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Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:56 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
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Originally Posted by mattchase View Post
Sweet, I get to test another gimbal!

Oh, wait, you meant Hansen didn't you?
No, I went over both of you your heads. This one goes to James

Rusty
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Do'h!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Rusty as usual very nice work. I guess that takes the 9" belts also? That looks like an AB or Ohmlite pot on there. Spectrol makes a nice 5K continuous rotation wire wound pot for this type use but may be a little more expensive than what some want to pay.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by prodriverex View Post
Is making the rectangle into L shape to get rid of the corner going to affect the rigidity?
I don't know. I want to at least cut an angle in the plate to get rid of the corner.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:36 PM
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>>OK, here's a picture of Prototype #2<<

That sure looks good.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:38 PM
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>> Spectrol makes a nice 5K continuous rotation wire wound pot for this type use but may be a little more expensive than what some want to pay.<<

Do you have a link to purchase this? I also want to test different pots.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Navarre, FL
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Originally Posted by pug398 View Post
Rusty as usual very nice work. I guess that takes the 9" belts also? That looks like an AB or Ohmlite pot on there. Spectrol makes a nice 5K continuous rotation wire wound pot for this type use but may be a little more expensive than what some want to pay.
The pot is complicated by the fact that it's physical properties are also important. The one you see has a 2" shaft, and the shaft is just enough under 0.25" to fit the bearings well. I haven't found many pots that fit that description I'm afraid. This is the pot I'm using:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...502C-ND/222782


Rusty (off to exercise my poor neglected car)
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
I don't know. I want to at least cut an angle in the plate to get rid of the corner.
If you don't want to take up space in the inside corner of the yoke, and you still want to use a rectangular plate, you can just extend the rear bar past the left and right bars, then move the plate outboard. That gives the same contact area, but will cost a tiny bit of weight in extra bar length.

I'd love to have made an essentially triangular plate, with the bars mitered at 45 degrees where the meet in the corners, but that would be cruel to people who use my plates

Rusty
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
The pot is complicated by the fact that it's physical properties are also important. The one you see has a 2" shaft, and the shaft is just enough under 0.25" to fit the bearings well. I haven't found many pots that fit that description I'm afraid. This is the pot I'm using:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...502C-ND/222782

The next problem is the value. Everyone seems to keep using this 5K ohm number, but the pots that ServoCity leaves on my servos measure around 1.4K ohm. The above pot comes in 1k, 2.5k, and 5k. So far, I've only tested the 5K with a servo, and it worked fine, but later today, I hope to try at least the 2.5K compared to the 5K, to see if there's any noticeable difference. I suspect it's just a voltage divider, so the value shouldn't matter, but I haven't found a servo schematic with enough details to confirm that. If 5K works, it's probably the safer choice, since it should never allow more current through the circuit than the servo maker expected (assuming 5K is the max value used in servos).

Rusty (off to exercise my poor neglected car)
Looked closer and see how you would need the long shaft version now. I am pretty sure you are correct they are using it as simple divider but the there is always the chance they have trim resistors on each leg in which case the value would be important. Always something to consider
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
>> Spectrol makes a nice 5K continuous rotation wire wound pot for this type use but may be a little more expensive than what some want to pay.<<

Do you have a link to purchase this? I also want to test different pots.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai....0K-ND/1287395

Thats the least expensive one with others having a better tolerances. You may can use a shaft coupler with it since its a short shaft. Didn't realize you all were using the pot itself for the coupling shaft until Rusty just said something.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Can a parts list be compiled? It would be nice to know what bearings, pots, belts and pulleys are needed. I guess the better way is to get all of these from Rusty but until the kit is ready....
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:25 PM
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>>If you don't want to take up space in the inside corner of the yoke, and you still want to use a rectangular plate, you can just extend the rear bar past the left and right bars, then move the plate outboard. That gives the same contact area, but will cost a tiny bit of weight in extra bar length.<<

That will work. Especially for those that want to create a smaller gimbal with maximum inside space. I can't wait to see how many different ways of making the gimbal with your plates.

>>I'd love to have made an essentially triangular plate, with the bars mitered at 45 degrees where the meet in the corners, but that would be cruel to people who use my plates <<

Oh yeah, that would be really nice.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pug398 View Post
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai....0K-ND/1287395

Thats the least expensive one with others having a better tolerances. You may can use a shaft coupler with it since its a short shaft. Didn't realize you all were using the pot itself for the coupling shaft until Rusty just said something.
Thanks. Yes it is simpler to use the shaft from the pot with a bearing as support.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tigar View Post
Can a parts list be compiled? It would be nice to know what bearings, pots, belts and pulleys are needed. I guess the better way is to get all of these from Rusty but until the kit is ready....
Ok here it is:

1) 2 each MXLS-01 or MXLS-02 for Futaba or Hitec servo. http://www.lynxmotion.com/c-75-accessories.aspx

2) 2 each "A 6Z16-090DF2508" 90 groove pulley. https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

3) 2 each "A 6B16-120025" 120 groove timing belt. https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

4) 2 each 1/4" X 1/2" X 3/16" flanged bearings for roll.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/1-4inch/kit776

5) 3 each 1/4" X 3/8" X 1/8" flanged bearings for tilt.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/1-4inch/Kit10974

6) 2 each .2947" precision stainless shafts "S4016Y-US3-20".
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ (Rusty is using some anodized aluminum shafts. He will have to tell you where he gets his from.)

7) 1 each 5K pot.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...502C-ND/222782

Or this is where I got mine from:http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...II4b0wYafEc%3d

I think that's everything you will need. Of course some 4-40 nuts and bolts if Rusty is not providing them. I am now using aluminum nuts and bolts and love them.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Athens, Greece
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Great thanks for that!
One more thing. The mks servos what kind of hub the have? Futaba or hitec
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