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Old Oct 19, 2012, 06:25 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
South Korea
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Fittings

Time for some expert advice !

I would like to try making my own deck fittings for jib, shrouds and jib fairlead but some questions are:

- What gauge of stainless wire does one use ?

- For the jib sheet I've seen the foredeck fittings orientated fore & aft, whereas I'd have thought port & starboard would have been the way to go. What is best ?

Suggestions appreciated.

Chris
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 03:50 AM
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Australia, VIC, Paynesville
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My Jib sheet goes through a side then top, loop fitting soldered to a bolt but I must admit that the jib sheet wears more than the main. These rings are oriented port/starboard. I've seen very neat setups where just a "U" bend of stainless wire is inserted through two tiny holes and epoxied under deck - nothing to wrap around, very light and should be robust.

My jib swivel points are Pekabe Eyebolts P455 out of interest.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 07:22 AM
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Perth Western Australia
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This is what cool is talking about 1.6 SS rod or welding rod bent into a u and the glued under the deck. You could use this for side shrouds as well and as for replacing the rigging screws on the rigs use a bowsie it won't get as tight as a screw but will do.
Sorry about the photo it from an iPad 2 with no flash
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:46 AM
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United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
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After the wire is bent into the U shape it is bent into two L's on the portion that goes through the deck. Drill two small holes in the deck and snake the L shape through the holes, some guys add a small piece of glass over the part under the deck to make it very secure.

This is a good method, cheap, easy, light.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
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Try getting a length of Monel filler rod from a quality welding shop. It is used in the gas welding of some non ferrous pipework. It is so much easier to bend into a tight bend thats needed for deck loops.

Ralph
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:49 PM
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Thanks guys...all good advice.

Further point...what radio pots to use, and how to bond into deck (I know from experience epoxy will not work on some plastics, nylons and PolyC's). Here is an extract from a West study:

We discovered that some plastics need only be abraded for good adhesion to take place. Other plastics required additional surface prep involving a flame treatment to form dependable bonds. We discovered that a few plastics, like polypropylene and acrylic and their molecular cousins, are difficult to glue reliably no matter how we prepared the surfaces.

Regards
Chris
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 07:06 AM
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You can use all sorts of pots either screw top or the Chinese take away type or no pot at all and use sticky back sail material.
I use silicon to fix pot in place and make it water tight.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:48 PM
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yep, silicone. It is easily removable when you need to get into the hull later. use a thin bead, just enough to seal, so you can twist it loose later.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:39 AM
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Thanks for that fellas...silicon it is then. So then I guess any suitably sized screw top food container with the bottom cut out will do ?

As you can see from the attached pictures the foredeck framing & transom is now in place. (the transom is a tight fit, the light parts in the photo are not gaps !)

Eagle eyed will notice that I've opted for a simple foredeck, and havent followed the plan exactly. The aspect of the ipad camera distorts her true lines somewhat (yes, "it" has metomorphised into a "she" as all good ships must) ...
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Jenkins View Post
Thanks for that fellas...silicon it is then. So then I guess any suitably sized screw top food container with the bottom cut out will do ?
Leave the bottom in, the whole idea is to keep the contents dry if she leaks, drill holes in the side for the leads and keep then up high in case she really fills up

Also make sure the front stringer/beam is secure to the hull bottom as this is where all the load on the fore stay will be.

Where are you planing on mounting the winch?
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:12 AM
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i have my rmg winch under the foredeck so i can run a continuos loop from the winch to a block at the stern. is such a tidy way of doing it. Same as the TS2
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
Leave the bottom in, the whole idea is to keep the contents dry if she leaks, drill holes in the side for the leads and keep then up high in case she really fills up

Also make sure the front stringer/beam is secure to the hull bottom as this is where all the load on the fore stay will be.

Where are you planing on mounting the winch?
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the comments.

OK...gottcha ref the pot.

Ref the foredeck stringer, its made of laminations of three pieces of spruce, so is pretty stiff and the transverse beams are 1/8th ply. On advice from Frank I don't think that attachment to the keelson will be necesary. However, I wont rule it out if you think it is.

The winch is going starboard side as close to the fin box as shown on the plan, and with the drum above deck.

D:..sounds good....but maybe on the next one, as this a bit of a learning journey this time.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Jenkins View Post
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the comments.

OK...gottcha ref the pot.

Ref the foredeck stringer, its made of laminations of three pieces of spruce, so is pretty stiff and the transverse beams are 1/8th ply. On advice from Frank I don't think that attachment to the keelson will be necesary. However, I wont rule it out if you think it is.

The winch is going starboard side as close to the fin box as shown on the plan, and with the drum above deck.

D:..sounds good....but maybe on the next one, as this a bit of a learning journey this time.
Just epoxy some 100 pound Dacron or SS wire from the stringer to the hull, better to be safe than sorry.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
Just epoxy some 100 pound Dacron or SS wire from the stringer to the hull, better to be safe than sorry.
Sounds like a good idea..will do so.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Things have been set back somewhat today. I noticed that the epoxy I have been using to bond the transom and hull internal frames and beams hadn't cured completely. The glue had set to a hard putty like consistency, and could be indented with hard finger nail pressure.

The net result is that I have had to remove all of the internal outfitting, and spend hours scraping off the residue from the hull. Fortunately no damage to the hull, (that 98g glass doing its job!) but lost time and a high frustration factor @#$%

I've had to scrap the removed bulheads and beams, and so work starts cutting out again. Well at least no lasting damage, and a good job I noticed it before the situation got worse. First time in 50 years of modelling and over 25 years of using epoxy that I've had this problem.

Epoxy was Pacer USA...guess it had suffered storage problems somewhere along the line.
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