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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:25 PM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
United States, MS, Columbus
Joined Nov 2001
263 Posts
Ouch. I feel the pain for removing the bad resin. Had something like that happen to a 1:144th scale wood built warship I glassed a while back. The glass started separating from the hull due to aged resin. It would not have been so bad except I knew that the resin was suspect even before using it.

Even worse? I used that resin on three different ships and had to redo them all. Bleah!

Stick with it! Your boat is gorgeous.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 01:14 AM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
United Kingdom, Wales
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Originally Posted by MMangus View Post
Ouch. I feel the pain for removing the bad resin. Had something like that happen to a 1:144th scale wood built warship I glassed a while back. The glass started separating from the hull due to aged resin. It would not have been so bad except I knew that the resin was suspect even before using it.

Even worse? I used that resin on three different ships and had to redo them all. Bleah!

Stick with it! Your boat is gorgeous.
Thanks Magnus....still scraping away !...but at least I've cut out the frames.

Back to it.

Cheers
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:40 AM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
United States, MS, Columbus
Joined Nov 2001
263 Posts
Not sure if it would help, but I used a heatgun to help soften the bad resin even more to pull the cloth off the wood hulls.

Korea huh? There was a half decent hobby shop up in the Seoul Electronics Market. I did best by ordering from Korean online web sites and having the goods delivered directly to my door.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MMangus View Post
Not sure if it would help, but I used a heatgun to help soften the bad resin even more to pull the cloth off the wood hulls.

Korea huh? There was a half decent hobby shop up in the Seoul Electronics Market. I did best by ordering from Korean online web sites and having the goods delivered directly to my door.
Pretty much the same for me. Not much modelling activity here. I am on an 8 on 2 off rotation back to my native S Wales, so try to stock up when I am at home !

Ref heating the epoxy...no need really in this case as I dont need to remove the glass cloth, as the problem is only related to the glue used for the internal formers and deck beams, where the goo can be removed by with a finger nail and a sharp edge. They have all been removed, and the hull internal is now clean. New formers have now been cut and so the process of installing these starts again today.

So nothing lost, apart from time and the frustration factor !
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Test fitting the fin housing and new internal framing...a slightly different arrangement this time. Hole cut for housing using my trusty Dremel...a must have tool for this sort of job
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:02 PM
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No expense was spared in constructing an alignment jig to fit the fin housing
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Not forgetting the rudder & supporting bulkhead.

Can some of the old hands advise what maximum rudder angles are needed ?

I'm pondering foredeck options....1/16 ply seems overkill...any thoughts ?
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 11:48 PM
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Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
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45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
Thanks John...
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:41 AM
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Perth Western Australia
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Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
You don't have to cover the whole deck you can leave plenty of access holes and cover with patch's, this will keep weight don and the fore deck construction looks very strong anyway.

Mike
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:51 AM
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You don't have to cover the whole deck you can leave plenty of access holes and cover with patch's, this will keep weight don and the fore deck construction looks very strong anyway.

Mike
Thanks Mike.

Here is the state of play so far. Construction this week will be on the mast box and installing the shroud fittings. After that things will slow down a bit waiting for the winch and and other bits and pieces from UK.
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Last edited by Chris Jenkins; Oct 29, 2012 at 03:07 AM.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Mast housing and deck bowl support now fitted.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 05:22 AM
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Next couple of weeks will be slow, until I can pick up the winch & radio from Wales. Anyway, quite pleased so far, and am wondering if I should leave the hull untainted and just paint the deck...any thoughts ?

I'll be using futaba 2.4ghz radio....question to the old salts....what servo for the rudder is recommended.?....standard sized 3003 for example ?

Have a great weekend all

Chris
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 10:28 AM
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A mini digital servo has the power and less weight than a standard.

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-524...ital_mini.html

or if you are going to use lipos, then a high voltage servo

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7245mh_servo.html

John
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 02:13 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales
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Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
A mini digital servo has the power and less weight than a standard.

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-524...ital_mini.html

or if you are going to use lipos, then a high voltage servo

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7245mh_servo.html

John
Thanks John...appreciate the input. Been building aircraff for 50 years or so, and this is new ground for me.

Here she is...(thinks : I really must get a proper model stand sorted out !)..rudder isn't flared to hull properly yet, will do that when final finishing done.
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Last edited by Chris Jenkins; Nov 03, 2012 at 09:16 AM.
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