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Old Mar 15, 2013, 05:10 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
>>What do you guys think about my little mod!??<<

My only concern is that you are relying on the motor bearing to support the gimbal. I would prefer to mount the motor on the outside of the side plates and use the original bearings on the gimbal to support to shaft.

The disadvantage with that setup is the motor will now be farther outside and therefore more inertia. Then again you are taking off the servo and pulleys so that should even out.
I have been thinking about that as well. It's simpler but I doubt those motors are designed to take those types of side loads. I have my alexmos board now. Interested to see what you guys come up with
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 07:29 PM
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Canada, BC, Bowen Island
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>>As promised here are some pictures on the Y6 that I have been working on.<<

Holy flying ninjas. So the vertical arm is going through the center of the copter. It then attaches to an anti-vibration/isolation plate mounted on top. The battery plate then sits on long standoffs which surround the top bar. Do I have this right? So crazy.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 08:26 PM
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Looks great Hansen!
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:41 PM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by jcmonty View Post
I have been thinking about that as well. It's simpler but I doubt those motors are designed to take those types of side loads. I have my alexmos board now. Interested to see what you guys come up with
I want to see what the motors look like from Gothelirc. I will either push the shaft out the stationery side or replace the shaft completely. The rest is fairly simple. Just make a plate with some 16mm and 19mm holes to mount the motor. Another set of holes to mount the plate to the side plate. I probably have to replace the outer side plates with one that is a bit larger to match the holes on the motor plate. A couple of nylon stand offs and a shaft adapter and that should work.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:43 PM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by featherodd View Post
>>As promised here are some pictures on the Y6 that I have been working on.<<

Holy flying ninjas. So the vertical arm is going through the center of the copter. It then attaches to an anti-vibration/isolation plate mounted on top. The battery plate then sits on long standoffs which surround the top bar. Do I have this right? So crazy.
Exactly as you described. The only difference is that I changed from a anti vibration plate to two cross bars instead. The theory is the same. If the camera is really light like a GoPro I can mount the battery right on the top tube of the gimbal to add a bit more mass but I don't think that is necessary.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mattchase View Post
Looks great Hansen!
Thanks.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 11:52 PM
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United States, MN, St Cloud
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Great job Hansen , but now how does it fly and in your case can you teach it to swim...lol
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 12:50 AM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by richkphoto View Post
Great job Hansen , but now how does it fly and in your case can you teach it to swim...lol

It flies great on the first flight. I am not so sure about the swimming part. I will have to get one of those floating quads.

I just setup the Tarot gimbal controller. I am using XQ Power RS416 on the roll and the Lontair MI 360 degrees servo on tilt. It seems smooth on the bench. The real test will be the test flight.
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ajhaggerty View Post
you don't think the apm2.5 is capable of providing top end gimbal control?
Ajhaggerty: as Seismic mentioned, it's possible to get good results with Arducopter's/APM's gimbal stabilization, but only if you know it's limits. This means ideal conditions and extremely smooth piloting.

APM's dedicated camera outs for pitch and roll output at only 50hz though you can also use spare motor outputs which can be set to 400hz. There are eight motor outs so two can be utilized for gimbal control assuming it's configured for a y6 or hex, zero are of course available on an octo.

An APM developer mentioned somewhere that Arducopter internally calculates gimbal stabilization routines at 50hz only (v2.8 at the time). Even if outputting at 400Hz, I would assume there are simply 8 repeat values every 20ms.

Configuration wise, Arducopter's gimbal options are qiuite simple. For each axis you can set servo limits, min/max angles, input/output channels and whether the axis is stabilized or not. RC control is strictly proportional and there are no options for input smoothing, rate control, tuning PIDs or any option to really modify or tune stabilization performance.

With APM, I've found it extremely difficult to use a knob on my tx to consistently pitch the camera smoothly while flying. The best results I've got by far is with two operators where I've got a friend simply staring at a monitor attempting to turn a pitch knob as smooth as possible. This of course is in lue of an any options to smooth rc input or set max rate. (time to get a dedicated gimbal controller

Side note: it seems like very few if anyone is actually using APM/Arductoper to shoot stabilized footage, developer wise or user. I have heard Arducopter's main loop is quite slow compared to the alternative 32bit platforms. My guess is that migrating Arducopter to PX4, and later APM3 is likely more of a priority then adding additional functionality.
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Last edited by featherodd; Mar 16, 2013 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 09:55 PM
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I fly my FPV rig with an APM - having been using it for over a year with various success. The firmware and control laws are getting better - really good actually. The hardware is showing it's age. Going to 32bit will help it out.

Not many people are using the gimbal stabiliztion as far as I am aware. I am sure that it could work, but it would probably take much more effort than other proven controllers
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 09:02 PM
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Aguascalientes
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gimbal

ok, I have done a test flight in my new hexa that I built with rusty parts, it flew very well, no bad habits, now I'll try the Rusty's gimbal, just that I have a few questions, anyone know if the NAZA FC works well with the hitec 7940 servos or it need a bec, the NAZA manual says that each channel Pan and Til has a max of 5v, anyone using this combo





Ivvic's Hexacopter fly test (1 min 7 sec)
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 09:45 PM
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>>ok, I have done a test flight in my new hexa that I built with rusty parts, it flew very well, no bad habits, now I'll try the Rusty's gimbal, just that I have a few questions, anyone know if the NAZA FC works well with the hitec 7940 servos or it need a bec, the NAZA manual says that each channel Pan and Til has a max of 5v, anyone using this combo<<

I highly recommend a BEC and crank the voltage up to power the servo. If you have a choice use a separate gimbal controller also. You will spend a lot of time tuning the Naza gimbal control and eventually you will still get some twitch in the roll axis.
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 10:50 PM
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thanks for the advice, I thought so. Which gimbal controller you recommend me?
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 10:57 PM
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Hey Vic, you got more pictures of your frame? What's your setup?
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Old Mar 18, 2013, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TheFernMan View Post
Hey Vic, you got more pictures of your frame? What's your setup?
2 UAP2 Main Plate
1 UAP2 Top Plate
1 UAP 6 Damper Kit
1 UG-1 Floating Plate
4 TL-1 kit with 2 blocks
standoffs, Screw and friction nuts
square 12x12mm aluminum, 75cm center to center motor,

motor 2814 ipower 750kv
APC 12x3.8 SF
ZTW 30A ESC- SimonK - from Rusty
Naza FC and GPS
2 turnigy nano 5000mA 4S (10,000mA)
lawmate tx 1.2GHz 100mW
Rusty's gimbal and panasonic LX7
AUW 4.050kg.







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Last edited by vic1509; Mar 18, 2013 at 01:28 AM.
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