|Nov 13, 2012, 12:27 PM|
Thanks very much VR Flyer!
I'll look into these goodies... Good thing I have a solid amateur radio background. I also have worked on novel antenna ideas over the years. May come up with a more solid link option down the road. Who knows?!
Very cool stuff though! I'll also look into the panning options. I may need a better or more elaborate TX for that stuff (currently using a DX6i).
Cheers and safe flying!
|Nov 13, 2012, 12:46 PM|
You love antennas, you must meet IBcrazy if you don't know him already. He is the God of the antennas!
Clover leaf are very popular: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1388264
I think Spironet antenna that I suggest above are inspired by Clover leaf from IBCrazy
|Nov 13, 2012, 01:37 PM|
Nice to meet another fellow ham op! N0NCO here. I also enjoy designing & building antennas. If you're interested, check out my QRZ page for a few pics of my latest 160-10m HF antenna.
Thanks for taking the time to post your UM FPV setup in such detail. I've also been thinking about using the UMX Carbon Cub as an FPV platform. Any thoughts?
|Nov 13, 2012, 02:57 PM|
I also have a Carbon Cub on order, I will install FPV gear of course. I will post it on this thread when done with severals photos. It will be the same setup as my Beast, the cam install in the cabin on panning servo control via my headtracker. Only one lipo to power everything onboard.
About it, I will post in the next days detail explanation of my Beast. How to modify servo for extra panning, how to make realistic dashboard and info about the linear regulator I use to power the video gear from the main lipo
|Nov 15, 2012, 08:58 AM|
I received a monitor like the one I suggest above in my DIY micro FPV setup thread.
I am not impress... I was expecting better picture quality.
The monitor have an adjustement to get a brighter picture outside, I tough it will have a more powerfull backlighting, but the adjustement augment only the brightness . I can do the same by going in the MENU directly
I prefer my goggle and will continue with them. The monitor will be great for my friend to watch while I fly.
I will use it mainly at home, it will become a portable tv monitor. I will integrate a 5.8ghz receiver in the monitor, and install a 5.8ghz Tx on the tv cable box to transmit the tv signal to the monitor. So I will be able to watch my tv program when I go to sh...
I just have to think how much I pay for it and it will help...
|Nov 24, 2012, 04:03 PM|
DIY Micro FPV setup (2)
Few posts above I suggested you a simple video setup that use a second lipo onboard to power the video cam and Tx. The setup that I use in my Beast is power from the main lipo, the second battery is replace with a linear regulator.
If you install a cam in the cockpit, you need a wide FOV. No cam are available with 110deg lens. You will buy a cam that have a 45deg lens and buy a 110deg lens.
Both cam and the Tx work on 5V. You will power them from the main lipo using a linear regulator:
If you intend to install the cam on a panning servo, you simply have to glue it on the servo arm. The arm move only 45deg on each side. I install one tiny resistor on each leg of the pot to extend the movement (see photo)
The dashboard is made using a photo found on the web of the real Beast. I begin by reducing and printing one photo in B&W to found the good size for my Beast. Then I print two photos in color. On one photo I cut and remove the dials. I then place this photo on top of the other one with a plastic sheet between the two photos. It look like real dial with depth.
The cam and the 5.8Ghz Tx will be power at 5V from the linear voltage regulator
the red wire of the cam is solder to the VCC tab of the 5.8Ghz Tx. The black wire will be solder to the GND tab. The third wire of the cam is solder to the VIDEO tab of the Tx.
The output (5V) of the linear reg is solder to the VCC tab of the Tx. The GND output of the linear reg is solder to the GND of the Tx.
And the input of the linear reg (7-18V and GND) are solder to the wires of the 7.2V lipo connector
Do not forget to solder a wire between the CH1 and GND for channel selection.
The voltage regulator will heat a lot, it is normal. You can install on the battery tray on the side of the Tx. I use double side sticky tape wit foam between.
If you are interest in google, no one are perfect. You need good vision. Some have diopter lens available or adjustable focus but they are rare. Some have adjustement for interpupillar distance.
One goggle that have a integrate 5.8Ghz receiver compatible with the Tx I suggest and have a headtracker are the Foxtech goggle:
Fatshark goggle have lightly better optic but the receiver frequencies ARE NOT COMPATIBLE with the Tx I suggest.
If you buy the goggle or use a video monitor on ground, don't forget to order the Fatshark Spironet antennas. You will use the receiver (Rx) antenna on your receiver
Head tracker are not compatible with most brand radio. If you use a Futaba high end model, you are ok. If you have other radio, probably it will not be compatible
ImagesView all Images in thread
|Nov 24, 2012, 07:02 PM|
Note: fatsharks are not compatible with the rx, but you can make a module easily. You just get a rx module and solder the wires in the right order.
There's a how to here (if you don't read german, use google translate or uhm.. the images are enough really) http://fpv-community.de/showthread.p...ominator-bauen
On mine I'm trying to make a tiny LC filter to use one battery as well (mostly for fun/convenience since its lighter with a 50mah batt), but unless i put really big caps (2000uF) I still have lines. I know you're using 2 caps, I'm wondering how heavy it is for you and if you have a pic, i dont see it on the upper pics
|Nov 24, 2012, 08:04 PM|
On the photo it miss the heatsink. total weight is around 3gr.
I still have little noise when the motor run, but it is acceptable at my taste
|Nov 25, 2012, 10:27 AM|
Do you use this regulator?
it's a switching regulator,Flytron regulator is a linear regulator.
Switching regulator are more efficient and do not come hot like the linear regulator. But the output voltage is not clean like a voltage coming from a battery or from a linear regulator. With an oscilloscope you would see that the voltage fluctuate rapidly around 5V. The noise is also present all around the regulator and can be pick up by the wires or servo in the plane affecting the receiver onboard. So range check must be perform one time if you use switching reg to be sure the receiver onboard is not affect.
Linear regulator are less efficient, and become very hot if it have a big difference of voltage between the input and output of the regulator. The Flytron regulator I suggest will have 8V appr. at input and 5V at output, it will be hot but probably no heatsink is neccessary if you use the 200mW tx from FPV hobby. This Tx have his own voltage regulator inside and will drop the 5V to 3.3V internaly.
I use the 200mW Tx from Foxtech that must be power at 3.3V. So I use the other linear regulator from Flytron, this one have 3.3V output. In my situation, the regulator have 8V at input and 3.3V at output for my Tx. My regulator become very hot and need a little heatsink.
It need also a capacitor 1000uf because I use the Foxtech Tx. I'm pretty sure you will not need the capacitor if you use the FPVhobby Tx, because it have some cap internally.
I hope I will not confuse you too much...
|Nov 25, 2012, 02:13 PM|
yes i was talking about the tx with integrated linear regulator. it certainly needs filtering for a 1 batt setup. lines are terrible on my ladybird and my ar6400 escs :-)
|Jan 31, 2013, 07:18 PM|
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