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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:52 PM
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Melbourne, Australia
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Jeeeeeeeesus!

I would have approached this differently (Started with a sheet floor), but with the same goal in mind.

Great job!

Hugh

BTW, where did you get your instrument bezels?
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 07:00 PM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
Joined May 2004
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Hey Hugh -

The seat floor will also be wicker - but added in after it's woven on it's own rigging - I wanted to get the seat back shape and weaving correct, then tackle the seat bottom. It's easier that way -

Anyone can get great instrument bezels for free like I did - From the Gun range - I shoot for sport - and there was a bucket of all different calibers of brass shell casings - .45 to 9 mm -also, if you look closely at the panel I made, the three switch covers are .22 rim fire cartridges with the firing pin dent. There are many ways to use spent ammo cartridges, this was just one of them - Free brass tubing
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 07:04 PM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
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A better view of a seat bottom from a Camel - The bottom I'm looking to make -
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 03:43 AM
Tally Ho Chaps!
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United Kingdom, England, Ipswich
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Amazing craftsmanship there Shnokey, the basket work is awesome.
I'm following a couple of Aerodrome threads at the moment. Seriously considering one of their kits for my next project. I'll be following your build with great interest!
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Subscribed...I'll have to post my OV-10 when I get rolling on it.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 07:47 AM
AKA Jon Rider
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Seat finished - one light coat of Shellac and a leather top seat finish - and we are ready to fly - well ready to continue the cockpit anyway -
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:02 AM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chompwat View Post
Amazing craftsmanship there Shnokey, the basket work is awesome.
I'm following a couple of Aerodrome threads at the moment. Seriously considering one of their kits for my next project. I'll be following your build with great interest!
Thank you - Aerodrome kits are well engineered and go together very well - You will not be sorry with any choice you make from the VAST selection -
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:23 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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beautiful work mate, i am always amazed at the patience of you guys that can build a full blown cockpit, it's beyond me!

Cheers
Craig
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 09:54 AM
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New Boston, Texas, United States
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I love your seat. How did you make it? My N17 is crying out for one. If weight alows. Can you give us an explanation of how you made it?

Jim
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:32 AM
AKA Jon Rider
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Although the Sopwith Camel said 'wicker' for the seats, I found cane was the more normal material for the times, as seen in the 1917 AGS catalog. With additional research and my “artistic” interpretations against an original seat at the Kent Battle of Britain Museum at Hawkinge.

I used the two attached images for my measurements – and started from there.
1) I purchased a bag full of straw (cane, grass mix) and a bag of paper coated wire from the local craft store – about $3.00 US total
2) I mocked up a seat based on 1/9 scale measurements from the original drawings – and fit it in the fuselage to ensure I was on the right track. Sometimes, “real” measurements do not fit a smaller model – like rivets and panel lines, sometimes you have to make them bigger or smaller to ensure the “look’ is more accurate than the exact measurements.
3) I pulled the paper off the wire and wrapped a 2’ length tightly with the “straw” – which I will call “wicker” going forward – See close-up picture
4) Once wrapped, I bent it to shape to the same measurements as my test subject, and glued together with CA.
5) The next step, I wrapped the lower back and the upper back with the vertical supports, using the count, and angles on the plans and reference photos. (see image below) take your time on this, and use thin strings to ensure they don’t bunch up.
6) I began the weave on the lower back first. Inside two, outside two, inside two, outside two – across the back, then REVERSE the weave going back – so you get a tight two strand weave.
7) Don’t worry if it looks loose, after three or four rows, you can use a needle to pull it together – like a weaving loom, you tighten in and pull tight the strands –
8) I did about 20 rows back and forth, and tightened it together so it was parallel to the bottom of the seat, and tacked it in place with CA
9) The same pattern on the top back with one MAJOR difference. You use the opposite threads to pull together so you get a nice “V” shape in the weave. See the images – Take your time on this – don’t miss a stitch, or you will see the gap in the work – it took me a full afternoon just to weave the back of the chair. See image with RED notes (Ed Note: Perfectionists will say it should have a double cross back, some will say a triple cross back (based on the 1st image), and others a single cross back - I made a single cross back based on multiple reasons, and I had reference images with a single cross back to go by)
10) When you are done weaving the back, tack all sides in the CA so the wicker threads do not slip.
11) The base was done on a separate jig I made (4” X 4” Balsa) and I just did a standard weave pattern – spread the threads across one way, and used a needle to “weave” the opposite direction. – sorry, no images on that, but it is the same pattern you did as a child making Mum a potholder - called a one strand weave.
12) When you have a weaved patch larger than your seat bottom, then place your chair on top of your weave patch, and draw the exact measurements of the inside on the chair right on the weave you just made. Now you have the exact size of your seat bottom.
13) Use some CA on the back of your full seat bottom drawing a bead along the line you just drew so the wicker is tightly glued together.
14) Cut out the seat bottom along the glued line you made , and glue in place on the chair.
15) Trim up all the little pieces of wicker that are sticking out, and top off with a small piece of leather for the padding –
16) One thinned coat of Shellac and four little metal holding straps.

Practice weaving on your seat bottom rig before you start the chair to get the hang of it.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Thanks for that description.

Jim
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Madison, WI
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Schnokey,
You're an artist, just beautiful! Subscribed
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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WoW! Love it great job

Pete
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 02:03 PM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMA View Post
Thanks for that description.

Jim
When you make yours - feel free to ask ANY questions - I will help the best I can.....
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:16 PM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
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Control column in place - with blip switch and gun triggers - remember - this will be hooked up the the elevator and aileron and move with the controls - The rudder bar (next in line) will operate the rudder - so all the controls but the fuel and mixture will be fully operational.
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