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Old Oct 15, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Lnagel's Avatar
Moab, Utah, USA
Joined Apr 2003
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Not by the hair of my chiney chin chin

I thank all of you for your kind comments. It makes these build threads worthwhile to know someone is watching.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MerlinV
I can pull you a plastic cowl. I still have the master.
Sure, now you tell me after I spent several hours glueing up the blank and carving it to shape. Thank you very much for the offer Hugh, much appreciated. However, I have already made arrangements with Charlie at Manzano Laser to get the cowls produced for mass consumption by the public in general.

Geez, now I feel like some bleedn' left wing radical letting the masses reap the fruits of my labor. The next thing you know Charlie will not only have Vickie cutting parts, but he will also contract Pat Lynch's team of elves to assemble them. ARFs to satisfy the instant gratification generation.

OK, enough blathering. The Tabloid not only has the cowl covering the top of the engine, but it also has an aluminum chin to fair the bottom half of the engine. Again, Pete's plan says to fabricate this by carving and hollowing a balsa block. Again, I didn't have a balsa block so I made one by laminating some 1/4" and 1/8" balsa sheets. I then carved and sanded the resulting blank to shape. I did not, however, hollow it out. As I mentioned above, I am sending these to Charlie to use as patterns for pulling plastic parts. I felt that it would stand up to the proceedure better if it was left solid. I can always hollow it out when I get it back.

Larry
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Norfolk, England
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Larry,
Personally, I'd sooner have lumps of balsa to work with. Moulded parts are all well and good if you like them but I'm much happier sealing, priming, sanding, etc. before painting these areas. Especially in view of the handling the top block will get.
Just put it down to being set in my ways - and that I find carving balsa quite relaxing and very satisfying.

Pete
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 07:46 PM
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Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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Looks very 'Tabloidal' Larry. ....and my Elves are too busy to help Charlie earn his squillions! I agree with Pete about the satisfaction of carving and sanding. I only use the plastic sheet as a skin to help get a fine - and durable - finish. Since you are already an expert in shiny metallic paint finishes, it won't be a problem.

Happy carving - Pat
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 08:29 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
Joined Apr 2003
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I agree with both of you, there is definitely a satisfaction in seeing a generic lump of balsa become a sinuous piece of aircraft. Pat, you obviously remember that I do shiny metallic surfaces, but I don't do it with paint finishes. I have yet to find a paint technique that I think looks authentic. I simulate aluminum with chrome UltraCote. I plan on doing the same with this airplane and plastic does not hold up to a heat activated film. Because of that, I will be going with the balsa cowlings. Another alternative would be fiberglass. It is smooth and thin like plastic and will hold up to the heat when applying a film covering. The only reason I'm having the plastic done is for other people who want to build this airplane and who do not necessarily want to carve balsa. What can I say? I'm just an altruistic guy.

Larry
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 08:46 PM
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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+1 for carving, it is very relaxing watching the shavings curl off the razor plane
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 03:33 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Truly a saint among modellers mate.

Pete
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 04:47 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MerlinV View Post
I can pull you a plastic cowl. I still have the master.

Mines a slightly different shape though. Comes down straight to the nose from the curvature of the upper formers.



Cheers,

Hugh

PS. Still trying to work out how to securely attach in flight but still have access to my battery.
On one of my Tabloids I hinged the cowl at the front so it was easy just to flip it up to recharge the battery. The version I modelled had a flat front though - I see yours has the trapezoid. Still, one front edge could be hinged. The airflow would retain the cowl...or maybe a small magnet
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Mar 2009
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Thanks Mike.

I am thinking magnets. Screws firmly attaching the top section and maybe alter the underside with a spring pinned hatch?

Anyway, back to Larry's very clean build.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:09 AM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
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Thanks for the contribution

I am one of those who dislike carving. I'd much rather have a nice plastic or fiberglass part instead of acting like I am a sculptor. Probably why I am an engineer instead of an artist

I will even sheet or plank an area rather than carve wood.

I do love to use a plane on wood though. My favorite is an 18" long one and I have been known to just get a scrap piece of wood and make shavings out of it. No real art there (unless you consider sharpening the blade an art), just the feeling of gliding over the wood.

Charlie
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 01:04 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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A leg to stand on

The last major subassembly of this airplane is the undercarriage (UC). Ever wonder why they call it an undercarriage? After all, there's no overcarriage to differentiate it from. So why not just call it the carriage?

The full size Tabloid's UC was made of wood. Pete's representation of that is made from music wire that is clad in wood. The plan calls for 14 swg wire, some obscure measurement system for wire diameter. I think whoever developed the system had taken too many swigs at the time. I used 3/32" diameter wire that is the closest I could find to 14 swg in the real world.

Of course the UC wouldn't be much good without wheels. Those are made by sandwiching a disk of 1/8" balsa between two disks of 1/32" ply of just a bit larger diameter. The hub has a brass tube bushing and the tire will be some sort of foam or rubber cord.

Larry
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:08 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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The whole is greater than the sum of the parts

With all of the major subassemblies done I figured it was time to see what it looks like when they are all put into their proper places. So here are the obligitory bare bones photos.

Larry
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:28 PM
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"Ever wonder why they call it an undercarriage?"
To remind pilots which way up they should be landing?
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 03:07 PM
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FYI, 14ga is close to .078 wire (actual is .080)
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Moab, Utah, USA
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A hole in one

I figured the pilot needed a way to ingress and egress the aircraft so I cut a large hole in the top of the fuselage. The plan doesn't show a top view of the cockpit opening so I guess it's up to the builder to shape it as desired. Fortunately I have a good copy of the three view that Peter used to design the model. That shows me the cockpit opening was somewhat egg shaped with the rear wider than the front. The three view also shows some other scale details that can be included if so desired. I have attached the copy of the three view for others who may be interested in some scale details not included on the plan. The three view is in two parts and must be taped together.

Speaking of the cockpit, the original Tabloid had a two place cockpit with the crew sitting side-by-side. When the military appropriated the aircraf they changed it to a one place cockpit. I guess this literally gave the pilot plenty of elbow room.

I also installed the rudder and elevator servos. The plan shows them installed inverted and accessed through a hatch on the bottom of the fuselage. I figured there was good access through the hunking large cockpit opening, so I installed the servos in the same location as shown on the plan, but in the upright position. I will cover the hole on the bottom of the fuselage with balsa.

Larry
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
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That 3-view is definitely of a Replica not the original. Nothing wrong with that of course - it's still a scale Tabloid!

Looking forward to seeing yours in the air Larry,

Mike
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