Hope your going to put a scale prop on her after all this, the pup one should be near on the right diameter, they are the ones designed by Leo, and build up Into beautiful props, and fly well if the power system is picked to suit them. It would be a shame to have a horrible plastic prop hanging off the front of this!
http://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/category/propellors/

Craig

what a cool site - I was unaware that there was a "prop" company that made them, I was going to re-shape a "regular" wood prop - but I may pick one of these - Expensive to send to the US though - with shipping - it's almost a $60 U.S. for 1 prop - - - -

Originally Posted by Shnokey

Expensive to send to the US though - with shipping - it's almost a $60 U.S. for 1 prop - - - -

Those props are so light that shipping two props in the same package would probably cost the same as one prop. So order two props and you automatically cut the shipping cost per prop in half. Or you can order three and save even more.

Marvelous build. Putting so much scale detail in such a small airplane is an art that you seem to have mastered.

Larry

You must know my wife – That’s her shopping Philosophy – Hey, I used a 20% coupon on this $200 coat – Look at the money I saved you….

Originally Posted by trumps

Hope your going to put a scale prop on her after all this, the pup one should be near on the right diameter, they are the ones designed by Leo, and build up Into beautiful props, and fly well if the power system is picked to suit them. It would be a shame to have a horrible plastic prop hanging off the front of this!
http://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/category/propellors/

Craig

I'm just glad that somebody is making these again.

Thanks for the link Craig.

Hugh

Oh, and very inspiring build. Clever idea with the engine.

Wow, didn't realise how pricey they are thesedays, Leo used to do them about £6.00 in the 11" size, oh well times change, I hope he is getting some return on the effort he put in designing them! I have been running an 11.4 x 11.6 mahogany one one my pup for the last 3 years and couldn't be happier with it, very strong which is handy with the models tendency to nose over. And looks the part, especially as it is only spinning at about 3000rpm on my setup.

Craig

Beautiful work shnok, especially the instrument panel.

Kim

Thanks! - Added the cheek cowls today - used light ply as the inner formers instead of the balsa ones - it adds to the "bow" effect of the cowl, and keeps the area open for the radio equipment - added a "fake" gas tank behind the seat so when I sheet the upper fuselage front, I can make a hole for the fuel filler and main gas tank filler and you will see the aluminum and copper tape. - More to follow

The rear tank former

I wish I could do details like that. Fantastic work! Now if you can just find a little pilot to fly it for you...

Quite outstanding!
Robert

Now I know why they called it a "Camel" - - - Added and rough sanded all of the cowl and front sheeting, seems like most of the cockpit work I did is now hidden - go figure - finishing the wings with scale bracing and such, I still have to finish the wing attachment points on the fuselage, final sanding and primer base coat - then add all of the details to the fuselage, we are getting there....

finishing up before covering - all of the exits for the control cables are complete - scale locations with small plastic tubing used for "steel cables" to guide the thread -

Finished all of the fuselage and wing attachments, wire routing and control surface controls, and completed the tail skid and shock cord - I spent the last few days finishing the motor, and it’s looks factory new – we will take care of that when we weather everything – Ready for covering and primer coat for the fuselage – then it’s time for the details – from inspection covers to nuts and bolts – goal is to have it complete by 2013 - +/- 10 days or so This Mayan "end of the world" thing threw me off a little - Guess I have to deliver now -

Messing around over the holiday week – I finished the fuselage, cowl, rigging and I have to cover the bottom of the lower wing before Install the aileron servos. I wanted to try a new (to me) way of adding rib-stitching to the ribs without having to paint and seal it. Normally, I would make the rib tapes using a method I learned here – where you cut grooves in a board, (1/4 inch in this case) put down a sheet of covering and add the thread cross-wise on the board, and glue it or Dope the thread down. Then cut the tapes out and glue or Dope over the rib on TOP of the covering, then seal the tape down with clear paint, dope or other sealant. I did not want to add the weight of coats of sealer over CoverLite, as that is already sealed and ready to go. So what I did was make the CoverLite “sheet” of rib tapes with three coats of tinted shellac. This makes it look like antique wood. Then I glued the rib tapes right on to the ribs before covering, and then I covered the wing with CoverLite. The texture and darker color come through the top covering, without any sealing or tape issues. Looks like it works for what I wanted it for. With a 1/9 scale model, heavy and thick rib tapes (IMO) make it look too toy like – this will add the essence of texture without too much “over modeling” - again – in the eye of the beholder.