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Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Brushless Nano cpX conversion

Following Dylans lead I went off and started my brushless conversion of the nano the other day. Durning the conversions I noticed the motor does not have to have the hub changed out for a bearing tube nor did i need to make a new longer shaft as been mentioned previously.

To make the pinion reach the proper area below the motor it needed an additional 1mm in length which i was able to get from pounding the motor shaft downward from the bell a bit.

Instead of using a bearing tube from another motor I left the hub the same and made an adapter out of clear tubing that I was able to get cut straight on both sides using two washers as guides. Though after looking back I would now change this out for 7mm plastic washers that are about 2mm thick.


I then shaved the motor mount on the frame perfectly flat to accept the new motor and glued it into place.

I Bought a brushless heli flash stick and made an adapter for my esc though i have not as of yet tried it and instead went and flashed my esc with the micro solder points on the esc itself as suggested by Daryoon and is how it is written up in the BLHeli guide.

I soldered everything straight to the esc and piped the power to the esc before the main board. I tapped the signal into the back of the board upper right of the main board. I then flashed my esc when BLHeli code V6.1 as V7.0 wouldnt flash.

I then mounted the servos using msrx blade grip screws, pitch link ends and the dampers from the feather in shaft. I will change out the dampers for solid washers soon.

After flying a bit I have noticed any little vibe on 8 tooth makes the tail kick. It seems most vibes come from the servo arms that now touch the servo when moving due to the servo being brought outward. Simple fix will be to put a small outward bend in each arm.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the post. Please show us a photo of the frame without the 3in1 so we can see how the servos and motor are mounted.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:35 PM
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I've been following the BL Nano thread. Nice adaption of what you have lying around..

Do you per chance have a link to the signal solder point pic or can you upload one please?

Thanks
Amp
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:58 AM
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indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni Day View Post
Thanks for the post. Please show us a photo of the frame without the 3in1 so we can see how the servos and motor are mounted.
I can later tomorrow as of right now I took it apart to change out the motor shaft and put in a 7 tooth pinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw View Post
I've been following the BL Nano thread. Nice adaption of what you have lying around..

Do you per chance have a link to the signal solder point pic or can you upload one please?

Thanks
Amp
Thanks Amp, it worked for getting it up in the air though I am now changing out the plastic mount I made for a 7mm x2mm washer while I downsize the pinion. The mount I had made I can see the frame breaking easier since it had a bit of flex to it.

On the solder points I went along with this picture from a HF thread
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 02:07 AM
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Which motor and esc is that? Is there a sponsor we can buy them from? Stock batteries?

Thanks for taking the time to document this in one spot.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I can later tomorrow as of right now I took it apart to change out the motor shaft and put in a 7 tooth pinion.


Thanks Amp, it worked for getting it up in the air though I am now changing out the plastic mount I made for a 7mm x2mm washer while I downsize the pinion. The mount I had made I can see the frame breaking easier since it had a bit of flex to it.

On the solder points I went along with this picture from a HF thread
Appreciate the response. Clearly I was nice and ambiguous...oops.

Was referring to the signal origin point on the 3in1?

Sooo....7T...hoping for less bog or is 8T a little too much headspeed for your preference? I know you'd be building an indoor heli well suited to flips, mobius etc inside..so spill the beans lol...why the change from 8T?

UM packs are pretty crappy too for the most part so perhaps 8T just can't be fed properly with a smaller cell. Miniaviation have some 190's that I've been researching in case my bl needs more. (btw haven't veen got one yet..it's on its way from the US)

Amp
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni Day View Post
Which motor and esc is that? Is there a sponsor we can buy them from? Stock batteries?

Thanks for taking the time to document this in one spot.
It is the hp03s 13500kv with a xp-3A speed controller. If you wanted to buy both at the same shop you have two choices in the states. Dylans web shop astroiddesigns.com or Toppers web shop Topcopter.com. Both offer the unflashed or if wanted a flashed version of the esc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw View Post
Appreciate the response. Clearly I was nice and ambiguous...oops.

Was referring to the signal origin point on the 3in1?

Sooo....7T...hoping for less bog or is 8T a little too much headspeed for your preference? I know you'd be building an indoor heli well suited to flips, mobius etc inside..so spill the beans lol...why the change from 8T?

UM packs are pretty crappy too for the most part so perhaps 8T just can't be fed properly with a smaller cell. Miniaviation have some 190's that I've been researching in case my bl needs more. (btw haven't veen got one yet..it's on its way from the US)

Amp
LOL... I guess it should have been obvious asking for the location of the signal but i spent too much damn time on that esc and flashing since it was my first go around. The v7 software gave me a headache. I went from his picture Here

On the 8 tooth headspeed is IMO damn near perfect but the overall length of flights before bogging occurred was less than ideal with most of the packs I have. Of course I could up the mAh and I have eyed those MA packs as well but probably would need around 220 mAh or so to be prime. Of course every gram is almost a 3.5% AUW gain and on this one at least I am trying to keep it as low as I can because i will bounce this off of everything inside
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Thanks

I'm going to try the new 12000Kv tail motor (hawk and Hk) on 8T...see how it works out. That is after I actually get a Nano.

Currently I'm just virtual modding.

Amp
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Blade Nano CPx BL Frame Mod

Hi all,
I am a new user here but I've been following the BL Nano thread and wanted to give my inputs on how I mod the frame to accept a HP03S BL outrunner. The mod I did require the use of the MCP x frame along with the Nano CPx frame. It took me a little over 30 minutes and it works beautifully. Anyway, I've attach a quick DIY instruction and pictures I made for my friends. Enjoy!
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw View Post
Thanks

I'm going to try the new 12000Kv tail motor (hawk and Hk) on 8T...see how it works out. That is after I actually get a Nano.

Currently I'm just virtual modding.

Amp
Virtual modding ..nice

I looked at that motor a while ago on HK since it had a very nice price. I never could find a picture of the back until you mentioned hawk
The 7mm base would be nice since all you would need is a bit of gaffers tape or something to secure instead of making a base like i did. I bet that will work out quite well as the main
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Hellimod nice little mod you got there do you by chance know how much weight difference adding that structure is? Very nice instructions too!

I am going to open a new thread in the main area instead of on my blog so it is searchable for others
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Hellimod nice little mod you got there do you by chance know how much weight difference adding that structure is? Very nice instructions too!

I am going to open a new thread in the main area instead of on my blog so it is searchable for others
I haven't weigh it yet but will when everything is assembled together. This way I'll know exactly how much of a difference from the stock. Anyway, I think the difference in the stock frame vs. the mod frame is very little cause only a small portion of the MCPx frame is added in place of the Nano stock frame. Furthermore the HP03S outrunner is lighter than the stock motor so the final weight will be closely similiar.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Yeah the hp03s/esc combo is a lot less in weght comared to the stock motor.
I would eventually like to try the motor Amp was talking about since it would just slip fit into the frame

Can you repost your mod in this new thread? That way more people can add and find stuff easier

edit: for further info go to the helifreak thread here
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=459685
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