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Old Oct 03, 2012, 04:01 PM
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United States, AK, Ketchikan
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Building Pat Tritle's 53" Piper Super Cub

Hey all! I know this plane is a few years old now, but I thought I'd start a build thread on it anyway, as this is my first short kit, and my first build thread, so I'm sure I'll have some questions along the way.

I received the kit as a birthday present, but wasn't able to start it until a few days ago, as I was busy with a couple little items such as getting married and going on a honeymoon (Mediterranean Cruise!!) - Anyway, I'm back and settled in, so I thought it was time to start building something.

So far I have the tail surfaces framed up, and am a good way into getting the fuselage framed. The pictures show where I'm up to so far. This is my first time building with magnets, and I have to say I really like it. I don't know if it was the easiest way to laminate the bowed outlines, but it worked, and I didn't even break any wood. They definitely worked well for keeping the fuselage parts lined up, then I glued them up when I was satisfied.

The only issue I ran into was trying to keep F6 in place. The fuselage sides needed a bit more force than I expected to bend them, and the very small gluing surface holding F6 on wasn't quite enough. I don't know if it'll show up in the photo, but I ended up making a small gusset to keep it in place.

I do have one question at this point. I've installed the 1/16" stringers, and filled out the sides of the fuse with the 1/16" square pieces, but for the 1/8" x 1/16" outfill on the window frames, I'm not sure if I should glue the acetate for the window in first, or if I outfill with the balsa, then glue the acetate on top of everything?

Has anyone else used ply in place of the cardstock for the front? I bought a sheet of 1/64 when I purchased my balsa that I was thinking about using.

That's it for now. I may do some more today, but I have some other things to do as well. I'm hoping I can build this a bit faster than my 35" Waco!

Oh, one other thing. I plan on covering this with Litespan. Am I going to be tearing my hair out when it comes time to create the fillet at the tail if I use this?
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:00 PM
Made in the USA
BE77 Pilot's Avatar
Joined May 2010
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Congratz on getting married! The Cub looks great! I haven't done one up from scratch like that in about 10 years. Keep us posted.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 08:57 PM
Heads up...
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United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Watching....
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:47 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Feb 2010
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Always great to see a Tritle thread, I am watching this with interest!

Ethan
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 07:38 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Subscribed! Brings back memories, I built mine almost 4 years ago (my first Tritle build), and she's still flying. See my avatar, more pics in my blog. Good start so far. The biggest suggestion I would make it's too late for, that is to use bass for the main fuse longerons, I've cracked mine several times. Great plane, I'll be watching with interest.

Doug
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:03 PM
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United States, AK, Ketchikan
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Glad to see that some people are watching. It's definitely a nice kit, and I'm looking forward to this weekend when I can get some more work in on it. As of now I have zero hardware ordered, so I guess it's a good time to ask what people are using. I looked up the recommended power system at rchotdeals, but as this plane was designed several years ago, it didn't look like the exact motor was available. Can anyone recommend something similar that will fit on the kit's motor mount, seeing as I already have it installed!

I also had a question about setting the washout. Is it held in place by the struts, built into the structure of the wing, or twisted in and held with covering? My impression is that if you use Pat's jig, you set the plane and wing on the jig, which sets the washout, then you install the struts, which hold it in place. Currently, I don't have the tools to build the jig, though I may be able to find someone that will let me borrow their tools. Has anyone built this and done it without the jig, and have advice on how to do it?

I was also initially thinking about installing lights and building a functional landing gear, but I'm not sure now if I feel that ambitious. I would like to add some additional mounting points so I could install floats in the future, so another thing I'll have to do is find a good way of making the landing gear removable.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Joined Oct 2000
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Just a caution about adding details, all-up weight, keeping and slow scale-like flight performance. Try to use as light weight motor/battery pack and RC gear as you can and mount things far enough forward to reduce need for added nose ballast to get the CG right. Avoid adding anything to the rear fuselage and tail for the same reason. A lightly loaded model can fly slower without stalling and land without constantly damaging the landing gear.I'm learning to follow this advice after 60 years of model building.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:07 PM
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United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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Congratulations on getting married, your Med cruise sounds like a great place to start.

Litespan - great material, used to use it a lot... It has very low shrinkage, so you have to apply it very carefully to the point where it barely needs shrinking to fit. Areas like wingtips often need covering by seperate wing rib bays, for an idea of how little shrinkage it has. If you decide on Litespan, I have a PDF version of a how-to article on sticking it down to sheet wood surfaces, published back when it was new on the market and written by the guy who owns Solarfilm Sales. Be happy to email you the file if you feel a need.

Solarfilm Lite - SoLite and others in the US - doesn't come in 'Cub Yellow' but is very light, easy to apply with a little care and doesn't distort lightweight structures by over-shrinking.

1/64" ply - great stuff, though getting silly expensive these days. If it's for where I think, would prefer it to card.

See above on 'keep it light'. It's a small model, way too small to get you an invite to present day scale competitions so aim to keep the details and the weight down. As scale models look weird with no-one in the office, maybe look at a scale pilot from left and right hand profile shots stuck onto thin balsa, so it looks like a pilot's home when the model's flying past. Perhaps use some photos of someone who's very important to you?

A 'scale' UC on a Cub always looks good - maybe test fly yours with the lightweight kit UC and then build a sprung scale one when you've got her sort?

Good luck, all round

D
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Glad to see you back from the honeymoon. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Good luck.

Tony
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 10:22 PM
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United States, AK, Ketchikan
Joined Mar 2008
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Thanks for the advice. Reason I'm planning on Litespan is it's supposed to take paint well, and I really want a satiny painted look. I haven't decided on a color scheme yet, but it won't be cub yellow. Most likely some combination of green and white or red and white. I don't know if I'll find an example of a real plane online to copy, or just invent my own. I'm also re-thinking how much extra detail to add and just building it as shown, other than making the gear removable and adding another set of rear mount points further back for floats. I know Pat had a build thread somewhere on this forum about his float kit, but darn if I can find it.

Over the next few days I hope to get the framing on the fuse finished except for some final sanding, and hopefully get a lot done on the wings. Then I may put it aside for a bit while I frame up the 45" Jim Young Waco kit I have. I'm trying to put off buying anything for a little bit to let my bank account recover from my recent adventures...

Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
Congratulations on getting married, your Med cruise sounds like a great place to start.

Litespan - great material, used to use it a lot... It has very low shrinkage, so you have to apply it very carefully to the point where it barely needs shrinking to fit. Areas like wingtips often need covering by seperate wing rib bays, for an idea of how little shrinkage it has. If you decide on Litespan, I have a PDF version of a how-to article on sticking it down to sheet wood surfaces, published back when it was new on the market and written by the guy who owns Solarfilm Sales. Be happy to email you the file if you feel a need.

Solarfilm Lite - SoLite and others in the US - doesn't come in 'Cub Yellow' but is very light, easy to apply with a little care and doesn't distort lightweight structures by over-shrinking.

1/64" ply - great stuff, though getting silly expensive these days. If it's for where I think, would prefer it to card.

See above on 'keep it light'. It's a small model, way too small to get you an invite to present day scale competitions so aim to keep the details and the weight down. As scale models look weird with no-one in the office, maybe look at a scale pilot from left and right hand profile shots stuck onto thin balsa, so it looks like a pilot's home when the model's flying past. Perhaps use some photos of someone who's very important to you?

A 'scale' UC on a Cub always looks good - maybe test fly yours with the lightweight kit UC and then build a sprung scale one when you've got her sort?

Good luck, all round

D
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 11:08 AM
Retired and Lovin' it!
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Brian, this is the only thread that I could find of Pat doing floats. They are Edo floats for the Pilatus. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1441108

You're going to find that the Waco is a much more complicated build than the Piper. It will consume more of your time and thinking than the Piper by a long way. At least that is my experience with the Waco. I have put mine aside for the time being and am building an Aerodrome RC SE5a. I have a Pete Rake SPAD XIII that I may build before I go back to the Waco.

The fuselage rear on the Waco kinda left me hanging and I also got kinda hung up on the bottom wing construction. Its not difficult, but its is requiring more thought than I was anticipating, I guess. Several other minor issues to. Probably just me!!!

Tony
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Here is what I managed to get done over the past couple days. The fuselage is finished aside from some more sanding here and there, and I still need to install the servo rails, but as I don't have any servos yet, I'm holding off. I used 1/64" plywood instead of file folder for the boot cowl, as I will probably be handling this part of the plane a lot while carrying it and I wanted something a bit more sturdy. I don't know what the weight difference is but it can't be that much more. If anything it'll help balance out the hard balsa I used in all the framing.

The next thing I did was get the wings, ailerons, and flaps framed out. I still need to glue in the servo trays, but I'm not sure yet if I want to run the servos as shown in the plans or use individual servos for each control. I will probably go with what is shown on the plans. What servos should I be looking at, and what kind of control cables do I need? I was also thinking about using pin hinges vs. CA hinges. Is there and advantage to one over the other? I've always hated trying to cut straight slots with an X-acto blade and thought drilling a couple small holes would be easier.

Right now I'm in the middle of shaping and sanding the leading edges, tips, and everything before I join them together. Much easier now then trying to maneuver a big wing around. I also went out and bought the required music wire and the aluminum tube for the strut mounts. Going to stick with the plan gear for now.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 07:43 AM
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United States, NH, Bedford
Joined Jan 2012
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Subscribed. You're moving quickly! Did you figure out the washout? The threads I've read seem to set it on the board while building the wing by propping up the trailing edge at the wingtip before adding the rear spar or sheeting which then locks it in. If the plans didn't call for it, sounds like the jig and struts will do the job.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Looks really good Brian. Keep it up!

Tony
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:24 AM
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I haven't set the washout yet. Plans for call 1/8" at the back tip (where the bent wingtip meets the rear edge of R6). I guess I'll just set it with the struts, or maybe when I cover it.

It looks like it's going fast now. We'll see how much longer that lasts. My next set of building days, I'm hoping to get the sanding more finalized, join the wing halves, and solder up the landing gear. I will need to order hardware and covering soon too.
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