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Old Oct 21, 2012, 06:51 PM
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fleaz's Avatar
United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Apr 2007
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Originally Posted by alibongo View Post
Is there a uk distributor for the Stevens kits?Their quality reminds of the now defunct Pilot range.I'd like to build something again.
Micron Radio Control They carry the DiddleBug series, some of our gliders and control line kits, and all of our UltraMicro kits.

Mark
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 07:09 PM
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United States, NH, Bedford
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by dmcMaine View Post
Ah ha. Therein lies my confusion. My former F6 wasn't hollow, but instead solid bearing the Stevens' Aero logo. (see pic).

So I should open a hole there to route the servo wires through?
If you haven't cut holes, you don't have to. I've attached a shot of my setup, you can see I just routed the servo wire around the sides of the servo tray. I then used a twist tie to gather wires together. Certainly not as pretty as the picture in the manual, but it may be easier than trying to get in and makes holes in that former.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:23 PM
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United States, CA, Torrance
Joined Feb 2012
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I'm still probably using too much CA. The thin ca comes out quite quickly. I think it is going to take a little practice to better control the amount.
I found that getting one of the small pippettes that you can squeeze a little bit at a time out of like an eye dropper worked best. You have to cut off a good amount of the top of your bottle of CA to get it in there and fill it up (leave enough to put the cap back on) but it helped not using too much and getting into hard to reach places. If using the thin stuff for most joints it really takes just a drop here and there.

Hope that helps.

Another newbie builder,
Tim
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:43 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by glazzies View Post
I found that getting one of the small pippettes that you can squeeze a little bit at a time out of like an eye dropper worked best. You have to cut off a good amount of the top of your bottle of CA to get it in there and fill it up (leave enough to put the cap back on) but it helped not using too much and getting into hard to reach places. If using the thin stuff for most joints it really takes just a drop here and there.

Hope that helps.

Another newbie builder,
Tim
I've already taken photos of those little things to show in my build thread. IMO, it's the only way to do it. I've never seen a CA bottle with an appropriate tip.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:48 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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It would help if I was not commenting on something from page 1 of 4 weeks later... for some reason I thought it was earlier on in the build... I should get back to work rather than posting here...
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:50 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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Originally Posted by glazzies View Post
It would help if I was not commenting on something from page 1 of 4 weeks later... for some reason I thought it was earlier on in the build... I should get back to work rather than posting here...
Good information is always welcome any time of day!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 05:57 AM
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United States, ME, West Bath
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by glazzies View Post
It would help if I was not commenting on something from page 1 of 4 weeks later... for some reason I thought it was earlier on in the build... I should get back to work rather than posting here...
No worries. I saw your advice in another thread as well. I think my allergic reaction to CA fumes is going to be a bigger issue though. For my next build, I plan to stick to titebond as much as possible.

btw... I've been following your build thread as well. Looks Great! The Lucky Ace looks like a really fun project.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:10 AM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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Originally Posted by dmcMaine View Post
No worries. I saw your advice in another thread as well. I think my allergic reaction to CA fumes is going to be a bigger issue though.
It put me in the hospital in 2004 - I spilled a bottle of it in my bedroom and never really cleaned it up - sleeping in that room messed me up big time. Basically it gave me pneumonia. I had to replace the carpet in there.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:01 PM
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United States, ME, West Bath
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So good readers, here she is. Believe me the pictures do a great job of hiding her warts.

When last we met, I still had some electronics to install and a wing to cover. The wing went much more smoothly than the fuselage did. Perhaps it was easier, or maybe I'm learning something along the way.

After that I soldered the deans connectors to the ESC and battery. Tell me, why do all the 'how to' youtube videos make things seem so easy? Just once I'd like to see a 'how to' that show you what a noob really does, then how to fix it. Ah well, solder complete without somehow burning down my garage in the process. We call that a win.

Interesting events while I was double checking that all of the control rods centered their control surfaces. I had just test fit the wing to recenter the aileron servos. Then removed it and set it back on the bench, while the rest of the plane was on the floor....behind me....

Have you ever watched Seinfeld? Hmm? I stepped back, felt my foot start to come down on the horizontal stab and then twisted and gyrated like Kramer trying to avoid actually crushing my new plane underfoot! Through some herculean effort I came to land in a pile of empty boxes, hands and feet flailing, instead of on the plane. Whew...nothing hurt but my pride and nobody saw me.

So here we are. The plane is ready. I've checked the CG, and control throws. I even made sure they work in the right direction. Bonus. All of this just in time for Sandy. Ah well. I need to up my courage level before a maiden flight anyway.

In the mean time I have RealFlight, and that micro P-51 to warm up with before the big plunge. Erm...I mean flight. Plunge would be bad. Very bad.

Now that the plane is ready, I can honestly say it wasn't that bad. Thanks to the quality laser cutting the frame went together much more quickly and easily than I expected. Covering to a high level will take more practice, but it isn't the 'secret art' that I feared it might be. My FullHouse has some ugly covering spots on the curved area just under the wing saddle, and the bottom of the nose. In the end, I have something that I can be proud of, warts and all. Hopefully it flies as nicely as I've heard others speak of. I think the only drawback I've found is price. ARF/RTF trainers are now so cheap that a kit is a hard sell, even one as nice as this. Of course, I personally would still do this again. Building a kit is darned fun! And having a kit built plane instead of yet-another-foam-trainer gives one a certain bit of 'field-cred' I have to think. And of course it is all about rep.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:21 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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Congratulations!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:45 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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Nice! Does it fly as good as it looks?
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:20 PM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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Looks great! Congrats on the successful build. You're really going to enjoy flying it. Keep us posted on the maiden.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 04:29 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Apr 2007
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Looks great! The camera can hide a lot of evils.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:22 PM
Cats can fly!
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Joined Jun 2012
148 Posts
I've got one of these kits on the way as my first balsa plane/build. I downloaded SA's excellent manual and read and re-read it. Yours looks pretty sharp, but I wish you'd comment on how you coped with the covering. Any tips; pitfalls etc?
I have read the RCG Covering Tutorial, and have the tools, but still wondering if I can pull off a wrinkle-free job.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:19 AM
Promoting Model Aviation...
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
Joined Nov 2005
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Wow! Very nice.

Frank
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