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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:08 PM
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Lnagel's Avatar
Moab, Utah, USA
Joined Apr 2003
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Air foiled again!

While you guys argue about.....uh, discuss the scale aspects of the design, I like what Pete has done and will continue building as he designed it.

I could have sworn I had enough, but I ran short of CoverLite. I did manage to get some of the top wing covered before I ran out. Unfortunately, I don't have an LHS. The nearest hobby shop is a 130 mile one way trip and I didn't feel like using $50.00 worth of petrol to pick up some covering. Then I remembered that I had some polyspan stashed away. So I now have a hybred covered top wing.

The thing about polyspan is that it is not sealed like CoverLite is. That meant that just slapping a thin coat of adhesive on the covering and ironing it onto the airframe was no longer a viable alternative. So I changed my covering method by applying the diluted Mod Podge to the wing frame with a sponge brush. I found that, just like applying the first coat of dope to balsa, the Mod Podge caused the balsa grain to raise. And just like I do when using dope, I sanded the raised grain down with 400 grit and applied another coat of Mod Podge. The first coat had sealed the wood sufficiently that the second coat no longer raised the grain. Then it was just a matter of ironing the polyspan on.

In any case, all of the fabric covered sections of the original are now covered on the model. I still have to seal the polyspan before I can paint. I will do that with a couple coats of Minwax Polycrylic. That is one of the advantages of CoverLite, because it is pre-sealed one can paint straight off after applying the covering. Another advantage is that it is a lot easier to apply the adhesive to the covering than it is to apply it to the airframe.

A note to Pete. After covering and taughtening the bottom wings I opened up the aileron servo bay. I found that the outboard rib is quite flexible and allowed the fabric to loosen and sag a bit. Although not of great concern, you might consider using a thicker rib or some sort of reinforcement in that area.

Larry
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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Bugger!! I just knew there'd be something I forgot. I'll add a strip of 1/8x1/4 between the spars.

Pete
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
I'll add a strip of 1/8x1/4 between the spars.

Pete
That should do it.

Larry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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A stitch in time saves nine

It's been six days since I've posted in this thread, so time for an update. I have been working on the build all of those six days, it's just tedious detail work that takes a long time with little to show or talk about.

What I have been doing is applying rib and perimeter tapes. A lot of the photos of the Tabloid show it to have quite prominent rib stitching and tape. I just thought it would look better if I replicated that look. I didn't think that the covering materials that I used would be thick enough to achieve the look I desired, so I made the tape from standard 20# printer paper. I coated one side of the paper with full strength Mod Podge, cut the paper into strips of the appropriate width, then ironed them onto the wings and tail surfaces. I sealed everything with a couple coats of Polycrylic.

I'm still contemplating about replicating the actual rib stitches. With 48 ribs and around 40 stitches per rib, that's over 2000 stitches when the tail surfaces are included! I did apply stitching to the ailerons to see how it looks. I did the stitching by using a toothpick to apply Mod Podge to the top of the rib tapes. Once painted it would be impossible to tell if the stitches are above or below the tape. Actually, the Mod Podge dries clear so it is very difficult to tell which side of the tape the stitching is on before painting.

Larry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:53 PM
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Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
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Rib tapes are very visible on most Tabloids, and I reckon all the hours have been worthwhile Larry - your last picture is very realistic.

But (coughs discreetly) the fin numbers?

Edit - 168 is the replica Tabloid at the RAF Hendon Museum - I'm sorry - I'm just being picky again!
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 03:29 PM
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Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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Larry - the rib taping looks good I used the same method on my Fokker DVII but used canopy cement stitches on top of the tape - I did it after the painting on the lower wings and it was hard to see the difference from the painted ones.

Pat
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 04:13 PM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Hi Larry

Lovely looking model, the Tabloid is one of my (many) favourite WW1 machines.

What about printing the stitches onto the Litespan? I did this some years ago on a Sopwith Pup I built - after experimenting I found that Cream Litespan can be printed-on by running it through an inkjet printer, taped down to a bit of thin card. I printed a few rows of subtle stitches then cut it into strips, Balsaloc'd it and ironed it down.

I found I had to set the print quality to 'lowest' to avoid smudging as on 'normal' quality the ink would not dry quickly and would smear as it ran through the printer. I was also able to pre-print the serial number for an Eindekker model onto the side covering - doing it in reverse so the printing was on the inside of the Litespan and safe from handling.

Might be worth a try for a simple line of '- - - - - - - - - - - ' stitches.

Regards
Harry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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Thanks for the encouragement on the rib stitching guys.

Harry - I've printed on tissue before, but never Litespan. A good tip that would be worth giving a try if I was using cream Litespan/CoverLite. However, I have white CoverLite on the bottom of the top wings and on the tail feathers. The rest of the wings are covered with polyspan. All of that will need painting, so printing any detail is not an option right now. I did print lacing onto tissue for the bottom of my Rake Fokker D.VIII.

Larry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 06:43 PM
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Norfolk, England
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Larry,
Rib stitching looks good. Not so sure about those exposed hinges though, definitely not a scale feature.
Otherwise, the model is coming along great.

Pete
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Not so sure about those exposed hinges though, definitely not a scale feature.
Hopefully I won't get arrested for indecent exposure. Considering I don't have any reference as to what the scale aileron hinges looked like, those will have to do. Besides, would scale hinges work with the nonscale airfoil?

Larry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
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Looks fantastic mate, lovely work.

Craig
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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Thank you Craig.

Larry
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 09:53 PM
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Melbourne, Australia
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The rib stitching looks sensational Larry.

Hugh
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 01:55 AM
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Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
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Yes, it's looking great.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 04:12 AM
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Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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I wasn't suggesting scale hinges mate. It's your model, so use whatever hinges you like. It's just that they are so obvious on a top hinged set-up like that - a bit in your face. I'd use centre hinging and CA hinges every time. Less gap and virtually invisible on the finished model.
To be honest, I'm surprised you top hinged the ailerons, it's not what's shown on the plan. With centre hinging you can hide pinned hinges. As it is, if they aren't glued I'd still be inclined to replace them with CA hinges so they don't stand up above the wing surface. Dummy hinges of the style shown in your earlier photo would hide them completely. They look very similar to what Darrin used in his original Dr1 thread.

Pete
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