Shaping the cowl to profile 1. Next I need to shape the upper half to profile 2 then build the removeable top cowl parts. the lower half of the nose is shaped after adding the aluminum side panels. Pics:

Wheels mounted and nose is fitted. Final shaping to the nose will be done after the metal side plates are added.

Next up the the top area of the removeable cowl, dummy engines, and machine guns.

Very interesting build indeed, i have to try to build a fokker d7 someday. it's my favorite from ww1 fighters, yours it's really coming neat.

what did you use to solder the struts and undercarriage? silver solder?

regards
Daniel

i just used electrical rosin core solder like i use on my battery leads. my solder iron had enough heat to flow it into the copper wire wraps.

i spent an hour last night trying to mount the engine. i had to releave some wood on the lower cowl block to allow room for the crankcase. i tried using some M3 blind nuts, but didn't get them aligned properly and the engine has some left trust. working on plan B to get the engine straight. lack of access below the motor mount plywood plate makes this one a booger.

Well, I didn't get my pick this election (or last)...but at least the D7 fuselage is progressing a bit

Engine is mounted and as you can see I've started working on the removeable top hatch. this is going to be a nice access point. it will have two pins in the rear and magnets up front.

If anyone else builds this...I strongly recommend that the 1/2" bottom sheet under the engine be installed AFTER you get the engine mounted. I had a heck of a time getting the engine situated with no lower access at all.

I've got a good amount of work to do, but I am super anxious to fire up that Saito again! it is just a sweet running engine I can't stand seeing it sit idle!!!

Remote glow ignition will be added so I don't have to fiddle with a glow driver under the top wing. i probably will just put a single AA 1.5V battery in the fuselage and have a switch activate it. I plan to run a red LED inline so that I know when the plug is shot. another option is to install a remote glow socket somewhere that is easy to access.

Nice work looking really good what type covering will you be using ?

Bruce

Originally Posted by splinterz25

Nice work looking really good what type covering will you be using ?

Bruce

I bought a 2 meter roll of natural Solartex from Balsa USA. I think that will be enough to cover the fuselate and tail feathers. the nose area will be doped and tissued with the intent to have a smooth metal look. the lot will be painted flat yellow and maybe some od green on the decking under the guns.

wings will be losenge printed Solartex from Arizona Models. i haven't ordered the covering yet, but i did contact them to get details on the product. looks nice.

here is a sample:

You won't be disappointed w/ the Solartex REALLY NICE to work with just use low heat and it forms really easy to your project I used it on my Stinson SR-9 and there were some tough places and it pulled up nice and tight if you click on my name splinterz25 you can see my covering of that plane. woops I see you have already been there.

anyway good luck w/ the rest of your build,

Bruce

I built the dummy engine and am pleased with the end result. I used a couple coats of Aerogloss sanding sealer then some Testors paint. Later I'll either seal it with Aerogloss dope or clear laquer spray. I may paint it a little more later after I see how it looks in the finished cowl. Right now the engine is glued to a base which isn't secured to the cowl yet. It was a nice little project.

Next up I need to add pegs and magnets to secure the removeable cowl to the fuselage, then do the final sanding.

Pics:

i decided to set the fuselage to the side for now and work on the tail feathers. i don't like how the exhaust is lining up, so I may try to find an extension. i think it is M9 x .5 thread.

The scale is 7/48 (!) - close enough to 1/7.

Gordon's models ALL work well. A friend built one of these Fokker DVII from the plans about 8 years ago, (electric), flew great! Have no worries.

Martin

Originally Posted by Martin Irvine

The scale is 7/48 (!) - close enough to 1/7.

Gordon's models ALL work well. A friend built one of these Fokker DVII from the plans about 8 years ago, (electric), flew great! Have no worries.

Martin

If your buddy has any pictures or build tips, I'm be happy to receive the help!

These tail feathers are quite sturdy. I'm tempted to cut some lightening holes in the core of the areas between the 'ribs'.

I think it would be best to cover the tail feathers prior to gluing to the fuselage. Maybe even have the vertical stabilizer tab-into the horizontal stabilizer.

I sanded the tail feathers the based on my interpretation of the drawing suggested profile, then added a bevel to the hinge line. I plan to use the dubro 1/4 scale hinges. i'm tempted to use dual elevator pushrods...i don't like joining the halves with u-wire as it can flex and is non-adjusible once installed. i may also make plywood control hornes that slot into the wood vs a plastic screw on type.

exhaust adapter came in, pics: