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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:35 AM
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BeastX phase 1, Part 2 - Flight Test & Review

BeastX phase 1, Part 2 - Flight Test & Review


Okay, so i got a chance to fly 5 packs with the BeastX V450, which i am now calling the V450BX. The truth is, i had some issues and really had to tune my heli well. The BeastX is pretty sensitive. The tail had a vibe from the tail grips being too tight. Also a few other things. I probably still have some tuning and settings to tweek for personal preference. Anyway, there were some vibes and things i had to hunt down and fix. Even then there was a nice amount of vibes running from my tail. The main blades them self also had a slight vibe that did not exist with the blades off. Thats why i have mismatched blades on there right now. I tried and tried. But i couldn't get all the vibes out, as is typical. Anyway. I ended up having to remount the ÁBeast with a piece of the thicker foam padding that came with the ÁBeast on my X5. This worked out well, even though it was already flying fine. The added foam will help nullify what vibes i couldn't get out. Also, in case anyone was wondering. No this is not the ÁBeast off my X5, though it did come of a Gaui X2 and i bought it on Ebay.





I was going to move the RX up top and the ÁBeast down below after i got it all setup and tweeked. But the vibes are much less up top. So it might stay here.


First impressions and review of the Microbeast upgrade on the V450.

Okay, so my initial flight impressions of the BeastX on the V450.... IT'S AWESOME! It is actually more stable than the 2702V. However, i will say that the 2702V is actually not bad for the basics and general hover stability. But the BeastX is actually much better. It handles pirouettes and reverse flight much better. When the wind did blow i could feel a much quicker and harder response from the BeastX gyros. Just holding the heli in my hand and tipping the heli, even the slightest movement registered. Where as with the 2702 in the winds, or my hand, the gyros were not the fastest to respond and also the amount they resisted was probably not as much, or as sensitive as these are. Anyway, i expect the gyro to really show a difference when the wind is a little stronger, i hope at least. So here are 3 of the first 5 flights. Unfortunately it's been very cloudy and almost no sun. Also the wind has been on and off and from all different directions. The day i did the first 5 flights it was not very windy. Just a light breeze here and there.

V450BX - BeastX = better pirouettes
V450BX - BeastX = better pirouettes - 12-25-12 (4 min 57 sec)


V450BX - BeastX Piros & reverse flight!
V450BX - BeastX Piros & reverse flight! - 12-25-12 (4 min 39 sec)


V450BX - More 3D and some reverse flight!
V450BX - More 3D and some reverse flight! - 12-25-12 (4 min 40 sec)



Update 12-30-12:
So far no problems with the 2801-pro RX or the new gyro. I tightened the tension on my 2801-pro TX, but it still is pretty loose. It won't go much tighter either. So the switch to the Spektrum rx will eventually happen anyway. I might give my newer 2801-pro a try first though. Just to see if a new 2801 is any better or less "worn out" than my current one is after 9 months of very frequent use. For a while there, including sim time. Which was a lot too.
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Old Mar 30, 2013, 09:41 PM
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V450 Tail Shaft Assembly Using WK Gear Puller

V450 Tail Shaft Assembly Using WK Gear Puller




One day i was sitting at my nice warm bench... Or was it nice cool bench... Well, either way i was inside nice and comfortable at my heli bench. I had to assemble a tail shaft to install on my V450 and i didn't want to go outside in what, at the time, was either sticky hot miserableness, or freezing cold night air. Which ever it was, as usual. Necessity gave birth to invention when i noticed my Walkera gear puller sitting on my bench. Turns out this is a pretty simple way to assemble the tail shaft. In a previous section i showed how i use the gear puller to remove the tail shaft spindle hub when it's thread locked on too tight. This way will be a little different as we will be using it as a press to get the pulley wheel assembled and as a shaft press to install the shaft into the pulley.
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Old Mar 30, 2013, 10:29 PM
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Savox 0257MG & Align servo Impact Saver Mod.

Savox 0257MG & Align servo Impact Saver Mod.


So.... We all know Savox makes a decent 450 servo. But many people complain about slop building in the gear train and "jitters". Of course, most of these issues in my experience appear after crashing the servo. It would be nice to think that because these servos use metal gears, that they might be more impervious to crash damage. Unfortunately once you get the notorious 450 servo jitter, even changing out the gears and gear shafts will not typically fix it. This is because the issue is specifically related to the potentiometer inside the servo. Well, What is a potentiometer you might ask? The potentiometer, or "pot", as it's often referred to, is responsible for telling the gyro the position of the servo at all times. Well, our little servo jitter problem stems from damage to that pot's contact brushes.


I've seen it said that Savox and Align servos will develop "slop" or "jitters" on their own rather quickly. But i think most of the people that say that have already crashed those servos at least once. I know for a fact that one crash is all it takes because out of 3 whole sets of servos. My first crash was all it took to develop a permanent jitter on one or more servos. Usually the servo who's servo horn got broken in the crash. It would be nice to think that the servo horn breaking would save the servo from impact pressure. But unfortunately the problem is the pot is placed directly under the last gear in the line, which happens to be the exposed spline gear that the servo horn attaches to. So any impact damage that can jostle the shaft running though that gear from side to side will cause damage to the pot's brushes. Because the shaft is directly connected to the pot.

Okay, so with my newest set of Savox servos, installed just a few weeks ago. I decided i wanted to go ahead and do something to maybe prevent this side to side slamming pressure when i crash. Because lets face it. I'm an aspiring 3D pilot. I'm going to crash. Even if i wasn't attempting 3D, everyone crashes at some point. Why not save some money doing it right? I didn't post this information till i had a chance to test it out. Which means i had to crash first. I am pleased to say that the mod appears to have prevented any of the servos from developing slop or jitter after the first crash. Again, every time prior, my first crash at least one servo developed a slight jitter. So i consider this mod a Success so far! With any luck it will continue to prevent pot damage so i can solely replace the servo horns or metal gears as was originally implied by every damn manufacturer who never tell you any of this.



The Problem. At least in my opinion. A small gap between the servo horn and servo case.






My solution to this problem is installing a special nylon washer under the servo horn to fill the gap. The problem is that the gap is very small. Less than 0.5mm i would say. So finding a spacer that will ride with the servo horn and not cause a ton of friction was quite a task. Rubber would be nice, but it's too grippy. Lucky for me i found these nylon washers with a recessed center at my LHS. These end up working out perfectly because the recessed center ring on the washer matches the diameter of the base of the Savox servo horn perfectly. Nylon, as some might know is a fairly soft and slick plastic. So it slides on top of the servo case rather nice and smooth. I think i've even seen nylon gears and things being called "self lubricating". /shrug. Anyway, the inside diameter of the washer is a little tight on the servo spline but it fits fine. It is very important to tighten down the servo horn mounting screw ONLY TO PRESS THE HORN DOWN. Once the horn is pressed fulled on the spline you should remove the screw. Apply some thread lock and then install the screw only so it hardly snugs down on top of the horn and let the thread lock cure over night. If you tighten down the servo horn too tight the friction will shorten the life of your servos exponentially.




The whole idea is that when the servo horn is being hit with crash impact forces. The up or down pressure exerted on the servo is enough to tilt the servo spline gear in the case. Thus bending the potentiometer shaft or damaging the brushes. With a soft nylon pad behind the servo horn. With any luck the washer and servo case will at the very least receive some of the impact pressure and mitigate any potential damage to the potentiometer. So far results are looking promising. I will update this post more after the next crash

It's also notable to mention that i also used these washers on a slightly jittery servo and it smoothed out the spot in the servo's travel that at one time did jitter.

Here is a link to where you can order the Nylon retaining washers that I used: http://www.microfasteners.com/wrt10-...g-washers.html


Here is the crash that tested the impact saver mod:

V450BX takes another dirt nap! (5 min 57 sec)
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Old May 15, 2013, 10:28 PM
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Spekturm Satellite RX Physical install photos - BeastX Phase 1 Part 2.

Spekturm Satellite RX Physical install photos - BeastX Phase 1 Part 2.

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Old May 15, 2013, 11:18 PM
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V450D01 - Tarot DFC Rotor head upgrade!

V450D01 - Tarot DFC Rotor head upgrade!





After my last crash my V450 was in pretty rough shape. I had become quite bored of my V450 and in comparison to my X5 it was rather sloppy in the air and lacking power. I bought some new batteries and that fixed part of the problem. I have been waiting to break my rotor head in a crash but it didn't happen this time. I still have about 2-3 WK rotor heads left. In mostly working order too. The rotor head didn't take any damage but i decided to go ahead and upgrade to the Tarot DFC rotor head anyway, since i broke my tail boom and most of the tail box/rotor in that very same crash. I planned on ordering the Tarot boom, tail box and tail rotor anyway. So i included the DFC rotor in my order. I know a few people have been waiting/holding off on this upgrade till they had this information.

So here it is, the Tarot DFC upgrade for the V450D01. It's not horribly hard to pull off. But there are some modifications and you will need a dremel or some sand paper or a file and some patience.

First of all, I had heard somewhere that the DFC main shaft was too short and the key mark on the shaft for the locking collar would not line up correctly. So i went ahead and ordered some 5x11x4 ABEC-5 bearings to replace the top bearing with in case i needed an extra mm of clearance to get the collar lined up correctly on the key mark. Well i'm glad to say. While using the Align main gear and AR gear assembly. I did not need to replace the top main shaft bearing. If you have the walkera main gear and AR gear installed, this may be the 1mm difference i had heard about. But that is mere speculation. I am using the Walkera shaft collar. The collar fit the key mark perfectly and locked down on the bearing without any issue. So that was nice.

I have to say. My first impressions of this rotor head are quite good. Besides the pleasing aesthetics. It has also increased the physical performance and capability of the helicopter. There is significantly less (and i mean almost zero) slop and the rotor disk is rigid and agile than ever before! It has much more pitch authority now and it flips fast and hard now. the way it moves is a bit more stiff and robotic and i worry a bit about stress and fatigue on parts in 3D. But so far this DFC rotor head has definitely impressed me.

More information on the other modifications in the photo descriptions below.



V450BX to V450BX DFC Pro 05-11-13 (0 min 0 sec)


.
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Old May 16, 2013, 03:52 AM
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Tarot 450 pro tail boom & tail box upgrade

Tarot 450 pro tail boom & tail box upgrade



This upgrade is pretty straight forward. Just remember to thread lock everything yourself. The walkera tail rotor, slider and rocker arm will all fit this tail box directly. I ordered a thrust bearing tail grip set and a CNC rocker arm from tarot-rc-heli.com. It's been 9 business days so i don't want to wait any longer to post this information. When/if they arrive i will add those photos to this post. I will also be checking for cross compatibility of using the Tarot grips with the Walkera hardware. Just to see if the thrust grips can be called a "drop in" replacement for Walkera's grips and hub.

More information in the picture descriptions below.


.
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Old May 16, 2013, 04:13 AM
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Tarot 450 Pro CF rudder push rod modification and upgrade

Tarot 450 Pro CF rudder push rod modification and upgrade


The Tarot 450 Carbon fiber push rod is a nice upgrade after using it for the last week or so. After flying the Tarot tail & DFC rotor upgraded heli with the V450 rudder push rod and then after upgrading to the CF push rod. I can definitely say that the V450 push rod or sleeve were giving me issues with tail speed or something. There had to be some degree of flex or binding. With the CF push rod the tail is very precise and has less delay or lag when giving rudder inputs. They tail seems to have more authority in general.

Unfortunately the 450 Pro mounts the rudder servo inside the frame. So the 450 Pro CF push rod is a bit too long. It needs to be cut. I tried pulling the end caps with the linkages off with force. I tried heating them to break the glue down. But the CF actually became soft and it served no purpose. I ended up having to cut the CF rod at the end and then use tiny drill bits to drill the remaining piece of CF out of the CNC tip on one side. I started with a very small dril bit and work my way up to bigger bits. I just happened to have a diamond grinding wheel that fit inside the tip perfectly. At the lowest RPM possible i cleaned the CF out of the tip carefully till i could see metal again. I had forgotten to take pictures (sorry). But after removing the CF from the tip. I then cut the CF rod to my desired length and dipped the tip into some baking soda. I rubbed the tip with the powder and also inserted it into the tip to try and get a thin layer of baking soda between the CF and CNC tip. I then applied some CA to the CF rod and quickly crammed it into the CNC tip. It was a little bit gritty and you have to jam it in there fast and hard so it makes it in all the way before the CA sets. The grit from the baking soda will hopefully act as a pseudo epoxy that should bond between the porous CF and scratched and scuffed CA quite well. I just didn't feel like mixing a real epoxy and waiting for it to set over night. This has been working fine for over 10 flights now.
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Old Jun 02, 2013, 03:06 AM
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Tarot 450 CNC Tail rocker, slider, arms and thrust tail grips

Tarot 450 CNC Tail rocker, slider, arms and thrust tail grips

So, it took forever! But the rest of my Tarot upgrade parts arrived after a month of waiting. It took so long the distributor included some free items. One of which was the blade grip linkage arms that go between the slider and the grips. I ordered the CNC slider but it comes with plastic arms with brass bushings. These CNC arms come with bushing for the slider fastening but the blade grip side uses a tiny bearing. I am skeptical about the life of these bearings. But i am going to give them a shot. Bushings just seem sufficient and less likely to fail. We'll see what happens.

Anyway. All together the CNC tail pitch change assembly and thrust bearing grips really look nice. Going to test fly them later. Haven't had the chance yet.


UPDATE 06/04/13:
These new CNC tail steering setup and thrust grips is seeming to perform better than prior. I think my Walkera tail grip bearings were starting to go bad or something. I don't know. It seemed to blow the tail out a tiny bit occasionally. But it's flying really nice and tight now.

V450BX DFC Ripping it up with the new Tarot CNC slider and thrust tail grips (4 min 12 sec)
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Old Jan 31, 2014, 04:40 PM
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V450 to Tarot DFC - Swash Configuration Version 2

V450 to Tarot DFC - Swash Configuration Version 2


Okay, so recently my V200's servos started causing brownouts, so i yanked the HB800 gyro of off it and installed it on my 2nd V450 which had been sitting on my shelf for a while now. A few months back i ended up replacing all the servos on my Gaui X2. There was nothing wrong with them, i just wanted to get some new servos that i know will work and last since the X2 costs a bit more to crash than my 450s have. So the Gaui GS-093 servos went on this V450 that had been shelfed.

Now that i had a gyro for this heli again i began the setup. But the original Walkera tail and rotor head were giving me all kinds of vibrational issues which caused the heli to tip left on take off. Every time i thought i had it fixed, i didn't. So 3 sets of blades later i removed the Walkera tail boom, tail box, tail rotor, main rotor and rudder control rod. I then installed all the Tarot upgrades that my other V450 has become accustom to. This however presented the same problems as the last time i did these upgrades on what has now become my V480BX.

Those problems are:

#1. The swashplate anti-rotation guide is too narrow for the elevator linkage/ AR peg on the swash. (Solution is to sand or dremel the CF guide, previous posts cover this)

#2. The Tarot swashplate and rotor head use bigger balls than the Walkera balls. So some form of hybridization or modification of the linkages and tips needs to be done.

#3. Getting proper linkage geometry with upgraded servos on the V450 frame can be a problem. I will be trying a new solution for this problem this time around.

Those were the main issues i had from the last upgrade. However since i decided this time i don't want to hybridize my linkages with Tarot links on the top for the swashplate and Walkera links on the bottom for the servo horns, like the last time. This time i wanted to have this heli's linkages all be uniformly Tarot/Align size balls and links. Which brought be to the next problem.

#4. The Walkera mounting has the elevator servo mounted in such a way that the servo horn is protruding from the bottom of the servo, rather than closer to the top. This means that the linkage rod has to be longer than the aileron and pitch linkages.The Walkera linkage rods do have 1 longer rod for the elevator in their stock packages. But the rods are too fat for the Tarot linkage tips and the Tarot linkage rods are all one length. So using the tarot rods and tips with the elevator mounted in the stock way means that the linkage rod would be too short.

This last problem forced me to flip the elevator servo so that the servo horn was on the top of the servo rather than the bottom because i didn't want to ever have to fuss with drilling linkage tips to fit Walkera linkage rods. I also didn't want to have to buy Walkera parts anymore if i can avoid it. Having the servo flipped upside down made it so that the shorter Tarot linkage rods would work. It actually worked out perfectly. By simply turning the elevator servo upside down and flipping the servo horn to the proper side. I was able to keep the servo horns at 90░ and level the swash properly. Because i was able to make the elevator linkages shorter for the elevator than the aile. and pitch linkages. Being that the elevator's horn is now mounted higher than the other two with the servo being upside down. So i thought this worked out PERFECT, Right? Nope, this brought me to my next problem.

#5. With the elevator servo now flipped upside down from the stock mounting. When at max collective, the elevator servo horn could now bind on the bracket for the swash anti-rotation guide. The only way around this dilemma without switching back to hybridized linkage tips was to some how move the swash AR guide. Which is exactly what i did.

By removing he 6 screws that hold the swash AR guide in place, and simply flipping the whole thing around backwards. I was able to install the guide in a way that gave clearance to the elevator servo horn. However i was only able to use 4 screws to reattach the guide while installed backwards. In doing so, i blocked the screw hole that is used to mount the elevator servo on top. So i had to either drill a new hole and tap it with threads, or come up with another plan. Since i don't think i have a tap for screws this small. I came up with another plan. A CNC strap that holds the servo in place.



The CNC strap shown in the photo is out of my 4F200's parts box. It is a piece of the frame i had spare. I just drilled out one of the holes to fit the bolts, and drilled a second hole where i needed it. Then i needed some longer bolts to go through these straps, the CF panels and into the threaded CNC part for the swash guide. Over all it was a simple fix that only took me a few minutes.



The one big change that helped make this all come together with nearly perfect geometry this time was using the Gaui linkage balls from my X5 & X7 servo horn kits. They have bolts, a nut to lock behind the servo horn and extension bushings to extend the balls out away from the horn. By being able to use the extension bushing that fits right, i was able to get almost perfect Geometry. The Gaui balls are actually 4.8mm, i think the Tarot and Align balls are 4.75mm. So the Tarot linkages fit a little tight. But i figure they will wear in or otherwise the balls can pivot freely on the bolt. It should be fine, though i would prefer them to be loose and proper.





Below are the links for the Gaui ball link parts for the servo horn. I used a Tarot ball for the elevator and used the Gaui ones for the extension balls for the aileron and pitch servo. The linkage rods and tips are made by either Align or Tarot.

Balls: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-x5-...-8mm-g-208885/

Bolts: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-soc...aui-nx4-x4-x5/

Nuts: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-x5-...-pcs-g-208867/

Extension spacers: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-x5-...208884-217537/


Below is the link for the 4F200 part i used to make the CNC strap to hold the elevator servo in:
http://www.wowhobbies.com/trainingge...s-ultr-18.aspx
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Old Jun 28, 2014, 10:33 AM
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CNC Tail Stabilizer Mount

CNC Tail Stabilizer Mount


I finally got tired of replacing the plastic tail stabilizer/horizontal fin mount. I didn't break it very often, but the last time it broke I figured why not get the CNC one for the Align 450 Pro instead of the Walkera parts. Especially since i already have enough spare rudder guides and servo mounts from replacing the stabilizer mount in the past. I have to say, I really like the CNC one. It clamps the boom better than the plastic one did and hopefully will hold up to a blade strike, we'll see. The only problem i had was fitting the stabilizer rod mounting bolt through the stabilizer rod s CNC tip. But i just drilled it out a bit and it was fine, plenty of material left after drilling.





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