Analog servo? Can a receiver handle both digital and analog?

You can run an analog on the tail as long as the gyro supports analog ..

For $5 you could use a 9650 ...

and I have used both ..

Analog on cyclic and digital on the tail , if its bad ???????

if you want digital

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4kg_0_09s.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...6kg_0_07s.html

Any thoughts on this three axis flybarless unit? It's only $40.00, tho i don't know what the drawbacks are.
http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/CopterX-...duct_info.html

It's part of this package ($80). I'm still looking into how much it'll cost to purchase equivalent parts separately.
http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/p11761/C...duct_info.html

That's pretty much everything. I'm still putting together my must have list. But it may be good enough for a beginner and i'll have the helicopter up and running in two months instead of three.

I ordered the RX-701 receiver as a test for how well customs will treat packages from them, i'll have until that receiver arrives (1 month) to try putting together different combinations of electronics from other vendors. For now i'm going to look for CopterX reviews and if it's possible to put them in a VWIN heli. Provided the receiver doesn't get blocked at customs of course.


So to tally:

Copter X Electronics = $80 = 3500php
http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/p11761/C...duct_info.html

Pair that with the VWIN carbon fiber flybarless (3,200) . I'm stuck with VWIN because that and align are the only spareparts the LHS carries.

Electronics = 3500
Chasis = 3200
RX-701 = 1300
Battery = 950

TOTAL = 8,950php


How does that compare to the 450QS (8,800php)? That's pretty much the benchmark i'm comparing to right now.

CopterX sells pretty good stuff, for the price, except for their transmitters. But, realistically, you are comparing two sets of non-name generic electronics. It's anyone's guess. Every time I've tried to used no-name electronics of any kind, has turned into a disaster.

@Balr14
I checked the servos. They're the cheapest ones on the site. I'm skipping the package. I've got a feeling plastic gears in servos would shatter in a crash. Tail servos seem to be an exception tho, it seems they need to be made of plastic to increase responsiveness.


What's the recommended C for a 450 with a 3500-3800kv motor? I've been looking up 20-25c 2200mah packs, but i notice that the copter X kits only have 15c. I can probably buy two 15c packs instead of a single 25c, might be good enough for someone still practicing and can fly two batteries back to back to pile up the practice time?

15C is adequate for 450s running low headspeed and easy flying. But, I would want at least 25C for flybarless. I've never compared response speed between comparable servo models with plastic and metal gears, I just never thought of it. I usually look for the fastest digital metal gear servos I can find in my price range (usually under $25 per servo).

I've put together the heli chasis to check for missing parts and could use some advice.

What do you use to lock in screws in plastic? When i put in the screws, quite a few of them doesn't seem to lock. Since loctite will likely melt them, what am i supposed to use?

I'm ordering an entire screw set because there's one missing in the tail boom. It's the right number of screws, but the only screw left doesn't fit. How often does this happen?

How well is the main shaft supposed to fit in the shaft sleeve for the one way bearing? The videos show people just sliding it out of the shaft, but mine refuses to go in at all, when i tried forcing it, it's now stuck with no way to be taken out.

I've punched and burned a hole to the canopy to mount it, but the mounting spike seems to act as a hinge. Is there a risk of it going up and hitting the rotor blade? I 77also didn't find any rubber grommits in the kit, is it necessary?

I also wasn't sure how to go about punching the hole into the canopy without risking cracking. I basically heated an old rusted micro screwdriver and gradually worked my way up through the screwdriver set 'til it just barely fits over the spikes. Maybe i can use foam tape in place of the grommits to reinforce the hole?

If a screw is really loose in a plastic part you can put a small drop of CA in the hole and let it dry. If that doesnt work try a longer screw or a new plastic part.

The mainshaft-sleeve should just slide over the shaft. Either your sleeve is bend or there is some burr or flashing on your mainshaft that you can remove with a file.

Quickly heating it up in a flame might expand it a little so you can knock it off the shaft.

Burrs were the first that came to mind too, and cleaned it out with alcohol and silicon oil.

I don't suppose there's a site or a video on how to properly use superglue (That's CA right?), it's rather hard to handle and after repeated cliches of fingers getting stuck (haven't glued my head to he table yet, fortunately), i'm kinda worried about the screw getting stuck while i'm still screwing it in.

Will elmers glue work? It basically turns into rubber so it might be able to absorb shock and solidify to fill in the gaps and still have enough time to screw everything before the glue sets.

Originally Posted by jnmardister

they problem with buy a used heli (or anything really) is the hidden broken parts, it may seem to be fully operational, and may even fly but there may be some underliying issue that could cost you some time and moey to figure out i.e. bent feathering shaft, bent main shaft, broken anything really.

Plus 1 on this! Don't even ask me about the used 500 I bought from some douchbag on Ebay. I'm sure he knew about all the problems it had but as they say...buyer beware!

http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/vi...Position,1-8,8

How about this one? One month old, used 3 times. But he's apparently dropping it because he's switching to helis... so why can't he use it on a heli?

Electronics and tools arrived in the Philippines thursday last week, Friday it got set to "Pending Customs Inspection", and it hasn't changed since. AGH! The wait is killing me!