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Old Oct 07, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Right Thrust: Btw - a frequent "adjustment" to the SSE is adding right thrust to the firewall during the build. Many builders move the left side of the firewall forward 1/8" or the right side back 1/8". This will help eliminate the need for adding washers between the firewall and the motor mount when you trim your plane.

J-Hook: Another well debated issue is whether to use the SIG "J" hook asis or replace the approach with one that uses 1/4x20 nylon bolts (or other sizes). The "J" hook works fine. Some use a zip tie instead of the standard rubber band approach.

Phenolic tube: The brown tube that is inserted into the wings and glued between the fuse sides is the phenolic tube. Sometimes you'll find that the piece in the fuse "gets in the way". This part of the tubing is there simply to act as a bushing for the aluminum wing tube - not for structural integrity (this is from Mike the SSE designer). You can cut out pieces to make routing wires, servo arms, control rods as you see fit.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Actually I think you picked a GREAT model for a first build. While not the easiest the parts fit is excellent and better yet it flies wonderfully! So I applaud your choice.

Second on glues - I have been doing this a LONG time and here is the way I generally select glue.

CA is awesome stuff and works well for nice tight balsa to balsa joints. I use it when in a hurry too. I DO NOT like using it for balsa to other wood - including ply. It works OK with lite ply but the joint it creates is brittle.

So balsa to lite ply I like to use plain old wood glue. Titebond or Elmers. It is cheap and works well but MUST be clamped.

I also use this when I do sheeting too. That gives time to move stuff around.

I use epoxy for balsa to aircraft ply. It is super strong and holds well. I also use epoxy for wood to metal stuff. I also use it for joining wing panels - but you don't have to worry about that with this plane.

I use epoxy for attaching the canopy to the fuse too - very light amounts needed. One thing to remember - epoxy is HEAVY so use it sparingly.

Wood glue is great stuff and cheap - don't be afraid to use it! It is my preferred for most build - unless in a hurry and I use CA's (thin and medium). I never use kicker/accelerators.

You are going to love this plane.

Mike
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:04 AM
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Tank Hatch: Many builders like the idea of adding a hatch that allows you access to the fuel tank. Mostly a "just in case" feature.

Glue: When you do use a water based glue like Elmer's or Titebond, keep it fully weighted until it cures to avoid warping.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:48 AM
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SeamusG, great link and you must be reading my mind those five questions were coming up in the thread!
Mike your quite right, I have experienced much the same results with CA glues, I like the epoxy applications and going to try the wood glue today. One great thing the Hobby has taught me is patience; one of life’s lessons I didn’t adhere too (no pun intended)! Seems everyone is noticing the change and I tell them I only have the hobby to blame. As Martha Stewart use to say, “It’s a good thing”!

Thanks…

Michael
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Keepin' things clean: I went with a built up cowl for two reasons - keepin' the looks clean and with the muffler "down under" and with the exhaust outlet pointed down helps keep the 2-stroke "slime" away from the bottom / sides of the plane.

Reinforcing the J-Hook anchor: Many add a blind nut to the root rib. Might consider "capturing" a nylock nut (embedded nylon that acts like a locking washer) to keep the J-hook secure.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Last "unsolicited comment"

Sheeting the turtle deck: Many have tried using 1/16" sheeting. Fingers find their way up there when you're carrying it around. Easy to crack unless you leave the stringers in place. It's not simply wrapping a piece of balsa sheeting over the formers as there's a subtle compound curve involved.

Have fun and let the creative juices flow ...

What do you have in mind for a covering scheme????
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 04:38 PM
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I would vote no on the sheeting the turtle deck - just keep your mits from out of there. The light weight of the SE is something good. Sheeting just adds weight.

JMHO...

Mike
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Hi,

Lots of great ideas here and I got a lot of time till the spring. I like the wing bolt, and hatch mods, but the cowling is the best with the side engine mount but looks like a real challenge. Would there be an after-market product available? I have an OS 46AX on my Hobbico SuperStar 40 and saving my OS 55AX for my Hobbico 60 (ARF) build. Both are going to be valuable players come my training in the spring.

So what should I be looking for this SIG SE?

I got the rolls for the color scheme, violet on white, homage to the family tree, LOL!

Appreciate all the help you’re giving me here…

Michael
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 09:34 PM
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Good evening,

I got my shear webs installed and the first wing sheet glued to the leading edge.

I tried out some of the CA tips and applicators that are available, and I liked this one pictured below; easy to fill from the bottles, accurate and no drips.

I picked-up the colored head pins at the Dollar Store and proved very useful.

The Master Airscrew - Razor Plane, made child’s play at beveling the TE, two passes and a light sanding was all it took (I practiced on a scrap piece first). I understand triangle stock is a good choice?

My bad, I had thought I had squared the first wing sheeting, but I found I was a few of mms off about half way to the fuselage. Rather than trying to unglue the sheet at the LE; I opt to add to the spar and continued on. What’s your say on this blunder?

I wet-clothed the top of the wing sheet and weigh it down before gluing it. This really helped form the sheet for a great fit. I tried my hand with the wood glue for this and I like using it!

Thank my lucky stars I’m married to an Italian, have a lot of cans of tomato juice on hand!

I'm still not overly confident, always second guessing and sometimes I forget it’s a hobby!

Thanks…

Michael
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 08:44 AM
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J-hook, Cowl & Muffler

SeamusG,

Now, I see from your pic, how those J-hooks are used and the cable tie to hold the wings in place. I see some glue a nylon nut in lieu of the J-hook, why not a blind nut?
That's an awesome job you did on the cowl and I see you used the original stock muffler, so there is really no need for the Pitts Style muffler other than cosmetics, yes?
Thanks for the color scheme plans, I'd like to checker board the rudder but covering will be a whole lesson in itself. Just have to get a hold of a trim sealing iron; I have the full sized one.

Thanks...

Michael
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Violets View Post
SeamusG,

Now, I see from your pic, how those J-hooks are used and the cable tie to hold the wings in place. I see some glue a nylon nut in lieu of the J-hook, why not a blind nut?


Thanks...

Michael
Awesome idea - just what I did on my build. Then used a turn/thumb screw - much easier IMHO.

Mike
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Blind nut works fine. Maybe a bit of blue Loctite to keep the J hook in place when the wings are not mounted. Just thinking that the hooks might rattle around a bit and fall out.

My first SSE lost a wing in a high rate roll 'cause I used a 1/4x20 nylon bolt instead of the J-hook. It had vibrated loose during the 1st flight of the day. During the 2nd flight it just came out into the fuse and the wing, having a mind of its own, decided NOT to roll with the rest of the plane. Bleccchhhh ...

Our field is at 5900 feet so our engines are running at 75% the power of most of you. I've used an OS46AX with an APC 12.25 x 3.75 prop and it's total giggles-n-grins flying! We have a member that put a Saito 115 on the nose of his. Can you say unlimited vertical?
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamusG View Post
Blind nut works fine. Maybe a bit of blue Loctite to keep the J hook in place when the wings are not mounted. Just thinking that the hooks might rattle around a bit and fall out.

My first SSE lost a wing in a high rate roll 'cause I used a 1/4x20 nylon bolt instead of the J-hook. It had vibrated loose during the 1st flight of the day. During the 2nd flight it just came out into the fuse and the wing, having a mind of its own, decided NOT to roll with the rest of the plane. Bleccchhhh ...

Our field is at 5900 feet so our engines are running at 75% the power of most of you. I've used an OS46AX with an APC 12.25 x 3.75 prop and it's total giggles-n-grins flying! We have a member that put a Saito 115 on the nose of his. Can you say unlimited vertical?
No locktite - it is into wood.

In over 35+ years of flying I have never seen a nylon bolt work all the way out - ever. That includes times when I only hand tightened wing bolts!

Mike
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:01 PM
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And I've never seen a mid-air - though I think that they do happen ...
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 08:49 PM
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Good evening,

Made a little more progress the other night, TE sheet, center sheet and rib caps.

Should I be concerned with the uncapped section of the forward top spar?

Thanks…

Michael
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