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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:36 PM
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2012
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Originally Posted by revquad View Post
True, good point. I'd also really like to add a small switch in there so that I don't have to RIP the battery connector off every time I need to reset the gyro (oh about every 2 minutes when I lightly bump something)
There was a post in one of the threads in mini multirotor showing you how to unplug the mini losi connectors, using your fingernail to sort of pry the battery side connector off and it's a lot easier on your wires. I had the same thing happen to me, a quick touch with the iron to where the positive wire connects to the board and it fixed it.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by revquad View Post
True, good point. I'd also really like to add a small switch in there so that I don't have to RIP the battery connector off every time I need to reset the gyro (oh about every 2 minutes when I lightly bump something)
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Originally Posted by mejmea View Post
With mine I notice that every now and then that the motors won't spin up until I disconnect/reconnect the battery - is that the same symptom you are referring to? I usually see this later in the flight and (I think) when I am not quick enough on the throttle hold prior to crashing. I have been assuming that I was somehow overloading the battery by stopping one or more of the props abruptly while under power and therefore pulling the voltage down below the LVC and that the board then wanted to be re-initialized. You think it has to do with the gyros somehow?
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Originally Posted by theimacman View Post
I have not seen that behavior in my 1SQ, but I know several RCs do that intentionally, as a safety feature. They power off the motors in a crash.
Mine does this also. I figured it was safety also. Thinking about current draw, it hasn't happened on my 300 mah lipos.. but i also haven't crashed as much...

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Originally Posted by mejmea View Post
The simplified, hopefully readable on a phone version (written in 4x4)

Dual rate changes the maximum steering angle you can get. Lower dual rate percentage = lower max steering angle and vice versa. By setting up different rates on a switch on your Tx you can change on the fly.

Expo softens the steering around center so that it's not as twitchy, but doesn't affect the maximum steering angle. It makes the relationship between steering wheel angle and actual steering angle non-linear. Again, you can set up different values on a switch on your Tx (often people put it on the same switch as the D/R).

Note that for some Txs positive expo has the softening effect (e.g. Spektrum) and for other negative expo has this effect (e.g. Futaba) - they just use different sign conventions. Thus whether you put in a positive or negative number depends on your equipment. If you want it twitchier near center then you put in the opposite of the above.

On a computerized Tx you can put in separate dual rate and/or expo percentages for each of the primary directional flight controls (aileron, elevator, rudder). Depending on the radio, you can most likely choose to have each flight control on its own switch or have them all changed together on one switch.

Hope that helps.
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Originally Posted by theimacman View Post
That is basically the same as on Air vehicles. It limits the servo's travel, but doesn't affect the speed of the servo.

So, with D/R you could have 100% travel on High Rates, and then, say, 60% travel on low rates, making the control less touchy due to having less full throws on the control surfaces.

And, Expo basically adds a curve to the control input. It gives a bit less touchiness towards the center of the stick, but then ramps up the touchiness as you reach the further limits of the stick. If that makes any sense...

I like to add about 20-30% expo, as that makes hovering easier, because I can make slightly larger movements near the center of the right stick, while only giving very slight input to the actual vehicle.
Light bulb just came on. thanks!
Makes me want to get an Any link to test the DX7 now LOL

so is the Gain on the stock TX a combo of the both or more expo?
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:50 PM
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United States, IL, Champaign
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by muck76 View Post
so is the Gain on the stock TX a combo of the both or more expo?
I don't have the stock TX, but I'd imagine that is Gyro gain.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:54 PM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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For those with a DX8, 7s etc.....
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...WGD+&search=Go

You won't have to mod the original cable!
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:56 PM
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Annandale, VA
Joined Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by muck76 View Post
I believe the plugs for the motors are the same. Only concern would be the polarity of the motor wire and whether it is a decent board. I need to read up on it.

I've been pondering getting an anylink for my dx7. Is it worth it? Could have used throttle hold this past wekend.

Also led wiring, I tried using the two spots on the board where Walkera has plugs. They have batt voltage with a metter but didn't seem to have the current. I had one 2mm blue and one flashing red. I wired in parallel and connected to the lipo. They worked great. Connected to the board and both Leds flashed and were not as bright. Hooked up just the blue and got solid light but was duller than direct to the lipo. Where are you all getting voltage from?
I'm using the anylink with my DX7 and it works great after you figure out how to set it up.
Is this the light set you that you used?
http://www.advantagehobby.com/228668/RAM191/?pcat=89
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 05:06 PM
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Joined Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by Sky_Captain View Post
I'm using the anylink with my DX7 and it works great after you figure out how to set it up.
Is this the light set you that you used?
http://www.advantagehobby.com/228668/RAM191/?pcat=89
no, i ordered the lights from Banggood for a V949. $6ish shipped and wait.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by theimacman View Post
I don't have the stock TX, but I'd imagine that is Gyro gain.
Correct. I have the stock Tx and it is Gyro gain.

Must say I've only had this quad since Christmas and I'm so disgusted with the stock Tx I've already bought a used Jr xp625 and an Anylink. Waiting for them to be delivered. All just so I can hopefully fly my 1SQ without having to fight the constant right drift the stock Tx is injecting.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Zellot View Post
Correct. I have the stock Tx and it is Gyro gain.

Must say I've only had this quad since Christmas and I'm so disgusted with the stock Tx I've already bought a used Jr xp625 and an Anylink. Waiting for them to be delivered. All just so I can hopefully fly my 1SQ without having to fight the constant right drift the stock Tx is injecting.
From my googling I found gyro controlled yaw on helis. What does it help on quads?
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mejmea View Post
With mine I notice that every now and then that the motors won't spin up until I disconnect/reconnect the battery - is that the same symptom you are referring to? I usually see this later in the flight and (I think) when I am not quick enough on the throttle hold prior to crashing. I have been assuming that I was somehow overloading the battery by stopping one or more of the props abruptly while under power and therefore pulling the voltage down below the LVC and that the board then wanted to be re-initialized. You think it has to do with the gyros somehow?
I haven't a clue, I know nothing about the inner workings of RC as yet, but I do know that In general use, an accelerometer / gyro is very good at telling small incremental changes in orientation, but it has no definite dead reckoning to KNOW that 'that way is down' except by gradually accumulating the local rotation changes over time, given its initial state. Now this introduces error over time, but (now I'm guessing) also during a hard crash event. ( caveat, adding a magnetometer to the mix does give you some corrections over time, and a much more accurate heading )

This is mostly conjecture based on the wicked tilt of the 1sq post trauma.. (flip to the ground) even with all motors and props spinning freely. Then cycling the power, and it flying perfectly fine again.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:16 PM
Carthage, TX
United States, TX, Tenaha
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
For those with a DX8, 7s etc.....
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...WGD+&search=Go

You won't have to mod the original cable!
Why not just buy this one with the LiFe battery already attached? That's what I did for my 7s. Works great!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZAT&P=M
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:18 PM
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United States, IL, Geneva
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by muck76 View Post
From my googling I found gyro controlled yaw on helis. What does it help on quads?
Flybar helis use one electronic gyro for the tail/yaw and the flybar serves as somewhat of a mechanical gyro for aileron and elevator. Flybarless helis do away with the flybar (a somewhat redundant sentence, I know) and add two more electronic gyros instead. This is what the 1SQ has. If you had no gyros or flybar, the heli or quad (which are basically inherently unstable critters) would be darn near impossible to control.

Think about the fact that on something like the 1SQ it is virtually physically impossible for all 4 motors to generate the exact same lift and the amount that each has to generate is going to be a function of many variables. If the gyros and other electronics were not constantly telling the esc's how to minutely and differentially adjust the rpm you would have your hands full just trying to hover much less fly around. It's pretty doggone amazing what is packed into a $100 device like this. There's probably more processing power than was available to take the Apollo missions to the moon and back...
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mejmea View Post
Flybar helis use one electronic gyro for the tail/yaw and the flybar serves as somewhat of a mechanical gyro for aileron and elevator. Flybarless helis do away with the flybar (a somewhat redundant sentence, I know) and add two more electronic gyros instead. This is what the 1SQ has. If you had no gyros or flybar, the heli or quad (which are basically inherently unstable critters) would be darn near impossible to control.

Think about the fact that on something like the 1SQ it is virtually physically impossible for all 4 motors to generate the exact same lift and the amount that each has to generate is going to be a function of many variables. If the gyros and other electronics were not constantly telling the esc's how to minutely and differentially adjust the rpm you would have your hands full just trying to hover much less fly around. It's pretty doggone amazing what is packed into a $100 device like this. There's probably more processing power than was available to take the Apollo missions to the moon and back...
I didn't realize there were more than one gyros on these but that does make sense. Thanks. Again excuse the newbie questions. Land rc are easy LOL
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by muck76 View Post
I didn't realize there were more than one gyros on these but that does make sense. Thanks. Again excuse the newbie questions. Land rc are easy LOL
No problem, I've spent my life pretty much continuously being a newb at something or other (always have to keep learning, right?) and there generally has been someone with more knowledge who was willing to teach me so I figure the least we can do is pay it forward.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mejmea View Post
With mine I notice that every now and then that the motors won't spin up until I disconnect/reconnect the battery - is that the same symptom you are referring to? I usually see this later in the flight and (I think) when I am not quick enough on the throttle hold prior to crashing. I have been assuming that I was somehow overloading the battery by stopping one or more of the props abruptly while under power and therefore pulling the voltage down below the LVC and that the board then wanted to be re-initialized. You think it has to do with the gyros somehow?
Mine does the same thing after about 3 minutes even if I dont crash it dies I unplug it and get a couple more minutes . I went as far as checking the voltage on the battery the first time it dies usually 3.8-3.9 volts .I bought a second 1sq and it never needs to be reset not even after crashes unless they're real bad crashes . My friend got one for his kid and same thing as my first one it always needs to be reset.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:39 PM
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I wonder if its a firm ware thing.
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