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Old Sep 17, 2012, 09:10 AM
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Somewhere in the Black Forest
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The FMS P-51 Mustang - Version 6

Since spring 2012 I am flying version 6 of the P-51 model and I am very happy with it. Of course, I did some modifications beforehand, as some others may have as well. Except an external 7A U-BEC and CA hinges on all control surfaces, I removed one of the elevator Bowden cable tubule since it was crooked, and stuck in a new one in such a way that the control wires did not crisscross anymore but meet in front of the servo. Because of this, the elevator linkage works a lot easier. On the wings, I replaced the linkage with carbon rods and thicker wire as well as ball links. And after the control horn of the RH aileron broke at my tenth flight, these were also replaced by quite sturdier ones. Another technical adjustment concerned merging the servo wires for an easier assembly on the flying field. On each wing panel one and a half Multiplex connectors are affixed and hence three entire sockets in the fuselage. This way, assembly on the flying field is much easier and faster.

One of the key improvements for me was the additional support of the motor mount right behind the motor, with “clamping” of the rear end shield. The distance from firewall to spinner tip is rather long with the Mustang and leaves plenty of room for vibrations. With the help of the additional support the powertrain now runs smoothly. With the original propeller the motor draws about 39 amperes. I fly my model with an APC-E 15x10 with a static current of about 30A or an APC-E 16x8 with about 28A but more thrust than the 15” propeller. I prefer the 16x8 since I care more about thrust and, because of this, the model is able to climb vertically really well without really being slower. Additionally to technical modifications, also some minor optical improvements such as self-made stickers, a different pilot, a painted cockpit interior with a reflector gun sight, exhaust marks etc. were included. I will continue to fly with my “old” model for a long time despite the new version 7. A while ago I attached a FlyCam with Velcro tape to the wing root and made an aerobatic flight. Here is the outcome of it, have fun watching it.

FMS P-51 Mustang with Flycam (3 min 50 sec)


Frank
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Nice work! Please explain the motor mount clamps. Looks interesting..
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Somewhere in the Black Forest
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It's not very complicated to do this mod, but it's a bit tricky as you have to let the complete drive unit mounted in place. Doing it this way ensures the best and most precise result as the "clamp" has to have a really tight fit around the motor and its mount. You start with the two cross members on top and bottom of the motor mount. I used 6mm balsa wood for this, onto which I glued a piece of thin plywood to prevent the sharp edges of the mount cutting into the soft wood. Of course you can use hard wood too but to achieve a good fit of the two balsa pieces in the fuselage, you have to cut them a little longer than the wideness (inside) of the fuselage itself and then cut and sand them to fit. This is a lot easier with a soft kind of wood like balsa is. With the plywood facing towards the motor mount in a position about 3mm behind its front end and as close to it as possible, glue the two cross members into the fuselage using thin CA. After the glue has cured, reinforce with medium CA. The next step is to make the vertical clamps. I made mine of 10x5mm pine. Drill the holes for the mounting screws according to the distance between the two balsa members so they can take self tapping screws for wood. Next hold them against the balsa pieces and the rear motor shield as close as possible and mark where the holes have to be drilled there. I know that's tricky, but it should work After you have drilled the holes into the cross members, harden them by letting thin CA glue seep inside the holes and let it dry. Repeat this step twice if neccessary. Now you can screw the two parts to the balsa pieces. Of course you could glue them too, but screwing them allows you to access the screws of the motor mount in case of maintenance or repair. Meanwhile I doubled the vertical pine parts with one piece of the same measurements (10x5mm) on each side which provides an even better result. I cut them so in length that they fit between the screws and glued them on. I've never had any issues with my mod and the Mustang is running really smooth

Frank
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Webmaister's Avatar
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Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kauz View Post
It's not very complicated to do this mod, but it's a bit tricky as you have to let the complete drive unit mounted in place. Doing it this way ensures the best and most precise result as the "clamp" has to have a really tight fit around the motor and its mount. You start with the two cross members on top and bottom of the motor mount. I used 6mm balsa wood for this, onto which I glued a piece of thin plywood to prevent the sharp edges of the mount cutting into the soft wood. Of course you can use hard wood too but to achieve a good fit of the two balsa pieces in the fuselage, you have to cut them a little longer than the wideness (inside) of the fuselage itself and then cut and sand them to fit. This is a lot easier with a soft kind of wood like balsa is. With the plywood facing towards the motor mount in a position about 3mm behind its front end and as close to it as possible, glue the two cross members into the fuselage using thin CA. After the glue has cured, reinforce with medium CA. The next step is to make the vertical clamps. I made mine of 10x5mm pine. Drill the holes for the mounting screws according to the distance between the two balsa members so they can take self tapping screws for wood. Next hold them against the balsa pieces and the rear motor shield as close as possible and mark where the holes have to be drilled there. I know that's tricky, but it should work After you have drilled the holes into the cross members, harden them by letting thin CA glue seep inside the holes and let it dry. Repeat this step twice if neccessary. Now you can screw the two parts to the balsa pieces. Of course you could glue them too, but screwing them allows you to access the screws of the motor mount in case of maintenance or repair. Meanwhile I doubled the vertical pine parts with one piece of the same measurements (10x5mm) on each side which provides an even better result. I cut them so in length that they fit between the screws and glued them on. I've never had any issues with my mod and the Mustang is running really smooth

Frank
Nice job. I run a 1300 watt motor and needed to do the same. My approach used soaking the firewall in Gorilla Glue and then installing two cross members in front of the firewall that span the width of the fuselage.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Nice job. I run a 1300 watt motor and needed to do the same. My approach used soaking the firewall in Gorilla Glue and then installing two cross members in front of the firewall that span the width of the fuselage.
I did something similar too. First I took CA and let it seep into the groove around the perimeter of the firewall and then I soaked it in Gorilla Glue too but due to the leverage having a big impact on the firewall in case of a nose- over, it was not a very satisfying solution for me.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:45 PM
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Frank,
great work as always. Awesome detail touches as well. Looked like you had a blast with that flight, and a couple of close calls with the top of your head the one pass where you went between you and the road sign, if that had been me I would had hit the sign great flying. You really motivaded me to get mine back up. My motor shaft was bent on mine so I'm replacing it with an Eflite power 46 bl 670 kv and running a Master Air Screw 13x8 prop along with a 60 amp switch gear ESC. I might wait to do some detail work this winter. Mines the v2 with good old Goofie the pilot. Again Great work as all ways.

Loyd
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