)


Einibike4-Odin with hydraulic brake:

http://imageshack.us/f/171/odin14.jpg/

Thunder Tiger SB5 (with some options):

KP13:
http://www.kp-designs.co.uk/


NB: For Edi's bike please read the news there:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...098831&page=63
(Because for the moment not available).

Which bike and why you choose it ?
Thanks
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 05:11 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,262 Posts
I, for one, will be staying with my "old" SB-5, with options from TT, Lightscale and OLP, plus the knowledge of the TT team!
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:04 AM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
640 Posts
Jabber, of course.

Will have to check if I stay with my 2011, or upgrade.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lalain View Post
NB: For Edi's bike please read the news there:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...098831&page=63
(Because for the moment not available).
Just a "inofficial" note about the JABBER. I actually did not want to come up with it until the deal is
absolutly bulletproof. But you all are already preparing for the 2013 Season so I should at least
say the following:

I have found a producer for the JABBER. I am in the process of designing the Bike for next year.
There is a good chance that there will be a kit available some time first half of 2013 (or later .
It will most possibly named "JABBER 2013" or similar. This bike will feature the same
sophisticated geometry and principle that led to the victory of so many titles and allowed so many
drivers to make the step to top level RC Bike racing.
Further the chassis design will most possibly feature the most advanced technology and manufacturing
techniques on the planet never seen in RC in history before. Target is to make an "affordable" bike that
will certainly be the first bike kit that will work "out of the box". The intention is to provide this bike with a
setup and all the prerequisite that is required for a "Top Performer" once you have tightened the last screw:
Just as known from the "big" names in RC business with their competition level cars. I personally
call that "R4V" (Ready for Victory). I am just as dedicated to get this Bike ready for market as I was
to win the World Championship 2011.
.....
Somehow that sounds like out of a advertisement... Please be patient I am working hard on this
and hope soon to announce what will really be happening.
.....
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Last edited by edi.winter; Oct 11, 2012 at 06:47 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:41 AM
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Joined Jul 2006
299 Posts
we will be patient, it will be worth the wait
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is it done yet??
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:45 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,262 Posts
OK, then, in '14 I will get a used J13!!!
but this is about 2013!!!
So... yes, patience is the key!
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:30 PM
Editor, RCCA
Guidoracer's Avatar
Chatsworth, CA
Joined Nov 2004
3,151 Posts
Awesome news, edi -- can't wait!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Joined Nov 2009
1,395 Posts
So I can save like crazy to get to Austria next year, have fun in the Alpen Cup getting thoroughly beaten with the M5mx, then marshal the Worlds for the week or I can save like crazy and get a Jabber.



(The Austrian trip wins, by the distance of an electron from a Helium nucleus, and only because I don't have a tarmac track as close by as the off road track, or the thumbs of Colin McCabe).
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:05 PM
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San Jose, California, United States
Joined Apr 2002
3,432 Posts
I have had new guys ask me "Whats the best 1/5 electric bike out there?"

I could only respond this way:

Concerning the UK/Austrailian bikes that most can't buy: "These elite bikes from overseas are "hand built" usually by someone close to their location (or at least in the same country) sometimes sold to others.
Those bikes are very competitive, but some argue if they are actually "better" or not. IF all the "major" racers buy the same kind of "elite" bike, they it stands to reason that those kinds of bikes "win".......if you put a TT SB-5 in the same hands of the same racers then its very possible that the TT bike will come in first also (or place in top 3)...... The "best bike" is always open to discussion and controversy."

So, are these elite bikes that can't really be bought from a "store" really "that" much more better/faster than produced bikes with hopups??? (example: steering/suspension/tires)

Again, if all the "good guys" are sold on these hand built bikes that are not available to most....doesn't it stand to reason that *those bikes all will be the top winners???

In other words, would the top 3 winners who could have used a SB-5 (fully hopped up) still drive and win top 3? Are they really that much more faster around a track??

Lets face it, there can only be so much "technology" in these bikes:
***** Lean angle / tire grip / top speed / braking ability / steering dampening....thats just about it.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:19 PM
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Tirol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev71H View Post
Lets face it, there can only be so much "technology" in these bikes:
***** Lean angle / tire grip / top speed / braking ability / steering dampening....thats just about it.
No question: The driver is one of the major parts of a bike. This "part" can only
work when he has a lot of talent or a lot of that funny thing called training.

I donīt think "thats about it" but here the points above in detail:

Tire grip: thats just about the same for all. You can buy them and put them on any bike.
You can only "increase" performance by properly breaking in a set of tires and taking care
of them. You can easily ruin a set of tires by brainlessly hammering them on their first time
out on the track.

Lean Angle: Here it gets tricky. Its not about the leaning angle you adjust when you lay it on your
workbench....A good bike has to "maintain" its leaning angle through a turn. Itīs about how
the suspension compresses in a turn. .....
Further when a good bike is at max. leaning angle then it still wonīt touch ground even when
you get close to the curbs. There is nothing worse than a fairing (even faintly) scratching on the
track. Few believe how much trouble that causes.

Top Speed: Anyone can buy a strong enough powerplant to reach speeds that will lead to a great
show end of straight. But you will never win a race on the straight. If you are talking of Top speed it
is more about: "How fast can a bike reach top speed?" A good bike does that REALLY fast without
backflipping

Braking ability: I wrote a bit of that long ago. There are a lot of discussions going on when and where
to start braking and how hard and good a brake should be. Technically a brake should work constant
over a 10 minute run. You donīt want your braking points to change every lap.
When it comes to how a pilot prefers a brake, thats one of the things you have to learn and try
and test and test and .... test....
I personally use less and brake earlier the better I get to know a track...and I stay on the brakes right
to the apex at max. leaning angle.
...Further I like to adjust how the brakes ramp up....at what point the front sets in ... when it lets go...
..also its cool to be able to adjust how hard the rear initially steps in.... and a few more tidbits that
are worthless (=complicated to explain... a bit like voodoo) but fun to have

Steering damping: Forget damping. A good bike doesnīt need any sort of steering damping.
The steerig springs/linkage is much more important.. but thats a different story.

Back to the beginning:
Fast is very unequal to constant.... best example: Simon Lancaster in Lostallo: Not under the
Top 20 Fastest Laps but in the Worlds FINAL. Actually its ALL about not crashing.... at a fast
pace...

A good driver can squeeze a fast time out of any (good) bike I guess. But a perfect bike is still
asking for more when the pilot thinks he has given everything....
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Kev71H's Avatar
San Jose, California, United States
Joined Apr 2002
3,432 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edi.winter View Post
No question: The driver is one of the major parts of a bike. This "part" can only
work when he has a lot of talent or a lot of that funny thing called training.

I donīt think "thats about it" but here the points above in detail:

Tire grip: thats just about the same for all. You can buy them and put them on any bike.
You can only "increase" performance by properly breaking in a set of tires and taking care
of them. You can easily ruin a set of tires by brainlessly hammering them on their first time
out on the track.

Lean Angle: Here it gets tricky. Its not about the leaning angle you adjust when you lay it on your
workbench....A good bike has to "maintain" its leaning angle through a turn. Itīs about how
the suspension compresses in a turn. .....
Further when a good bike is at max. leaning angle then it still wonīt touch ground even when
you get close to the curbs. There is nothing worse than a fairing (even faintly) scratching on the
track. Few believe how much trouble that causes.

Top Speed: Anyone can buy a strong enough powerplant to reach speeds that will lead to a great
show end of straight. But you will never win a race on the straight. If you are talking of Top speed it
is more about: "How fast can a bike reach top speed?" A good bike does that REALLY fast without
backflipping

Braking ability: I wrote a bit of that long ago. There are a lot of discussions going on when and where
to start braking and how hard and good a brake should be. Technically a brake should work constant
over a 10 minute run. You donīt want your braking points to change every lap.
When it comes to how a pilot prefers a brake, thats one of the things you have to learn and try
and test and test and .... test....
I personally use less and brake earlier the better I get to know a track...and I stay on the brakes right
to the apex at max. leaning angle.
...Further I like to adjust how the brakes ramp up....at what point the front sets in ... when it lets go...
..also its cool to be able to adjust how hard the rear initially steps in.... and a few more tidbits that
are worthless (=complicated to explain... a bit like voodoo) but fun to have

Steering damping: Forget damping. A good bike doesnīt need any sort of steering damping.
The steerig springs/linkage is much more important.. but thats a different story.

Back to the beginning:
Fast is very unequal to constant.... best example: Simon Lancaster in Lostallo: Not under the
Top 20 Fastest Laps but in the Worlds FINAL. Actually its ALL about not crashing.... at a fast
pace...

A good driver can squeeze a fast time out of any (good) bike I guess. But a perfect bike is still
asking for more when the pilot thinks he has given everything....
Everything above I agree on accept the "forget the steering dampening" thought.

I feel some kind of effective steering dampening *(even of very low dampening) is important because of imperfections in race tracks and especially parking lots have rocks/cracks and things that can get the front tire to wabble a lot if there is a lack of some kind of dampening other than bare springs.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 04:48 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
23 Posts
I know for a fact that the NF bike cant look like that to win anything like it did.
the brake caliper is the same as mine and scrapes like a mother when down low at angles.
and the rear swing is also scraping when going fast troug corners.
so if this is the real new NF then the byers are going to be dissepointed big time.
But the bike looks low so maby thats the key to go fast without going as low in angle.


Was looking at geting the KP13 but not desided yet.
good price and hopfully better steering than the NF 509 i got now.
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Last edited by David Fock; Oct 20, 2012 at 04:56 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 07:10 AM
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nuovaic's Avatar
Wetherby, UK
Joined Dec 2003
1,133 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev71H View Post
Everything above I agree on accept the "forget the steering dampening" thought.

I feel some kind of effective steering dampening *(even of very low dampening) is important because of imperfections in race tracks and especially parking lots have rocks/cracks and things that can get the front tire to wabble a lot if there is a lack of some kind of dampening other than bare springs.

Clearly, Edi only races on super smooth tracks!
No bike would last a few laps at Skipton without a damper.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 08:02 AM
Big thrills w/o hospital bills
scaulfi's Avatar
Brisbane, Australia
Joined Sep 2003
3,678 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nuovaic View Post
Clearly, Edi only races on super smooth tracks!
No bike would last a few laps at Skipton without a damper.
Yep, same thing for us too at our track, John. The track might look smooth on camera but at ground level its like Skipton. For us, its the ground it was layed on, its a clay base and it changes shape over time with the weather. You can't run at our track either without a steering damper or a hard setup, plus the rock hard inserts don't work as well on it as the grey NF or SB5 inserts do. Ive noticed that when I go OS to race my setup always changes dramaticly from how I had it setup for here.

Anyway, to answer the thread question, I'll use my bike. (Its hand built but not really commercialy available so I won't post a pic of it here.. )
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 01:47 AM
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nuovaic's Avatar
Wetherby, UK
Joined Dec 2003
1,133 Posts
I found the same here Shaun, medium or even soft inserts work ok, rock hard inserts put too much stress on the suspension over the bumps, causing loss of grip, loss of 'feel' and accelerate the collywobble effect! I like a bit of squish in the tyres here!
I find it hard to believe your track is as bumpy as Skippy though, maybe your memory is playing tricks? You will have to come back for a reassessment!

Oh yes, in answer to thread question, it will be the unavailable FS-2 4 stroke, the same bike I been running almost every club day and National meeting since April 2007.
It doesn't always win, but sure sounds good.
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