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Old Sep 23, 2012, 05:26 AM
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Build Log
Custom V450 - Parts Build & Mods

Custom V450 - Parts Build & Mods

I am starting this build log for my V450D01 built from new parts. As well as any other modifications, repairs or upgrades. I would also consider this one of the cheapest and ways to get into a 450 size CP heli. You should be able to buy all the parts incrementally and build each section as your budget allows. This log, should be more than enough to help you with your first 450 build.

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Index:

#1 - Index - This Post.

#2 - V450 Tail Section Assembly

#3 - V450 Airframe Assembly & Mods

#4 - Pressing One Way Bearings, cheaply

#5 - V450 Hybrid Align Main Gear / Drive Assembly

#6 - V450 Main Rotor Assembly / Modifications

#7 - Savox Servo, Electronics Install + Swash & follower leveling

#8 - Removing locktited Tail hub for tail repairs

#9 - V450 Painted Canopies

#10 - Canopy Durability Liner

#11 - Alternative Rudder Rod & RX Mounting

#12 - Straightening V450 Main Rotor Shafts

#13 - Canopy Durability Liner Crash #1

#14 - "New" swash needs different config with "old" rotor

#15 - Upgrade to BeastX phase 1

#16 - BeastX phase 1, Part 2 - Flight Test & Review

#17 - V450 Tail Shaft Assembly Using WK Gear Puller

#18 - Savox 0257MG & Align servo Impact Saver Mod.

#19 - Spekturm Satellite RX Physical install photos - BeastX Phase 1 Part 2.

#20 - V450D01 - Tarot DFC Rotor head upgrade!

#21 - Tarot 450 pro tail boom & tail box upgrade

#22 - Tarot 450 Pro CF rudder push rod modification and upgrade

#23 - Tarot 450 CNC Tail rocker, slider, arms and thrust tail grips

#24 - V450 to Tarot DFC - Swash Configuration Version 2

#25 - CNC Tail Stabilizer Mount


Parts List:



The images and information found in this build log is that of my own experience. It should be used as a reference point only. You should check your work carefully and against other sources for accuracy. In other words do your own research. Also, you should always use proper safety procedures. I will not be responsible if you experience any damages or injury by following this information.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 01:51 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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V450 Tail Section Assembly

V450 Tail Section Assembly

When i get around to it comments may be added later.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 03:48 PM
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V450 Airframe Assembly & Mods

V450 Airframe Assembly & Mods

Here is the install images and some info for the Airframe.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Pressing One Way Bearings, cheaply.

Pressing One Way Bearings, cheaply

You can buy a tool to press and remove your bearings from the gear base. But i have other methods. I have used a few different brands of OWB in the V450. But buying the whole OWB with gear base from Walkera is just too expensive. They don't sell just the OWB, like every other 450 mfg. The Align ones are basically the standard and seem to actually live though a few crashes. The cheaper $3 bearings seem to break easily in a crash. Most of the time saving the main gear. But a main gear only costs about $3 too, so its up to you what you use. I stick with Align personally.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 04:33 PM
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V450 Hybrid Align Main Gear / Drive Assembly

V450 Hybrid Align Main Gear / Drive Assembly

Of course you can use the Walkera main gear and assembly. But the fact is they are not as well designed and are more expensive than the align gears to replace. Align gears also have a patented internal fan design, which helps to cool your electronics. If your using the stock Walkera stuff, this is very beneficial. Because they run very hot, especially the motor. So in this segment i will be installing the Align main gear assembly including the AR gear and shaft collar. An Align OWB is also being used inside the Walkera gear base, installed in the main gear.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 05:59 PM
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V450 Main Rotor Assembly / Modifications

V450 Main Rotor Assembly / Modifications

The main rotor it's self comes assembled. I always take it apart, at least partially to check for thread lock. I also had some other modifications I wanted to incorporate while doing so. Some for looks and some for 3D performance.

Installed below is a Stock Walkera rotor head. I will be installing an Align stopper cap for looks and i will also be installing some very hard Trueblood green dampers on the feathering shaft. The Dampers are much harder than the stock WK dampers and should make the rotor more rigid. This should help increase pitch response for 3D. Of course i also have images from assembly of the swash stabilizer too.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Savox Servo, Electronics Install + Swash leveling

Savox Servo, Electronics Install + Swash & follower leveling

The following info will be basic install info on the install of the Savox servos using one stock ball link and 2 Blade 450 (long) links and basic electronics. Many people have done videos and posted their settings for the 2702V and how to actually do the end points setup and all of that. I may cover the actual 2702V setup at a later time.

I will also show some images and basics of the swash leveling and how i set my pitch to zero (loosely) without using a pitch gauge. Plus maybe a few other things.


UPDATE 01/01/13:
I figure maybe i should put some information here about the electronics I'm using and some of the setup data for this build.


CopterX 430XL 3550kv motor.

8 Poles
3550kv
3.5mm shaft
Using a 13T pinion.

Hobbywing Skywalker 40A ESC.
Changed the below settings.

Breaking: OFF!
Start Mode: Soft
Timing: Low

Hobbywing Platinum Pro 40A ESC.
Changed the below settings.

Start mode: Soft
Timing: 7.5░
Governor mode: Off or High (TX must be setup for gov mode. Otherwise leave off. More on that later)
PWM Frequency: 8kHz
Bec Output: 6V
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 02:43 AM
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Removing locktited Tail hub for tail repairs

Removing locktited Tail hub for tail repairs

As shown in this build log, I use a glob of thread lock all inside the tail rotor hub to secure the tail rotor. I have had them come off even with the key mark. So i apply thread lock to the tail shaft and then install the hub. This will make the tail rotor hub nearly glued to the shaft. The problem with this is when it comes to having to do maintenance or repairs to the tail shaft, steering slider or other parts. It will be nearly impossible to just yank the tail hub off. So this is how i remove mine using a Walkera pinion/gear puller.




This is what it looks like on the shaft after removal:

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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:25 PM
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V450 Painted Canopies

V450 Painted Canopies

Using electrical tape you can mask of areas of the canopy and paint the rest. Below are some examples of one's I've done in the past.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Canopy Durability Liner

Canopy Durability Liner

For a long time i used to line the inside of the V450 with packing tape. This helped keep it from shattering, splitting, or cracking. I once dropped a canopy out of my hand and it landed nose first on the tile. It literally shattered the nose! Ever since i have been lining the inside to prevent that brittle reaction from happening.

After 2 of my friends broke their smart phone screens. While i have dropped mine dozens of times without breaking mine. I started to wonder why my phone, being the same exact phone was so much more resilient. I started asking them about how they protected their phone. The irony is BOTH use a very expensive otter box and BOTH broke their screen inside the otter box. This was fascinating to me because i was using a $8 rubber jacket thing. It just kind of griped over the back of the phone. I'm sure this rubber material absorbed some of the impacts. But there is no way that was the only thing that saved me! The one guy used a screen protector, that was actually still attached to the shattered screen. The other was using no screen protector. Where as i on the other hand was using a $20 military grade Invisishield screen protector. Anyone who has ever used one of these knows they are thicker, denser, and nearly rubber like in consistency. I'm positive that rubber like coating being tightly sealed against the glass was enough to absorb and nullify most impact shockwaves. Not only that but the rubber sticking to the glass also strengthens it just by being there. kind of like how two pieces of paper can be that much harder to fold than one.

Anyway, i decided it's time to try and mimic that result with my Walkera V450D01. First rubber like coating experiment will/has been applied. I am trying this spray on rubber coating. The particular brand i used was called plasti-dip




The spray dries just like rubber and sticks like paint. Unfortunately it kind of messed up the paint i put on the outside of the canopy. So you should definately coat the inside first. Clean the outside with alcohol to remove any overspray before it dries. Then paint the outside after allowing the plasti-dip to dry overnight. Here is what it looks like, at least for this one that was already painted. If this works out, it will hopefully beat lining the inside with packing tape.


UPDATE:
I have lined a few canopies so far and they seem to at the least keep the canopy from shattering. Both on my V450 and V200/ 4f200. The nose shattering was especially annoying. This no longer happens. Then you can CA glue back together the other parts, usually still held together by the rubber liner. My canopies are definitely more durable after being lined. But they still unfortunately crack and break. Here was a result i recorded and posted a few posts down: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post23237831
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Alternative Rudder Rod & RX Mounting

Alternative Rudder Rod & RX Mounting


Here is a rehash of Heliflyer711's rudder control rod mod with a little update from me. On the middle section under the horizontal stabilizer i use a brass bushing that came from the inside of the 4f200's tail steering rocker and CA it in. That section would always break using the plastic tubing. The rest are actually a piece of the plastic tubing still.




Also, i have started mounting my RX to the shelf with less tape. The extreme mounting tape with a 10 lb. hold makes it very hard to remove with the full strip.

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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:44 AM
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Straightening V450 Main Rotor Shafts

Straightening V450 Main Rotor Shafts

Warning, Straightening your shafts might harden them in different spots. This is actually a bad thing because it makes the shaft more likely to snap instead of bend. If you follow this instruction do so at your own risk and use safety gear and precautions while straightening and flying the shafts. This should probably only be used as a temporary fix until you receive your new shaft.

Straightening V450D01 Main Rotor Shaft (6 min 1 sec)
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:12 PM
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Canopy Durability Liner Crash #1

Canopy Durability Liner Crash #1

Well, it sure did take a while before i crashed this time. After watching the video a few times now and thinking about it. I'm still not clear on the actual cause of the crash. It was either the battery not giving the juice and i had a temporary brown out or the gyro went a little kooky and nose dived it's self. Either way, the durability liner kept the canopy from cracking or splitting. The typical nose shattering did not occur and it's likely at least the bottom of the canopy made contact with the ground even though the skids probably took most of the impact. It was not by any means a light crash diving into the ground at near full head speed.


V450D01 - Sudden gyro dive or voltage drain (3 min 43 sec)
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:54 PM
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"New" swash needs different config with "old" rotor

"New" swash needs different config with "old" rotor


By setting the swash mixing to 100 - 100 - 100 and going though the RX neutral and end point setup again. Then lowering the pitch to 90 i got the heli to approximately the same rotation rate and response on the cyclic as on my other V450D01 which is still using the "Old" swash with a mixing of 80 - 80 - 80. I should note that using the "new" swash on that heli yielded the same limited response. So it is not the RX or other variable between the two helicopters.

The original all CNC and brass swashplates are not currently available anymore. The "New" V450D01 swashplates are listed and available in some places in the US. But most places like wow hobbies and others have the "old" swash pictured. But for the time being, what arrives will be the "New" swashplate. Not a big deal except for the fact that they ARE NOT THE SAME. The new swashplate is now half plastic, encasing the ball joint for the main shaft. The new design is taller than the old style and it limits the cyclic response and rotation rate in flips and rolls VERY much if you use one with the old style rotor heads. Which is likely the case, if you happen to have a 1 month, 3 month, 6 month or year old version of this heli (which is almost everyone really) and crashed it recently, in the last say 4 months. The "New" V450D01 rotor head is also redesigned and has longer ball links on the blade grips to compensate for this new lack of movement on the "new" version swashplate. The stopper cap is also bigger as a result of the longer swash links. In my opinion the longer swash links will be MORE likely to take damage in a crash now because of the increased pressure that will be applied at the root because they are longer. Same thing with ejection of the stopper cap. Think of a lever, the longer it is the more force can be exerted on the opposite end. So in a crash these things are going to go flying. No individual grips are sold or ball links or anything! Not only that, the only way to replace them is to buy a WHOLE new rotor head. Yet, for some reason. Should you even be able to find one for sale in the US. The "New" v450d01 rotor heads now cost as much/more than an Align 450 DFC rotor head in their retail pricing.

I for one will be buying a Align 450 DFC rotor head and swash to install on my heli when i have the funds or break this swash. Which ever comes first. But with the 100 - 100 - 90 swash mixing and your pick of expo %. The heli seems to be flying nicely for now. But i'm not paying $29 for the "new" swash, EVER! and neither should you! Of course this build log will be updated when the change is made.


V450D01 - "New" swash needs different config with "old" rotor (0 min 0 sec)
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Upgrade to BeastX phase 1

Upgrade to BeastX phase 1


Okay so phase one is the BeastX with the 2801-pro as the RX/TX. This way i will have a accurate comparison between the the two and weather or not i see any downfalls to the 2801 or not. Besides the physical "feel" of the sticks. I do much prefer my Spektrum DX8. Phase two will be with a Spektrum remote receiver when I get one. Completing the full conversion to Spektrum/BeastX.

I didn't get any patch cords for the ÁBeast, from where i bought it, to plug into the RX. It did however come with the adapter for a Spektrum remote receiver though. I had to make my own patch cables up for the RX. NOT A PROBLEM! Walkera has provided me with handfuls of used or burnt out servos. THANKS WALKERA! So, i simply cut a few of those wires and soldered them together. Everything went well. The install is completed and i have done a few test hovers and minor tuning in my driveway. It felt good once i got it tuned a little bit. But it's still a little hard to really do anything with or fly around much in my drive way. I won't know more till i get out to the field. I'm sure i'll have to do more tuning and some mechanical tweeking. I think my heli had some vibes coming from the cheap FRP blades that the uBeast didn't like. So i balanced some mis-matched orphan blades and test flew those. Since i couldn't seem to fix the FRP set. The mis-matched, now balanced set were a little better. So I will try to give it a test flight tomorrow at the field or park. More info and probably video when i can.
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