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Old Oct 01, 2012, 11:00 PM
The Engineer
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Now to the setting up of the FC and motors

I relocated the battery to be at the side.. Have not completed the paltform yet but I can start taking out one CF plate and lower the FC..
Look how flat it became compare to the earlier 'Pagoda Tower'! Yucks!


The FC.. Still have not figure out (ok I haven't read the manual entirely..) the pin to plug into and out to the receiver..


Here's the guide to set up the quad to fly in X and the motor directions and location.
http://www.kkmulticopter.com/downloa...er%20v.5.5.pdf

The motor location for #01, to #04..
found in http://rcexplorer.se/page14/kkguide/kkguide/quadx.html
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:12 PM
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I agree with sirbow. . I like the CF square tubing but have only had luck to limit damage by
1. plugging and glueing the end with a dowel
2. Using delrin clamp motor mounts (see attachment)
3. Padding the end with some EVA high density foam as a bumper like with the old Gaui
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Darn.. I think this should make into a prototype tested and quickly go on to Ver 3 using round tube. And I jus realise the round one are also not cross weaved CF. Damn.. description on HK is jus so vague..
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prodriverex View Post
Darn.. I think this should make into a prototype tested nd quickly go on to Ver 3 using round tube. And I jus realise the round one are also not cross weaved CF. Damn.. description on HK is jus so vague..
Just fly it. What the heck.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:26 PM
Stop me before I build again!
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Seeing the board installed I have a few thoughts.

1) that a lot of exposed voltage, wrap those exterior posts before you short something out.
2) packing the ESCs might lead to poor heat dissipation, possible overheating, and more power loss.
3) have you weighed the final product and compared it to comparable wire based ESC wiring?
4) the traces might be able to carry the current, but is there enough insulation between the layers?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:29 PM
The Engineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Seeing the board installed I have a few thoughts.

1) that a lot of exposed voltage, wrap those exterior posts before you short something out.
2) packing the ESCs might lead to poor heat dissipation, possible overheating, and more power loss.
3) have you weighed the final product and compared it to comparable wire based ESC wiring?
4) the traces might be able to carry the current, but is there enough insulation between the layers?
1. Yes I considered that too. Will sleeve in shrink wrap. The underside is already conformal coated. I have just removed the -ve 'pole' and will be replaced by Dean's Ultra with mod for anti spark. To bring the +ve to the edge of the board, I will lay a new track from the inside and bring it to the dean's pin and cover either with shrink tube or otherwise.

2. I am thinking should I drive a 5V motor for active cooling.. then again, my motors are 30A peak ea and these ESCs are 55A so there's a lot of buffer. I will monitor and see.

3. Unfortunately no. But I still have the chopped off cables and can do comparison. But I doubt it will be meaningful. i.e. the weight saved may not be a lot or worst. I just wan it to be cable clutter free. Plus, I can secure the ESC down without cable tie nor velcro, this is a sure way to secure it in place like mouting it down with four screws on standies.

4. Definitely yes. They are laid on 2mm acrylic sheet. I would prefer to draw my owm PCB pad next and have it fabricated. That will be lighter and will be more precise in connector location.

If only I can find a strong L-shape connector to mount the ESC side way and have the heatsink face out, that will be perfect.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:30 PM
The Engineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingRodent View Post
I agree with sirbow. . I like the CF square tubing but have only had luck to limit damage by
1. plugging and glueing the end with a dowel
2. Using delrin clamp motor mounts (see attachment)
3. Padding the end with some EVA high density foam as a bumper like with the old Gaui
Where did you get the delrin clamp mounts? Very nice..
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Hi brontide,

I have insulated the connectors..


I left one +ve socket unwrapped so that I can put on the Dean's connectors later and tap on that +ve to power the rest.

In actual fact, I can hook up battery packs on all 4 sides of the square baseplate to parallel endurance. Just have to make sure the packs are almost same voltages.

Here's the mod Deans to accommodate anti-spark. However, this is the battery side.

Really, nothing to mod except I just superglue them together and clamp it till dry with heat gun and then shrink wrap them after soldering the cross link and to the battery:


The other connector is the balancing connector wired to adapt Schulze charger. Not ready to wrap yet, waiting for a resistor to be added so that the charger will auto recognise the charge current for this pack.

Here's another view. I have pumped in hot glue into the hole where the shrink did not close all the way on the main connector.


The other male side of the Deans is really the mod job. Will show tomorrow when the resistors arrive and to be soldered on the Deans. So watch for it.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Seeing the board installed I have a few thoughts.

3) have you weighed the final product and compared it to comparable wire based ESC wiring?
Just on the ESC alone. I did the weighing.
The Pin Connector from Astro is 1.1gm. Socket is 1.4gm. Total is 2.5gm.
I will use pin all around with the ESC so that is 5.5gm

Wire for 90mm length with socket bullet is 3gm.
So ESC with pin and socket as a pair is still lighter.

The variable now is the PCB. Can it be 9.5gm?
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Too bad the resistors not arrive today because there was an appended order for more connectors for the balancer to fit with non Schulze charger..

But look what I did today!

She has got new sneakers!


Made from springy plumbing clearing wire or what ever you call it.. Its cheap and I found it as $2 shop for 5m!

Another view:
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:44 PM
Stop me before I build again!
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Looks more like electrical puller, but probably a "plumbing snake". I had considered music or piano wire which is often used for fabrication of landing gears on model planes.

One idea that I have, no idea if it will work, is to invert the motor and props and use music wire or your snake to create a combo landing gear and prop shield.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 07:30 PM
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That's an interesting idea!
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:21 AM
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woah.. haven't been updating for days.. The resistors came yesterday and only found time to do so today. Tried out and it was successful to prevent any sparks!

Ok herein revealing the mechanical method on the ESC side!
This is a modification over the pin connector side. What I did was simply use a plier and compress a pair of pin so that it sits shorter than usual, just a little like 3-5mm.
I'm not too worry if it is compressed too much and lose that spring effect because you still have the other parallel pin that will hold the whole set in place. But too much shorten you fear the contact is not perfect. This is about right for the difference to be seen:


So what happen is that the connectors on the battery side (socket) is aligned, not offset. But when it meet the pin side, the top tier will contact the pin side first where the arresting resistor is located. The resistor basically is soldered from the + side on top of the pin connector, and to the + side at the bottom and that continues to power the rest of the ESC +ve.

The resistor timing is determined to be 0.5s and the calculation was taken from http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/nospark.html

I am using a 56 Ohm 0.25W resistor.

Here's another picture from another angle.



Well this was not the original intention to plug in the battery this way for those who just caught up reading. I have decided to move the battery to the side and thus required a new connection point by the side. And what's more suitable to use the offset connector than the Deans? I do not know of any other connectors that you can push or pull the pins out of the housing socket!
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Ready to flash my KK 5.5e Plus FC board tonight.
Wow I have to pick up that skill again on software.. The last time I flashed was in Feb and never touch that again.. You know how that one installation thing that you did once and never have to look back again until you need to reinstall when system crash and you realised oh damn how to do that again and where's the drivers?

Ok so I need to flash my KK board to fly the X (the last was a +).
Googled and came out multircshop.com and there's so many firmware version that one can load but not sure which one I should. I read up on the XXController and I think that is more for upgraded MEMS. So I think I should fall back to Quad Controller v4_7_X.

Since i had the last KKPlus_Tool v124 and there had been no new update, I just ran off the existing version I had. I thought it was easy but damn, missing ocx file. Again I thought that was easy part because there was ready help about how to load those missing files! But more importantly, all the step by step only touch on 32bit Windows system and no wonder the instruction didn't work. I was pissed. Lucky i saw a title under their (multircshop) download "How to fix missing OCX file.pdf" and click that and open.

Woah.. immediately anti virus prompt popped up! 3 different viruses were discovered. Thanks to AVG, they were stopped and removed. And the PDF file remain open and what was included in the description is the 64bit part!

You have been warned, that pdf file may be infected.. so I copied and paste the instruction here on the 64bit machine to run the flashing.

Quote:
Steps to register the missing ocx file(s) needed for KK Plus Flashtool Step 1: Download the missing ocx file(s) from the webstore:
-www.multircshop.com, at left screen under the information section
-Unzip the files and follow step 2 to copy the file to the correct folder
-Some system need to register both the 2 files below:
-Comdlg32.ocx
-Mscomm32.ocx

Step 2: Copy the ocx file to the correct folder according to your OS:
-32 bit OS: C:\windows\system32
-64 bit OS: C:\windows\syswow64

Step 3: Run the Command Prompt as Administrator:
-Click Start button and type CMD to the search box
-Right click on the CMD program and select Run As Administrator
-Change to the correct folder of step 2
-Type: regsvr32 comdlg32.ocx
-You should see the confirmation message, if you see error, most likely you did not run the command prompt as administrator, redo step 3
I finally manage to get the missing file copied and registered into system.

I tried running the KK Update Tool v1.24 and it works.

And now I can continue following the lost video that first guided me on how to flash the KK board to the latest then in Feb 2012. The video is this:
KK Plus Flash Tool (4 min 2 sec)


But this thing call software is always an elusive animal. There must be thousand and one way to get her to work and when she works, you can never determine how she should do it! The instruction is never always the same.. thats what I mean.

So here's something I have to do differently from the video.

So you mange to get the software started. And yo have to chose the COM port.. now how the hell we know which port to chose? There's no use for me to chose one by one down the drop down list and test Open Port Connection! Because the correct Port won't show up even if you go to Device Manager to see which Port is available? So jump the instruciton abit, although it says do not plug in the USB yet to power the device.. Heck, if yo udon't plug in, you never know which Port that USB slot is. So, plug in that USB and see under the Device Manager, which new Port appear? Yeap, that's the Com port we need to connect to. Once that is done, no need to remove the USB. Just make sure the jumper to power on the MK-USB board is taken off and short them again to turn on the board. Then will the bootload version show up.

Ok done flashing with the X-config..
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 11:18 AM
The Engineer
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Another thing I did today was to make a 2nd set of anti-spark connector for the ESC PCB.
This set will be located opposite the first. Few reasons for me to do this.
1. Having both battery on either side of the quad keep things balanced.
2. If need be, we can change out the battery pack and hot plug new one in.
3. With in hand a few chargers around, we can charge the pack separately and the same current throughput yet, shortening the time required. Eg. Instead of charging a single 6900mAh 2P pack at say 0.5C, we can now do so at 3450mAh at 1C each, i.e if the charger max power is limited. Of course if you use a high power charger that will not be an issue.

4. The thing is, if I ever have a need to perform endurance flight, I might consider 4 connectors on all 4 sides and plug in 4packs! Yes, the weight might turn out to be a penalty but with the 4x capacity, its a trade off.

Here's the picture of today's work. Much better now with the soldering and more compact. In fact, if i can use the black loctite and port over the entire exposed area, it may even look like no component existed in between the pins!





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