LG, On my Quadcopter ,KK2.0 lcd board, why does my lcd screen read "CPPM" instead of "ESC CALIBRATION" ? fumbling through all the posts, the only thing i find, is that I may have a newer version 1.2.(??) Does this mean that i do not have to calibrate the esc's? hobby king makes no mention about this "new version" on their site. If this is indeed a newer version, with no esc calibration, i'm sure more people are going to want to know about it, when they get to the screen that reads CPPM, and don't know what it means... Any info would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Paul

Originally Posted by paulfromphoenix

LG, On my Quadcopter ,KK2.0 lcd board, why does my lcd screen read "CPPM" instead of "ESC CALIBRATION" ? fumbling through all the posts, the only thing i find, is that I may have a newer version 1.2.(??) Does this mean that i do not have to calibrate the esc's? hobby king makes no mention about this "new version" on their site. If this is indeed a newer version, with no esc calibration, i'm sure more people are going to want to know about it, when they get to the screen that reads CPPM, and don't know what it means... Any info would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Paul

The CPPM stands for Combined-PPM and is an option that the kk2.0 board supports. Basically it allows you to connect receivers, such as those from FrSky that have a ppm output, using only one input instead of having to connect a separate cable for each channel.

You still have to calibrate the ESCs!

Here is what KapteinKuk wrote about the new firmware:

New FW for the KK2.

CHANGES:

1: Removed: LCD contrast adjustment: Not necessary.

2: Removed: "I of PI" on/off mode: No practical use found.

3: Removed: I part of self-level: Does not work with slow reacting ACC.

4: Changed: default gains to 50/50/50 (roll/pitch/yaw) P-term, and 25, 25, 50 I-term.

5: Added: beep (short beep, 2 sec delay) when armed and throttle closed, for extra safety. Makes the KK2 a bit more noisy when armed so the user does not forget it is armed.

6: Added: longer arm/disarm beep.

7: Added: ACC trim. Use it to adjust self-level attitude, no need to recalibrate sensors. Adjust in "Self-level Settings" menu.

8: Added: factory reset.

9: Added: status messages on the "SAFE" screen. The KK2 will not arm unless it says "OK.". Error messages can only be reset by cycling the power, except for the "sensors not calibrated" message, which is reset after a successful sensor calibration. Error messages include lost RX connection.

10: Bug fix: wrong offset in flying wing mix table.

11: Changed: doubled self-level stick response. Let you have more control in self-level mode.

12: Added: CPPM (sum PPM) mode. Turned on/off in "Mode Settings" menu. Also the assignments of the CPPM channels can be changed in "CPPM Settings".

13: Added: Y4 and V-tail layout.

14: Added: shows battery voltage on the "SAFE" screen.

15: Added: lost aircraft alarm. Starts to beep (1 sec on and 4 sec off) after 30min of no activity (arm/disarm).

16: Added: LP filter on servo outputs. Adjust in "Misc. Settings". A good start value is 50.

17: Added: auto-disarm. The KK2 will disarm itself after 20 sec if throttle is at idle. For extra safety. Can be turned on/off in "Mode Settings" menu.

Download it below. You only need the "kk2.hex" file. The source is also included, with a license.

REMOVE PROPELLERS BEFORE FLASHING!!!11one0x31

Originally Posted by lovegroove

Having the props raised like that won't cause any problems, there's already quite a few frames with a design like that.

The NAZA is more expensive because it offers more features. You can upgrade it to have GPS, which will allow it to hold position or even return to home if you have a failsafe.

The difference between x and + is just to do with which direction is forward. This picture should make it more clear:

Thanks for your help

But does the GPS and extra features justify a such large gap in price between them?

I mean, you can get a gps module for the KK2.0 board as well, but i am aware that the quality is different.

You can NOT get a GPS for KK2. You can't even get a barometer. You are stuck with Gyro and Accelerometer with the KK2 and thats it.

The NAZA costs so much because there is a flood of RC enthusiasts who want a Multi-rotor, but do not want the headache of configuring the hardware. NAZA is a plug-n-play option, with very little you can do to customize it. You just connect it, click a couple buttons on your PC, and go out and fly it.

They are capitalizing on the market, you can get the exact same features a NAZA offers, at 1/4 the price if you are willing to do some leg-work and spend a couple days (or weeks) fine tuning the software.

ahh that was what i wanted to hear I am more of a DIY kinda guy, so research and fine tuning is what i enjoy most

If you want all of the features of the Naza + more for about a quarter of the price, have a look at the Crius AIO board. It can run multiwii and MegapirateNG firmware. I mention it in my blog about the mid-range multicopter: http://drone-pilot.blogspot.fr/2012/...lticopter.html

I want to know about everything there is to know about trimming. In what situations should one adjust the trim, what does trim do, and what is a throttle curve.

Trim your model so that when you let go of the sticks it doesn't drift left, right, forward or backwards or doesn't spin in any direction. You should do this on a day when there's no wind.

For throttle curves, this article really explains it well: http://multicopterworld.com/2011/04/...hrottle-curve/

I went to Large Scale helicopter meeting today and my friend was there with his Vortex-8 doing the aerial video for the event. I took the opportunity to take a couple of snaps of it and hope to being writing an article about it soon.

Originally Posted by lovegroove

I don't think you can learn to fly from watching a video or reading an article. You've pretty much just got to get out there and do it.

Thanks so much for the advice. Got everything squared away on my build and went out and flew my first multi-rotor.

Here are a few of my observations/comments for any other n00bs (I think I graduated from n00b to beginner!) who haven't yet flown:

1. Watching some videos really helped me understand some common trouble points when I experienced them firsthand. (One of my props was upside down and the yaw servo on my tri needed to be reversed.)
2. You can't have too much space. I got into the most trouble when I got too close to trees...whoops.
3. Simulators help you with your orientation, but the simulator is tuned much better than real-life.
4. You will crash a lot. Protect your electronics, and check for broken zip-ties or disconnected cables after every decent crash.
5. Buy a lot of propellers.

I've flown about three batteries at this point. I have not played with many of the KK2 v1.2 settings yet, beyond setting some parameters based on other posts. I'm attributing my inability to generally hover and make it go where I want on inexperience versus setup, but i think I'll start gently changing some parameters after another couple flights.

Congratulations on your first flight, getting to this point is the hardest step and it's all downhill from here.

http://drone-pilot.blogspot.fr/

LG, how do i calibrate the ESC's, when I can't find it on the screen, where CPPM is now?
Sorry I sound so dumb at this, but that's what noobs are....LOL thanks Pau

LG, First thanks for the great thread! We (noobs) really needed this. And congrats on the new contract.
I recently began using a HK i-86 board on a fixed-wing for stability. It looks like it should work as a controller on a multi-copter. Do you think it would?
You recommend an A10 board which has the potential to work with a GPS. I have a GPS antenna which works with my Remzibi OSD. Would that antenna plug into A10?

Originally Posted by paulfromphoenix

LG, how do i calibrate the ESC's, when I can't find it on the screen, where CPPM is now?
Sorry I sound so dumb at this, but that's what noobs are....LOL thanks Pau

The Calibration instructions are no longer in KK2 v1.2, but the calibration method is still the same.

Calibrate ESC's using the KK2 Board (0 min 50 sec)

can I adjust the pots on my HK Multi-Rotor Control Board V2.1 while the power is on or do I have to disconnect the power each adjustment?