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Old Nov 14, 2012, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by daskim View Post
Ah, it is what I use as well.

I'm anxious to see 2.7k footage.

I've not seen anything on the internet as yet, and I am concerned about how you would sharpen that footage in FCP X or any other editor.

Then there's HDR FOR GOPRO:

http://www.crumplepop.com/hdrforgopro/

It does a pretty darn good job of sharpening, and other image controls inside of FCP X.
Hello

The only thing this filter does is increasing the contrast and sharpening… something you could do even in Photoshop CS4 extended (for itīs video functions)… in my modest opinion the application we see in the demo reel is way over the top… thereīs no real HDR there no increment in detail or DR anywhere to be seen… so save yourself some money, spend it elsewhere…

A question about servos… wouldnīt this gimbal work better, more precise, with 32 bits/4096 steps servos like the ones from Savox or Bluebird ?

Thanks…
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Athens, Greece
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tried the rivets today...
the look good and solid.
4 M3x20 screws and locking nuts are 6.87gr
4 Rivets 4x8mm are 1.92gr!
Every little helps!

Edit: the photo shows 3mm rivets that were replaced by 4mm
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:03 AM
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Southeastern, PA
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
Don't forget to pick up a programmer.
Hahaha! Just had to append to my order. I ordered late last night and forgot to add the programmer
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:35 AM
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VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherodd View Post
If anyone's curious, it doesn't look like APM currently supports 360° servos with it's camera stabilization system. That said it does look like a few people working on fixing this. Also it's default servo outputs for camera control update at only 50hz, but i believe it is fairly straight forward to rewire to use two motor outputs instead which update at 490hz, unless you're running an octocopter. Then you're out of luck.


I'm stating to get the impression that very few people have ever used APM's gimbal stabilization.
I get the impression that its not just the APM. Mike pointed out a lot could probably be done to multiwii code to give it higher resolution, selectable endpoints and boost the refresh rate. I am not up to the programming task but maybe somebody else capable will write better "gimbal only" code. As pointed out the original doesn't do bad.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigar View Post
tried the rivets today...
the look good and solid.
4 M3x20 screws and locking nuts are 6.87gr
4 Rivets 4x8mm are 1.92gr!
Every little helps!

Edit: the photo shows 3mm rivets that were replaced by 4mm
Well done

My only concern is that the bearing/pot holes need to be lined up very well, or it will bind. For screws, you can assemble everything to make sure there's no binding, then finish tightening the screws. If you then install rivets, that should be just as good, but I wouldn't want to install rivets before testing the alignment.

Of course you can also use two screws, which would be a good compromise in weight, and still easily removable.

Cheers,
Rusty
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:18 AM
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I have the exact experience as you. What I found out was that just about every servo manufacturers glue the motor to the servo case. So you cannot pry the circuit board off. I actually pulled the motor end bell off when I was doing it.
I don't know if the HK MI motors are glued in. It's a while since I actually gutted one, but I recall that they were hard to get apart. The issue is that the circuit board covers the pot, and the board is soldered to the motor terminals. So you have to unsolder the board from the motor. It's trivial if you aren't worried about the servo working ever again... But you'd have to carefully desolder it if you were trying to save it.

Quote:
Yeah I think the .11 secs transit time may be the sweet spot for what we need for now.
Can you shoot a quick video of the 82910? And the full boat MI BL you got. Just throw a horn on, and use a servo tester to move it around. It's totally subjective, but I'd like to see how it moves and sounds.

I like the digital Turnigy servo tester quite a lot. It's really useful. I HK shipped my order out the 2nd day. Either they are improving service, or my "Platinum" membership is finally starting to pay off! So I should have my new tester soon. The deadband tester is really useful. And I love the PWM reader function, it's really helpful for programming Arducopter! I like to see what is *actually* coming out the outputs.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Hawaii
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>>A question about servos… wouldnīt this gimbal work better, more precise, with 32 bits/4096 steps servos like the ones from Savox or Bluebird ?<<

They call those 12 bit resolution and yes I am trying 12 bit servos.

Hansen
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Well done

My only concern is that the bearing/pot holes need to be lined up very well, or it will bind. For screws, you can assemble everything to make sure there's no binding, then finish tightening the screws. If you then install rivets, that should be just as good, but I wouldn't want to install rivets before testing the alignment.

Of course you can also use two screws, which would be a good compromise in weight, and still easily removable.

Cheers,
Rusty
Yeah even with the screws in the middle. I assembled everything. Lined up the camera tray and the pot plates. Tighten up all the screws on the sides. Then I drill and substitute the screws.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Hawaii
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>>Can you shoot a quick video of the 82910? And the full boat MI BL you got. Just throw a horn on, and use a servo tester to move it around. It's totally subjective, but I'd like to see how it moves and sounds.<<

Sure, when the MIBL shows up I will do a video. Won't be the same because the 82910 has an external pot and the MIBL will be stock.

>>I like the digital Turnigy servo tester quite a lot. It's really useful. I HK shipped my order out the 2nd day. Either they are improving service, or my "Platinum" membership is finally starting to pay off! So I should have my new tester soon. The deadband tester is really useful. And I love the PWM reader function, it's really helpful for programming Arducopter! I like to see what is *actually* coming out the outputs.<<

I need to get one of those. I only have the cheap one.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Athens, Greece
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
Yeah even with the screws in the middle. I assembled everything. Lined up the camera tray and the pot plates. Tighten up all the screws on the sides. Then I drill and substitute the screws.
Thanks I will probably do the same. I will build the thing with the screws and then I will replace with rivets.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by tigar View Post
Thanks I will probably do the same. I will build the thing with the screws and then I will replace with rivets.
The rivet setup looks really good. I am going to give it a try also.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:39 AM
Videographer/Product Reviews
United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diafragma1939 View Post
Hello

The only thing this filter does is increasing the contrast and sharpening… something you could do even in Photoshop CS4 extended (for itīs video functions)… in my modest opinion the application we see in the demo reel is way over the top… thereīs no real HDR there no increment in detail or DR anywhere to be seen… so save yourself some money, spend it elsewhere…
Not really sure how you can achieve true HDR without multiple exposures of the same subject matter.

In any case, I don't see where GoPro/Cineform provides an application that will sharpen and reduce noise in flat ProTune footage.

Is there one that does this and also outputs?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Potage, MI
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Last night I worked on a HK83601 and moved the pot outside. It is not necessary to remove the circuit board or motor from the case. The pot is actually accessed between the metal center section and the top. It is held in with one screw and is connected to the board with about 1" of wire which looks like a small gauge servo wire. (not as shown below)

http://www.ltair.com/index.php?route...product_id=120

The wire is long enough to cut a notch in the case and stick out the end. The stop on the output gear also needs to be removed.

The pot value is 5k.

Thanks,
Vince
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:48 AM
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Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince53 View Post
Last night I worked on a HK83601 and moved the pot outside. It is not necessary to remove the circuit board or motor from the case. The pot is actually accessed between the metal center section and the top. It is held in with one screw and is connected to the board with about 1" of wire which looks like a small gauge servo wire. (not as shown below)

http://www.ltair.com/index.php?route...product_id=120

The wire is long enough to cut a notch in the case and stick out the end. The stop on the output gear also needs to be removed.

The pot value is 5k.

Thanks,
Vince
Excellent, thank you. That seems like a pretty easy mod.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 12:26 PM
Irv
AKA the"Old Flyer" KI6SPO
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Carlsbad, CA
Joined Aug 2004
104 Posts
Vince,

Thanks for the info about the HK83601 mod.
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