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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:16 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
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Originally Posted by shultz View Post
First two real flights with some room to work with. first video is flown on 2's, The "touch and GO" was due to that little lack of punch when using 2's. Videos are still up loading, have to go to work

http://youtu.be/ZdtcbmqiQwk



Froggy on 3's... Ilike it!!


http://youtu.be/3q6EwULJTSA
Umphhhh....not a single cartwheel!!! Good flying John. The 2S looked like good performance. I can't wait to see it in person.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:24 AM
dougmontgomery's Avatar
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nice work, Can you post a link to your flight controller? That thing is rock solid.

Now you have to mop and do chores for a week to repay your great wife!! Tell her nice video! shes hired.

I am so glad you have one of these John.

doug
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by shultz View Post
Are you using rudder(yaw)? it sounds like your just using roll, then when the tail starts to falling behind the nose your adding power. flying a nice circle requires, a little roll/pitch control, a LOT of yaw control and a little throttle just to keep it at a nice altitude.

Enter the circle at a comfortable altitude for you, as you go in give it some roll to start the turn and then YAW to keep the tail from falling behind the nose(front), use pitch to keep the copter slightly nose down and throttle to keep the altitude. As you go around you'll need to add/remove roll, add/ease off Yaw, add/remove pitch and add/remove throttle...ALL at the same time.

Hope this helps... lot's STICK time is the key.

John
thank a lot John
I'll try to do like you said later today
thank aLot bro, you are first member show me the way to flight,
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 04:25 PM
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Doug, the FC is a Multiwii code based board called the Nanowii, you could buy them here when in stock

http://flyduino.net/NanoWii-ATmega32...-MultiWii-FC_1
EDIT:
Viacopter has them in stock, I ordered from paul at flyduino, the boards are the same.
http://viacopter.eu/index.php?page=s...mart&Itemid=53

More than you ever will need to know about the Nanowii can be found in this thread:

http://flyduino.net/NanoWii-ATmega32...-MultiWii-FC_1


I have 2 of these boards and will probably buy more, they just fly NICE! the down side, they are not near as easy as a KK board. The board is not populated with pins, for me this is great, I can add what I want/need vs having every pin possible on the board, and use vertical or 90 degree header pins as I see fit. soldering the header pins is not hard to me, some my find it a daunting task.

Then you have to program it, this is something like flashing a KK, however instead of picking a Tri/ quad what ever firmware you have to select the bits of code you need. May sound hard but its really easy once you do it a few times. The biggest plus is the fact I can do many things in the code that I can understand and easily do myself, I can't say the same for editing/creating Hex base code for a KK, for this I have to rely on others hard work.

Once you get the hang of setting up the code you have a GUI interface that you fine tune the board from, this feature is really nice and more in depth than turning some pots! you have much more control over the gyro's ACC and so on. again, the first few times its kinda confusing, you can find lot's of help to get you started.

Multiwii has much more to offer than KK, you just have to jump in and use the bits you want/need.

BTW, the Nanowii does have an "auto level" feature(ACC), it works fine but I hardly every use it, gyro's are all I need. I didn't use it at all in the videos michelle shot for me.

John
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Last edited by shultz; Oct 04, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:02 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shultz View Post
Doug, the FC is a Multiwii code based board called the Nanowii, you could buy them here when in stock

http://flyduino.net/NanoWii-ATmega32...-MultiWii-FC_1
EDIT:
Viacopter has them in stock, I ordered from paul at flyduino, the boards are the same.
http://viacopter.eu/index.php?page=s...mart&Itemid=53

More than you ever will need to know about the Nanowii can be found in this thread:

http://flyduino.net/NanoWii-ATmega32...-MultiWii-FC_1


I have 2 of these boards and will probably buy more, they just fly NICE! the down side, they are not near as easy as a KK board. The board is not populated with pins, for me this is great, I can add what I want/need vs having every pin possible on the board, and use vertical or 90 degree header pins as I see fit. soldering the header pins is not hard to me, some my find it a daunting task.

Then you have to program it, this is something like flashing a KK, however instead of picking a Tri/ quad what ever firmware you have to select the bits of code you need. May sound hard but its really easy once you do it a few times. The biggest plus is the fact I can do many things in the code that I can understand and easily do myself, I can't say the same for editing/creating Hex base code for a KK, for this I have to rely on others hard work.

Once you get the hang of setting up the code you have a GUI interface that you fine tune the board from, this feature is really nice and more in depth than turning some pots! you have much more control over the gyro's ACC and so on. again, the first few times its kinda confusing, you can find lot's of help to get you started.

Multiwii has much more to offer than KK, you just have to jump in and use the bits you want/need.

BTW, the Nanowii does have an "auto level" feature(ACC), it works fine but I hardly every use it, gyro's are all I need. I didn't use it at all in the videos michelle shot for me.

John
Paul's out of Nanowii's? OMG...I guess I'll just have to wait to order my next two (that'll make six of them for me). I do like the Nanowii's...'cept some of my frames don't like them much (F330 until I added flashed ESCs and some LPF filtering, and my Tri-mini which either death wobbled with stock ESCs or drops out of the sky with flashed ESCs. The Nanowii's work great on my other frames though.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Umphhhh....not a single cartwheel!!! Good flying John. The 2S looked like good performance. I can't wait to see it in person.

Nope not a single cartwheel or pancake... just an unintended "touch and go" or maybe Bounce and Go

The I-power 2208's at 1100Kv are fairly close to my turnigy 300's(1380Kv), maybe a little less power on 2's due to lower Kv. I think it would be hard to tell them apart given an identical frame/weight. the one big advantage with the 2208's is the sightly larger size, for 3's they handle the extra current better than my 300's(less heat build up)

Over all I think the frog as set up is nicely powered on 2 or 3's. 2's is much easier to keep the frog smooth, 3's gives you a little touchy throttle, nothing a throttle curve won't fix. with 3's you have the option of loading the frog for FPV/camera work, I think on 2's the extra weight would be to much, it would fly but not very well.

The frame feels nice and smooth in flight, no funky tendencies or bad habits I can see thus far. tail mech works very well, smooth and solid. The HS-81MG servo is probably over kill, any 9g servo could be used IMHO, Mg or resin.

It was in the 70's this morning, on 2's no heat at all for the ESC's or motors. On 3's slightly warm. when I temped the 130 degrees and 120 degrees yesterday on 3's it was still in the high 90's outside and sunny. 3's may be a little to much on a HOT day, the motors would be fine but the 10A ESC's would be to hot I think.

John
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Doug, any news on the new frames? The green I sprayed is just not a bright as the toxic green!

Speaking of, I shot the natural G10 with Fluorescent green from Krylon. It's not bad but even with a light coat it's not as "fluorescent" as I would like, I learned early on more is not better with this paint... it just turns DARK green

John
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 07:33 PM
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thank a lot John
I'll try to do like you said later today
thank aLot bro, you are first member show me the way to flight,
Glad to help, if you have any more question's feel free to PM me.

John
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 08:11 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Originally Posted by shultz View Post
Doug, any news on the new frames? The green I sprayed is just not a bright as the toxic green!

Speaking of, I shot the natural G10 with Fluorescent green from Krylon. It's not bad but even with a light coat it's not as "fluorescent" as I would like, I learned early on more is not better with this paint... it just turns DARK green

John
Something I learned with florescent paint...white base coat (white primer is fine), then florescent on top of that...otherwise it comes out kind of flat.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Something I learned with florescent paint...white base coat (white primer is fine), then florescent on top of that...otherwise it comes out kind of flat.
Yeah, I did that on my wood frames that I shot with the florescent green, worked OK until I thought "one more coat it will be perfect" nope... just went dark. On the frog I was hoping the natural translucent G10 would give a good enough back ground with just a "mist" coat of paint, it worked out OK, just a little darker than I would have liked but far better than the too thickly coated wood frames... I suck at painting

John
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by shultz View Post
Doug, any news on the new frames? The green I sprayed is just not a bright as the toxic green!

Speaking of, I shot the natural G10 with Fluorescent green from Krylon. It's not bad but even with a light coat it's not as "fluorescent" as I would like, I learned early on more is not better with this paint... it just turns DARK green

John

no not yet, I do not want to bug him and I am curious as all *&## what they are going to cost me. It was a Ill send it too you and well figure it out kind of thing.

He will be cutting hopefully if all goes well two Frogs and two mini tris.

May be this weekend he cuts.

doug
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 09:56 PM
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Sounds good Doug, no hurry.... be ready to ship tomorrow right

Honestly, a week or two would be great. I want to put more time on the Frog and effort into flying in general and get things ready for the Funfly in two weeks. Along with flying and such it's also a swap meet of sorts, I plan to get a few things that are just collecting dust out of the garage in into someone elses garage... I need to remove the inch of dust first!

John
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:33 PM
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I spent a little time with the Frogcopter in my backyard today, The more I fly it the more I like it and think 2's is really perfect for all but FPV/camera flying on this set up.

When doing flips down low I found I just needed to add throttle quicker and more of it to stop the descents faster, yeah more power(3's) is helpful buts its not needed.

No new video as my wife is working, maybe I can talk Lee into shooting some in the morning.

Doug, you really did a nice job designing and setting up this frame!!

John
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 10:02 PM
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John, I am glad you like It, I hope I can sell a few and make a little money on them. The hardest part on the Frog and the this and the Trimini will be getting the pillow blocks made.

did your fc bolt right on?

On the next batch-

I will modifye the slot under the board so it can use a piece a velcro and a battery strap per your recommendation.

Doug
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Doug,
My small Nanowii FC would not bolt right on without adding holes for it. Since I use a top ring and suspend the FC from it anyway this was not an issue for me, my top ring has standard 45mm mounting holes so I just put some stand-off's on the frame using existing holes for mounting the top ring.

Good news on the velcro strap. I use a little velcro on the frame/battery to keep the battery from sliding, then a single strap to hold the battery in place. I suppose just the velcro on the frame/battery would be enough... the way I toss it around in the air I like the extra security of a strap

John

EDIT:

Doug, I took another look and I see what happened for the 30mm FC mounting holes... on the frame doubler 2 of the holes didn't get marked. If you look at the frame from the bottom the marking holes are all there, simple matter of opening them up for 3mm screws.
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Last edited by shultz; Oct 05, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
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