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Old Sep 29, 2012, 07:18 PM
Student-Can't Fly Yet
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Canada, QC, Montreal
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Hi,

This is my very first kit and it will soon be winter up here; so I’m looking forward to having it completed for the New Year. I started out this afternoon by reading through the instruction book, marking the laser-cut parts and looking over the hardware.
I’ll have to go out and get some ¼” ridge construction foam that I can lay the plans on. Also, waiting on the last of the building accessories (i.e. T-pins, Easy-Touch sanders, etc.) to be delivered.

Could sure use all of your help and advice, here’s the building clinic I discovered today, check-it out;

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1704076

Michael
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 07:38 PM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
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Awesome plane. Love the SSE and looking forward to your build.

Frank
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 07:52 PM
Student-Can't Fly Yet
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Apr 2012
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Good evening,

Well I knew this kit was not the best choice for a first build; so it’s going be a little tougher, longer road ahead. I finding myself reading over the instructions several times to get accustom to the terminology and how the lay-outs of the plans work. I decided it best to do a wing at a time and began dry fitting the parts in place (no glue-no harm). It’s good to read a few steps ahead to ensure the previous ones don’t turn into a Charlie Foxtrot, LOL!

Couple of questions;

Glues (Medium/Thick)
When parts are pinned in place is it best to apply glue to both sides of contact (when is it too much)?
Should I always be using the accelerator?
I’m finding the thick glue just too thick; does the wood absorb it more because of the drying time?

Laminated Spars
Note on the second pic that the laminated spar over runs the plan; I’m guessing I’ll be cutting off the excess later on in the instructions?

Servos
I’ll be using standard servos, but the great debate is which ones I should be considering to upgrade for reliability and performance; Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator and/or Throttle?

Tools
Triangle, I did not expect I would need one that small.

Thanks…

Michael
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:22 PM
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No worries, we'll get you through this. Answers below.

Q When parts are pinned in place is it best to apply glue to both sides of contact (when is it too much)?

A If you can get to one side of the joint (or both) I apply the glue to one side if using med to thick CA or Titebond. If using thin CA, I wick the CA into the joints. For other than thin CA which disappears, you will know too much is too much when you get a lot of squeeze out.

Q Should I always be using the accelerator?

A I never use accelerator. Some folks do. I'm patient and clamp my joints.

Q I’m finding the thick glue just too thick; does the wood absorb it more because of the drying time?

A I use Med and thin CA and Titebond II. The wood does absorb thick CA but not much of it. Not like the thinner CAs.

Laminated Spars
Q Note on the second pic that the laminated spar over runs the plan; I’m guessing I’ll be cutting off the excess later on in the instructions?

A I suspect you will. But keep it for now just in case. You can always trim it when you are sure.

Servos
Q I’ll be using standard servos, but the great debate is which ones I should be considering to upgrade for reliability and performance; Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator and/or Throttle?


A. Folks like to have the rudder & nose wheel on a bigger servo, but I think those 425's will be fine.

Frank
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 06:07 PM
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Thank-you Frank for the reassurance and great tips; we have a long Thanksgiving Weekend coming up, I’ll let you know how I progressed.

Michael
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Violets View Post
When parts are pinned in place is it best to apply glue to both sides of contact (when is it too much)?
Should I always be using the accelerator?
I’m finding the thick glue just too thick; does the wood absorb it more because of the drying time?
Thin CA will wick all the way through a joint, so usually one side is enough.
Apply till it stops absorbing and starts to pool is too much, practice to get a feel for how to make joints with thin CA.
Accelerator makes a weaker joint, avoid it if possible.
Thick CA is for repairs and bad joinery, try to make better fitting joints that can be glued with thin CA and followup with white glue/aliphatic.



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Originally Posted by The Violets View Post
Laminated Spars
Note on the second pic that the laminated spar over runs the plan; I’m guessing I’ll be cutting off the excess later on in the instructions?
If the instructions don't mention to trim it, leave it on till it gets in the way of some future assembly, then it will be obvious that it needs to be trimmed, and how.


Quote:
Originally Posted by The Violets View Post
I’ll be using standard servos, but the great debate is which ones I should be considering to upgrade for reliability and performance; Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator and/or Throttle?
This depends on your flying skill level more than anything. What's your level?

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Originally Posted by The Violets View Post
Triangle, I did not expect I would need one that small.
Acquiring tools is an infinite problem. Welcome to the dark side.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:30 PM
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Hi everyone,

Long weekend here and managed to get a couple of hours in today. I’m very hesitant; but building momentum. The balance of supplies came in the other day, from Hobby Hobby, a great shop in Ontario. Started with getting the aileron mounts cut to size and drilled, for the servos I’ll be using, Hitec HS-425BB.
The thin CA is much better to work with; along with the Pro-CA tips it delivers the right amount in the right place! I’m glad I started with a wing at a time, allows easy moving of the foam insulation board giving different angles to work at.
Thanks mnowell129, following the instructions is the best advice, and I won’t be cutting anything off until I sure, LOL! I spent the last several months learning as much as I can about all aspects of the hobby, with the exception of hooking up with someone for flight instruction. Built my first foamie (GP Extra 330sc), put together a Hobbico SuperStar 40 (ARF) from Tower Hobbies, my SIG Mini-Boss, and broke-in my first engine, an OS 46 AX. Just recently, I did manage to try everything out including the new A-9, I decided as my best bet for a transmitter.
If I succeed with this build, I’ll have an instructor at the club take it up in the spring.

Thanks, try and have a good weekend…

Michael
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 03:35 PM
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#44 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> “SIG Somethin' Extra”

Hi,

Glued the TE and LE in place, so I had to pin (1”) through the balsa to hold it in place, being careful not to split the wood?
When beginning the wing sheeting; should I be using the thick CA to bead each rib to ensure ample drying time during fitting?

Thanks

Michael
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Don't think you need to use thick CA for that? Thin should be fine. Thick is more of a gap filling glue. I may be wrong so anybody chime in.

Are you just worried about the glue setting too quick?

Robert
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 06:48 PM
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Yes Robert, its the setting time.
Michael
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:04 PM
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When beginning the wing sheeting; should I be using the thick CA to bead each rib to ensure ample drying time during fitting?
l
I use white glue when I'm worried about setting time. Thick CA will still cure sitting in a bead. Then you have a lumpy surface and no glue joint. I'd get everything all ready, CA the sheeting at the spar, run a bead of white glue down each rib, then tack down with thin CA at the LE.
CA isn't perfect for every joint.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:04 PM
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If you already have everything pinned and is straight thin should be fine? What about medium? I guess it really doesn't matter as long as its glues correctly. You could try it on a test piece and see how it works for you.

My other plane I did I used Titebond for the whole thing but the one I'm doing for the clinic is all CA. This plane is a lot lighter and smaller so I just make sure it is in place straight when I wick in the thin. I've messed up a couple times and removed the piece with some debonder. I had a little gap in a spot so used thick to fill it and secure it.

Robert


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Yes Robert, its the setting time.
Michael
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 08:07 PM
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HI,

Thanks for the prompt replies, I have both the Medium CA and Carpenter's Glue, it's a good time to test-out both methods; a great learning curve.

Michael
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Yeah I think I have about every kind of glue there is. They all have different applications for sure.

With all this stuff you learn as you go and get some great tips along the way.

Robert
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 10:44 AM
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For more info on adhesives check out AirfieldModels - Adhesives page

Carpenter's glue is an aliphatic resin - water based. When using it on a butt joint with an exposed end grain, apply glue to the end grain, let it absorb into the grain, let it sit for 10 minutes or more then apply it again for the final glue up of the joint. How much is enough? Apply it, wipe it off with your finger. What is left is enough.

Btw - there are a ton of build threads over on the darkside (RC Universe). Plenty of great pics.
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