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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:52 PM
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"I do use clear Ultra covering on the bottom of ARFs controls to fill the hinge gap though"

I have heard this many times, I do not understand it. Pics? video? If you fill the gap how does the control surface actuate?

I plan on doing everything as per the manual pretty much.
I do plan on re-enforcing the landing gear for sure.
I will also use 4-40 rods everywhere which will help also.

I did just order 15 robart 1/8th hinges, and the drill guide. Maybe just the elevator, and rudder with these?
I like things simple, reliable, and hassle free. I get reading these threads, and I guess I get paranoid.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gagallagher044 View Post
"I do use clear Ultra covering on the bottom of ARFs controls to fill the hinge gap though"

I have heard this many times, I do not understand it. Pics? video? If you fill the gap how does the control surface actuate?

I plan on doing everything as per the manual pretty much.
I do plan on re-enforcing the landing gear for sure.
I will also use 4-40 rods everywhere which will help also.

I did just order 15 robart 1/8th hinges, and the drill guide. Maybe just the elevator, and rudder with these?
I like things simple, reliable, and hassle free. I get reading these threads, and I guess I get paranoid.
I use the 1/8 pins in most my planes. The planes I just built get the Dubro flat hinges though. Just because of the control thickness, they are a bit on the thin side. I did install some added exttra wood for a better gluing surface. The guide can be used for 1/8 and 3/16 I think. It comes with two screw in addapters. Pins are the easiest to use.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 06:50 PM
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still what is this..you said..

"I do use clear Ultra covering on the bottom of ARFs controls to fill the hinge gap though"

I have heard this many times, I do not understand it. Pics? video? If you fill the gap how does the control surface actuate?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gagallagher044 View Post
still what is this..you said..

"I do use clear Ultra covering on the bottom of ARFs controls to fill the hinge gap though"

I have heard this many times, I do not understand it. Pics? video? If you fill the gap how does the control surface actuate?
You iron on the covering onto the stab first then bend the control surface into the full up position, iron the covering into the gap then over the control surface. Now the gap is covered and the control will move up and down. When I cover a plane I do it in one piece and just run the covering over the gap, it's just doing the same thing only not adding a piece of covering over the gap. I do it top and bottom the same way. I can post a photo of that but all you see is the covering with a slight dent when it goes over the control. It just seals the gap and makes clean up easy, no oil ever gets to the wood. You need a photo?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:40 PM
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yup, i need a photo lol maybe a vid... lol
Hey gray beard what do you think I should throw in this bird for servo's? would I am thinking hitec HS-625MG in everything but the throttle. I will be using a 4.8v 2200 nimh rx pack. ( i think) I Would perfer to spend a little less on the servo's but not sure if I can find something suitable and dependable.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:46 PM
Garfield is my Pilot
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Man I would like a Revolver 70 Kit, I am done with Arf's. My 4*120 ARF lost a wing in flight and did a death spiral. Now I am in need of a replacement plane. The wing on the 4* is very crappy construction. I'll find the broken wing and get some pics of where it snapped off, the pieces I recovered are shattered, and not much can be made from them, the left wing is still intact, but busted up. The plane is a loss, and so is the ignition, and at least one servo. I dont know about the other aileron servo, its still in the other wing, I hope.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Gray Beard View Post
You iron on the covering onto the stab first then bend the control surface into the full up position, iron the covering into the gap then over the control surface. Now the gap is covered and the control will move up and down. When I cover a plane I do it in one piece and just run the covering over the gap, it's just doing the same thing only not adding a piece of covering over the gap. I do it top and bottom the same way. I can post a photo of that but all you see is the covering with a slight dent when it goes over the control. It just seals the gap and makes clean up easy, no oil ever gets to the wood. You need a photo?
It also makes recovering easier since you dont have to try to get the old covering out from between the control surfaces and stab, fin, or wings.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 11:27 PM
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Hi AC, sorry to hear about the 4*,. Any idea if it was one of the new ARFs sense SIG is under new ownership or could it have been one of the older originals?? The old ARFs from before they were bought out weren't very good but I haven't seen any of there new ones.
I have a HOTs I will be pulling down to charge up tomorrow so I will try to get some good photos of the one piece covering. I have a lot of work to be doing in the shop so it's isn't a problem. I think I may even have some How To photos in my other puter? Maybe. I will look.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 08:01 AM
Garfield is my Pilot
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It was an older one, and upon examination of the wreckage found the cause of the failure. The main spars had NO support whatsoever between the center rib and rib #4. There are two pieces of plywood in front and behind the main spar between C & 4 ribs that ribs 2 & 3 attach to, and neither of them had any glue on them connecting to the main spars. There is an aluminum joiner that slides in the box the spars and plywood make, and that joiner presses against the spars, and forced them away from the ribs during flight. The spars separated from the center rib and the wing snapped off at the fuse. All I have left of the right wing is the center rib, the portion where the bolt hold down is and the balsa sheeting that was against the fuse. the rest of it is still in the field somewhere.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:34 PM
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It was an older one, and upon examination of the wreckage found the cause of the failure. The main spars had NO support whatsoever between the center rib and rib #4. There are two pieces of plywood in front and behind the main spar between C & 4 ribs that ribs 2 & 3 attach to, and neither of them had any glue on them connecting to the main spars. There is an aluminum joiner that slides in the box the spars and plywood make, and that joiner presses against the spars, and forced them away from the ribs during flight. The spars separated from the center rib and the wing snapped off at the fuse. All I have left of the right wing is the center rib, the portion where the bolt hold down is and the balsa sheeting that was against the fuse. the rest of it is still in the field somewhere.
Well AC, that also told me why you also had a covering problem too. The older SIG ARFs were very poorley made and pretty much junk. In one post I was told they are now making the 120 kit again? Not real sure about that yet, I think it was you that told me.
Anyway, the last 4* kit I built while teaching kit building took us 6 days to build. It was a completely stock build too and my student was 70 years old and we spent 6 or 7 days building it, full 6 to 7 hour days though. I know how much you liked that plane so you may want to look into the kit and see if you can get the 120 and build your own so it doesn't fall apart on you. A couple weeks at your board and you will have a plane you can trust.
Just a thought???
I just picked up one of the ignitions for the DLE from HK. It was a group order and it only cost me $30.00 even with my share on the shipping. I wanted a new ignition for my Brison, I did have to install a new plug cap for it but I was lucky enough to have had the correct size cap on hand in my shop. For some reason it had an extra cap but it was the same size as the one that was already on the ignition?? Both for the CM-6?? Karol had sent me three caps of different sizes so I have a few on hand.
Gene
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:49 PM
Garfield is my Pilot
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Hi GB, no Sig isnt coming out with a new 4* ARF anytime soon, but they are looking for a manufacturer for them. I emailed SIG this morning and did get a reply. They will replace the arf with a kit and covering, so I can build one to replace this one. I just need to dig up the receipt for it and send it and my address for them to ship it to me.

On the ARF, I did post that an ARF was coming out soon, and it was the Ultimate I think. It was a Hanger 9 ARF.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:24 PM
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So, it's a fact, SIG is cutting the 120 size kit again? I'm amazed they will replace the ARF at all for you. These new owners are really doing a good job! I will have to look on there site and see what they have to offer these days. I'm back logged on building so won't be buying any new kits but I would like to see what SIG now has to offer.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:15 PM
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No the ARF not the kit, they are still producing the kit. The ARF for the 4* they are looking for someone to manufacture them, but the kits are still being made at the US location.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Covering in one piece to cover/fill the hinge gap is easy but you have to try it a few times. Because Ultra shrinks easier/better then Mono it's easier to do. I lay down the main color first and iron down the covering onto the TE of the wing in these photos to do the ailerons. I then slice the covering at the ailerons edges, then I pull the control down and do inside the gap then just pull it over the control surface and iron the covering down. I do it to both sides, It seals the hinge gap and and also makes clean up easier after a day of flying. I do it to all the control surfaces except the rudder. On the sides of the wing and aileron you may see the fillets of covering that I butt up to so there is no exposed wood.
With an ARF I just seal the gaps on the bottom. You just pull the control to the deflection so when sealed it will move freely up and down, Not a big thinker.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Thank Gray beard I will give it a shot.
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