sorry I was a little excited.I did use the Olliw's AvrBurnTool I found on the vtail mixer thread It seamed to be working I was able to burn the
olliw_coax_mixer_firmware_v007_wbootloader_m328p_1 6mhz file and get a OK after the burn I tryed it but did not work with the escs. Then I checked the raido all was working right. so I tryed to make the USB=TTL to use with the Olliw's AvrConfig tool but I do not have the right resistor (on order) it tryed to work but would not.
Olliw I'm thanking that I have my confidence to try and build the GA250 gyromixer now. All the parts have came in now. We can try and fix this mini pro comixer but becouse it's 16mhz maybe the reason we are having so many problems what do you think I do not wont to wast much of your time.

Well done Sonnier! Well done!

I am stunned the 16mhz version works at all to be honest.
Here is the entire build blog OlliW did here at RCgroups that will walk you right through this stuff, Keep in mind it was my first run through also and my first attempt at programming anything with few computer skills to boot. So I think I encountered every problem there is. lollz...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=ultim+gyromix

Now I am also using this from HK. But they are out at the moment it seems.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21321

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

Well done Sonnier! Well done!

I am stunned the 16mhz version works at all to be honest.
Here is the entire build blog OlliW did here at RCgroups that will walk you right through this stuff, Keep in mind it was my first run through also and my first attempt at programming anything with few computer skills to boot. So I think I encountered every problem there is. lollz...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=ultim+gyromix

Now I am also using this from HK. But they are out at the moment it seems.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21321

thanks for the suport it gives me more confidence
that is the same UBSaps I'm using can that be used to talk to the gyromixer after it's made though the b motor lead?

Hey Sonnier,

I am a bit confused as regards the status of the coax mixer, is it working or isn't it?
(in your second-last post it first sounded as it did and in the last sentence as if it doesn't).

I wouldn't find it satisfying if it still wouldn't work... I tend to be persistent on such matters and would be glad if we would continue to work together on getting it to run properly.

I mean, you have done a great job and everything looks very well done, so - I am confident - the problem is just a tiny little bugger somewhere, which is just not easily spotted. The 16MHz is certainly a problem, and it would be easier if I would have also a 16 MHz version... but that's exactly what I find interesting to figure out.

Cheers, Olli

BTW: with the USBasp the correct setting in AvrBurnTool v001 in the first entry line is USBasp and not other choice, as you figured out yourself.

BTW: no, the USBasp unit can NOT be used to talk to the coaxmixer or the GA250 gyromixer after having been flashed. For both you need e.g. this unit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...roller_5V.html, and have to build the connecting cable using the resitor (and mabye a diode).
(Luv, as compared to then we started a year ago or so, hasn't this item become incredibly cheap? Thx, HK!)

Ok
Olliw we will fix the comixer I'm the same Olliw I do like to finish what i start.

When I flash the mini pro I get leds flashing on the usb and the mini pro. The burn tool shows it writing taken the burn but when I connect the heli it dose not work.

I have this unit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...roller_5V.html also.

I do like to finish what i start.

great

So, do I get this right:

if you flash the hex file OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex then after power-up first the green led lights up for a very short moment and then starts to blink rapidly?
[yes/no]

if you flash the hex file olliw_coax_mixer_firmware_v007_wbootloader_m328p_1 6mhz.hex then after power-up the green led is not doing anything at all, i.e., is permanently off?
[yes/no]

what does the green led do if you flash the hex file olliw_coax_mixer_firmware_v007_m328p_16mhz.hex?

I am quite confused that the green led was doing something before, but now doesn't flash or blink at all...

Then you hit the "Burn" button within AvrBurnTool a second window opens, in which a script runs which ends with saying "preass any key to continue...". Could you attach a screen shot of this window then it shows this "press any key...." message?

Do you have any means to measure the output voltage of your BESCs (e.g. with a multimeter or such)? If so, what is their voltage?

Olliw,
well i just burn it again got the same reaction as i did the first time with the leds as it was flashing the unit see pic

I put the unit in the heli and powered up steady blue led steady green 1sec slower blink i-2sec faster blink 2sec then steady green led

and BINGO THE HELI WORKED

the third pic is what i will need to talk to the unit right

Olliw,
It works now so good I was flying and smoked one of the motors. The motor lead shorted out. I just dont have any luck with the c10 motors I'm using. Do you know the required KV or RPM need to fly CX 2 type Helis?

ARE ANY ONE OUT THERE????

CONGRATS
great job, glad it works now.

Do you have any idea what was going wrong before? It seems that thre is a minor pitfall somewhere in doing this, and I would love to know...

the third pic is what i will need to talk to the unit right

yes, though not EXACTLY that one... instead of the sparkfun unit there is now this much much much cheaper option from HK I gave a link in the above... it is technically EXACTLY the same thing

BTW: for the coaxmixer and the GA250 gyromixer you don't need this additional resistor you were talking about in the baove. You also don't really need the switch and teh attached power plug which you see in the photo. The only thing youreally need is the USB-FTDI adapter and one servo cable with a female plug. Solder then the black/brown ground line to GND at the USB-FTDI adapeter, and the white/orange signal wire to the RX and TX pads (which you electrically connect) at the USB-FTDI adapter.

Originally Posted by OlliW

CONGRATS
great job, glad it works now.

Do you have any idea what was going wrong before? It seems that thre is a minor pitfall somewhere in doing this, and I would love to know... .

Olliw think what i did was burn all three hex files that you sent me the first time i burned the unit. So that could be the cause of the problem you thank?

E2 sent his suggestion for a motor to use did you see them. I am going to use the http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...r+for+Mini+E.P what do you thank?

Olliw,
What do I need to do read and adjust the comixer. I have built the adapter. I have attached a simple diagram of what I built. Is it right?

The fact you toasted the garbage C10 motors isn't a mystery as they often times used aluminum composite wiring instead of copper. The 1811-2900 motor you pm'd me about is the preferred motor to use. Not sure about its exact KV since I run mine all on 3s. The trick is letting them breath with some airflow over the cans and they stay cool. The ones E2 linked he still hasn't tried them yet to my knowledge.

The required rpm changes from heli to heli depending on weight, blades, and flight conditions. I recently had my best results (other than my dual swashed versions) using heavier helis with cheapo china white blades and running 3s 1000ma batts. The OlliW gyromixer is locked in on mine! I fly it fast instead of hovering around.

Outstanding work here!

Originally Posted by OlliW

(Luv, as compared to then we started a year ago or so, hasn't this item become incredibly cheap? Thx, HK!)

Oh yeah! Thanks for the link, I may pick one of these up just to have. This beats the old prices to death.

Sonnier, sorry, missed your last post

I have built the adapter. I have attached a simple diagram of what I built. Is it right?

yes. You have however also to invert the Rx and Tx lines of the FTDI adapter, the how to is described in the idiot's guide for the alternative GA250 firmware (you have to run the program FT_PROG.exe, you can do this form AvrConfig via the tools menu)

What do I need to do read and adjust the comixer.

you connect the coaxmixer at its MotB plug with the FTDI to a PC and run the program AvrConfig from the coaxmixer folder (it should be run from the coaxmixer folder!) You then hit connect and then power up the coaxmixer. Once connected you can do your read and writes.

I am going to use the http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...r+for+Mini+E.P what do you thank?

I have no experience, and I know only about one person who tried them... but he found them good... should give you a hell of power already at 2S
will be interesting to hear your experience with them

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

The fact you toasted the garbage C10 motors isn't a mystery as they often times used aluminum composite wiring instead of copper. The 1811-2900 motor you pm'd me about is the preferred motor to use. Not sure about its exact KV since I run mine all on 3s. The trick is letting them breath with some airflow over the cans and they stay cool. The ones E2 linked he still hasn't tried them yet to my knowledge.

The required rpm changes from heli to heli depending on weight, blades, and flight conditions. I recently had my best results (other than my dual swashed versions) using heavier helis with cheapo china white blades and running 3s 1000ma batts. The OlliW gyromixer is locked in on mine! I fly it fast instead of hovering around.

Outstanding work here!

Thank you Sr
Not that it maters but do you if they need to be drilled and taped?