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Old Sep 30, 2012, 01:44 PM
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jhicks's Avatar
Joined Jan 2005
290 Posts
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Building table for precise indoor foamies??

Hey guys,

When i moved from Ohio to Texas I lost my building table. I was curious what you guys are using to build your indoor pattern planes on.
Im trying to find something. Really would like just a light board I can pickup and move.

What are you guys using?

Thanks,
Jamie Hicks
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 04:33 PM
I think I'm inverted. Maybe.
acetech09's Avatar
United States, CA, Pacifica
Joined Apr 2012
1,509 Posts
I do most of my builds on a sacrificial 3/4" OC pink foam insulation sheet. You can get a huge-ass sheet of it for about $18 at home depot, and that cuts down into 2 good-size boards. It doesn't get damaged too easily, glues normally peel right off the plastic film, and you don't damage your knife when you cut through what you're cutting. Really handy.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 11:45 PM
Fly for God, not for the World
Not Free's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined Sep 2011
140 Posts
I use a cork board, a wood desk, and a wood floor
I do NOT recommend either of these options


Not Free
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 02:27 AM
WWII combat fan
mammuth's Avatar
Huddersfield
Joined Jul 2008
158 Posts
Just stay away from any brand new table you just bought for your living room - I think you can see were I'm going with it .....
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:43 AM
RC Bum 4 Hire
ChrisBowker's Avatar
United States, NM, Albuquerque
Joined May 2004
1,150 Posts
I think you'll have difficulties finding something portable and true. I bought an old pool table off craigslist, pulled the slate off it and built a new frame from 3/4" birch ply to hold two of the pieces end to end, it made a 32x98" table, perfect for most RC building needs...but its about 300-400 lbs put together so not very portable.

If you need a lighter weight solution you might try looking for a solid core door, I use to build on one when I was a kid, worked fine for a lot of years.

Chris
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 04:13 PM
Registered User
Warsaw & Gdynia, Poland
Joined Sep 2005
204 Posts
I just use a MDF 40x40" (1mx1m) 1 inch thick board placed on normal table. It is very true after 4 years of being used and when you just finish building planes you put the board between a wardrobe and wall
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:04 PM
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tware's Avatar
Little Rock, AR
Joined Nov 2005
258 Posts
not really a master builder here, but I really like this stainless steel table I got at Sams Club. It's a prep table on wheels. It has a very thick top, not prone to warp or bend. the bottom shelf is wire. most of all, I can wheel it around, which as been convenient (moving it out of the way).

oh, found the link. I've purchased these for tech benches at work too, they have always been under $100 in store, regardless what the website says.
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/work-ta...p-49/145625.ip
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Little Rock, AR
Joined Nov 2005
258 Posts
Also worth mentioning, CA doesn't readily bond to it. When CA leaks through the joint I'm gluing, I can always slide it free without damage to the foam. often its hardly stuck at all. And I can clean the table with acetone when it gets really messy. Only downside is working with electronics and batteries on a steel table, but that's not really a big deal.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:08 PM
Boar? I'm a Thermal Pig!
Batmanwpg's Avatar
Winnipeg, Canada
Joined Aug 2004
916 Posts
Probably not what your looking for but I use an old heavy metal business desk. The top is very flat and has metal under the plastic skin top. This allows me to use magnets to hold parts in place when building. This is very helpful when building foamies. The magnets are from damaged brushless motors not worthy of repair. You can get a lot of magnets from just one motor and plenty strong enough to hold parts in place.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:04 AM
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xtremeRCpilot's Avatar
Cleveland, Ohio
Joined Sep 2006
640 Posts
I use a piece of 1/2" plate glass about 30" x 48" and it is about as true of a surface as you will find. I robbed it off an old table topper we had and just use a razor to remove any CA from the surface. Im sure you could find one a little bigger but I have built up to 36" wing span foamies on mine. You could also wrap it in cardboard if you need to transport it to hobby venues

Cheers
John
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 03:10 PM
Late
Hubb's Avatar
Lebanon, OH
Joined Oct 2003
301 Posts
I use a piece of 3/4" Lexan approx 2' x 4' (about the size of a ceiling tile)
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:12 PM
Senior to who? Member
crossup's Avatar
Annapolis, Maryland USA
Joined Feb 2001
2,450 Posts
I use two pieces of 1"x 18"x 48" laminated(real wood, not pressboard etc) counter top(Homedepot).
Then I clamp the two pieces side by side with a 3mm gap using two 36" pieces of 2" steel angle iron(also HD) and large C-clamps.
That gives me a slot to hang the fuselage halves thru. Once the foam is all glued I do the CF bracing on the bottom on the wing and tail and fuselage while the top hangs down thru the slot.

To keep from gluing things to the board, I use Towerhobby building table film...nothing sticks to that stuff and a 25' roll is pretty cheap.

Oh and I use a HD 'Workmate' clone portable carpentry table to set the above assemblly on.
The clamps hold the split table above the Workmate table and gives me plenty of depth for tall fuselage to hang down(the Workmate frequently isn't deep enough by itself, if the fuse isnt too long of deep you can just use the workmate by itself but you will have a lot of overhang of the wings so I use my split table for every build.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 03:09 PM
"Free" in Christ!
Free's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined Jan 2012
863 Posts
Right now I am using a big sheet of 1/4" plastic.

Free
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 02:18 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
1,160 Posts
3/4" thick fiberglass skin, nomex core honeycomb panel... pretty darn hard to beat that. Kinda hard to find though...
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Joined Jan 2005
290 Posts
yes i know rj.
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