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Old Sep 25, 2012, 04:52 PM
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WOW, great model shop! Where do I send my resume?
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 06:03 PM
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jayjay,

Here are two pictures of the original Miss Chief Speedster. It looks like 5 1/2 planks on the sides and 12 planks on each side of the deck in between the margin board and king plank. I believe the Miss Behave uses the same number of planks.

I used 10 planks on the side of my model an 14 planks on each side of the deck in between the big planks. And I used perfling between the planks on the deck. It is used on guitar construction.

Ed
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Ed- On the kit of the MISS BEHAVE, we used 10 pcs. 1/2” wide mahogany planking from the chine to the deck. On the deck we used 13pcs. of 1/4” wide mahogany planking with black caulk lines from the king plank to the covering boards on each side.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=3974732
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig_c View Post
Ye be gatherin' fans
Plus 1.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 01:22 PM
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Stuttgart, Germany
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I have to wait a few days to cut the next sheet of parts, the cnc machine is busy cutting real work, but luckily I received "mahogany in scale" today so I have something to do in the meantime!
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 03:17 AM
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I'm ordering the mahogany planking today, I don't plan to stain the mahogany and would prefer to start with a darker species for the kingplank and coverboards to minimize or avoid staining at all.

can anyone make a recommendation? Here is a list of whats available from my source:

Oak - oak smoked - Teak - Larch - Cherry - Mahogany - Walnut - Meerbau - Wenge - Bubinga - maple - Jatoba - Elderberry - Abachi - Redceder - Ash - pear - Roubinie - Roubinie smoked - Hornbeam - Redceder - red oak
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Hi Jason,
You have a great selection of wood available, many of which are considered "exotics" here in the states and very expensive. Considering you want to avoid staining, the darker species in your list are walnut, wenge, and jatoba (also called Brazilian Cherry in some areas). I have made furniture using all three. Jatoba can be resinous and gummy, so needs to be well cleaned before gluing and varnishing, with acetone or something similar. Wenge can be brittle and difficult to bend, it splinters easily. Walnut is by far the easiest to work with, it machines well and has decent flexibility when cut in thin slices like deck planks. It also has great grain characteristics so it its very pleasing to the eye. The color can vary from medium to very dark brown, and appears slightly darker once varnished. I am suprised you don't have Sappelle available, its an African species (sometimes called African Mahogany) that can be quite dark in color.You do have some other species listed that I am not familiar with (Abachi and Roubine), so maybe you can check these out with a local woodworker. I usually go to the lumber yard and compare the species next to each other for color and grain, so I can hand pick the pieces I want.

Also, all of these woods tend to fade to a lighter color after long exposure to UV, so consider using a varnish that has UV inhibitors.

Pete
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 05:04 PM
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Jayson,

I would recommend using mahogany for everything. It has a nice grain and is easy to work with. Staining is not a problem if you tape off the area you don't want stained with some good tape.

This is how I did my speedster.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...993127&page=11

Ed
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Stuttgart, Germany
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Thanks for the replies, I got the offer today for the mahogany, 50€ which I'm not thrilled about. I'll add a set of planks for the king plank and coverboards in walnut. I have a nice bottle of walnut stain to experiment with before I decide what to do. It'll have to wait until next month to order though, we just bought tickets to go home for Christmas. But I have plenty to keep me busy.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Milled the second sheet of parts today, I didn't get a chance to take any photos yet but the tweaks I've made based on the first sheet worked out well. One more sheet to cut and I'll be ready to start building! Meanwhile I'll use this weekend to document the 3D modeling process for those who are interested.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 05:20 AM
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It looks like deck hardware is going to cost around $100 which is a good price considering the workmanship, materials, and facilities required to produce them, but still needs chrome plating and doesn't go along with my scratch build concept. Not to mention the fact that I would have to tell my wife that I want to spend $100 on what amounts to earrings for my boat. I cringe at the thought!

Since I have access to CNC equipment I will cut molds from my own 3D cad data and try my hand at casting pewter! It can be polished to a high shine, not as nice as chrome but close, and I did a little research to find the right material, zamak 2. 500g for only 12€ shipped, I should be able to mill the molds out of renshape scraps, I hope it stands up to the 230C temperature long enough to produce at least 3-4 parts before wearing out!

Now to start the 3D modeling!
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 10:36 AM
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The third and final sheet of parts were cut today, it was the most complex with 16.5 meters of cutting paths, vs. 12 meters for sheets one and two. Whew, glad that's over!

Now to mark each part with a pencil before popping them out, then a bit of sanding to square up the slots, and I'll start assembly.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Photos!!

A few questions:
  1. How long does it take to cut a sheet?
  2. Do you leave the part thinly attached all the way around, or just leave a few conneting tabs to keep the part in place?
  3. How many iterations of the cut path to get the cut to the depth you want?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Hey Pete, photos tomorrow, but here are the answers to your questions:

1. The milling time was 1:15 for the first sheet, it was the simplest but we used 4 steps, for the second sheet we reduced to 3 steps and so it took about 1:00. The last sheet which was the most complex, it took 1:30.
2. I left strategically placed gaps to allow small bridges of material so the parts didn't pop loose.
3. three passes of each line, 1.1mm each time.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 03:03 AM
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Lots of progress this weekend!!
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