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Old Dec 18, 2012, 06:15 AM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by Hircsailor View Post
.... but need to fix a problem with the sail wench first,.....
Maybe the sail wench is busy cooking...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hircsailor View Post
....the drum doesn't return to the same place when stick is returned to netural.......................
I had a problem with a winch doing this... the winch would either creep by itself or return to a slightly different spot each time, gradually moving to one end of the winch travel. Turned out the winch was faulty, I replaced it....
Detailed video showing the issue and also after winch replacement:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=8IJ7m22vvXE
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 02:51 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
494 Posts
Thank you for your input about the sail wench problem mrpenguin. Since I have to add another length of tubing under the foredeck so that it runs back to the cockpit for easier replacement of lines if needed I will try the correct loops of line around the drum first. If the problems still exist then I will replace the servo. But that will have to wait untill I get the kitchen island back from my wifes holiday cooking. Will let you know if servo was the problem or not.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 06:10 AM
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Joined Sep 2010
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My new set of A sails from rod carr 75 inches tall with square main not much wind here

Hircsailor how is the t50 build coming along any more photos
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 03:38 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
494 Posts
Still trying to fix problem with sail winch before the deck is attached to the hull. Called Hitec today and their rep. said the problem is with the radio and that I wouldn't have any trouble if I used a Hitec radio, so much for customer service. Will Lesh is sending me more 90lb spectra so that I can replace the drum lines. I can't say enough about how helpful Will is about any problems with his boats an his willness to send replacement pieces wwithout cost.
Wife has taken over the kitchen island(my work area) for holiday cooking so I have a real small space to work in. But I did manage to build the mast and rigid vane along with the shords.The T50 build has come to a stand still untill I correct the winch problem as I don't want to install the deck untill that is fixed. Its much easier to work on the winch without the deck on. Looking forward to Jan.1 so that I can start working on the boat again. Things are backing up here as I just received the T37 that I brought on ebay so I have to get moving on building them. Since there have been several T37 builds on the thread I won't tie up space talking about mine. Well maybe about how the deck will be planked.
foam crusher have you received your boat from Tippecanoe yet.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 12:09 AM
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Joined Aug 2006
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Please post your T37 build! Pictures that are more detailed than the ones I took during my build would be great to have here.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 01:56 AM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
494 Posts
I played around with the winch and believe that I have it fixed. While the drum doesn't always return to the same postion when the stick in centered the end points have been within 1 or 2 degrees everytime and that is all that I can about. Making sure that the sails are the same every time that they are open or closed. Just waitiing for the 90lb spectra to redo the drum and then I can attach the deck and finish the rigging.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 10:58 AM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,078 Posts
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Originally Posted by Hircsailor View Post
FoamCrusher have you received your boat from Tippecanoe yet.
No, not yet. Since this is probably his busiest time of the year for his stock kits, I think its logical that Christmas orders took precedence over my custom low profit order.

I think I will call him on Monday. The holiday rush should be over by then.

When I ordered it I asked that the sails as well as the hull and fin/ballast be US1M legal, so that may be the hang up. If that is the issue, then I will ask him to delete the mast, sails and bulb. I will use a spare A rig I have hanging on the wall and make my own ballast since I am getting pretty good at that and now have all the equipment to make the plugs/molds.

After doing some studying, and looking at the other projects I have lined up, I think I will only build the classic version rather than trying to do the additional high tech one as well. The original idea was to have a classic looking version and a full race version, but not I think I can do both in one without it being too heavy. Before I assemble it I will trace the hull parts in case I ever want to make a Kevlar version. (Found out that Kevlar will be lighter and have better impact resistance than the CF - not as stiff, but that is a secondary consideration)

Rather than a fully planked deck, I will make the planking out of veneer and clear coat the entire boat after one layer of 0.5 oz glass. The mast will be deck stepped to give more room for the servo arms below deck (and that is what my spare rig is). Still not sure yet about making a fixed or removable keel fin )

I sure would like to get started. The rebuild/paint of one of my previous US1M's and repaint of my Seawind should be done within a week or two so the bench will be open.

FC
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 05:57 PM
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Fokker Ace, I have quite a few pics of my T37 build, is there anything in particular you are looking for?
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Joined Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by Hot Tuna View Post
Fokker Ace, I have quite a few pics of my T37 build, is there anything in particular you are looking for?
I think anything additional would be great for the would-be builders out there!

Maybe if you made any modifications on your boat or added the racing upgrade, I don't think we have any good photos of the racing upgrades.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 02:36 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
494 Posts
I was looking at the MSW site that lhurt recomanded and found another way to form the deck side planks that cover the deck hull seam.
He took a bulding board taped a sheet pf paper on it and traced the hull outline, covered that with plastic wrap then nailed small wire brads along the outline. After steaming the planks he set the planks on the board and the placed the hull down on top of that and added weights to the bottom to keep everything flat on the board as the planks dried. That way the planks match the hull outline and he needed fewer pins to hold plank as the epoxy set up. He didn't say anthing about the deck being on the hull, but I would think that this would have to be done without the deck attached to the hull yet as you would need brads on the inside of the plank as well to get the curve needed. I plan on trying this on the new T37 and leave the side planks on the board untill I epoxy the deck and deck together then lay the hull over the epoxy coated planks to glue them to the hull. It seems to be a lot less messy and easier than the way I did it before.
I like to search the other sites as you never know what you might learn from them. I also read how one modler built his deck upside down on a board using ca then a light coat of epoxy. After the deck was dry he put the hull on the deck planks and cut the deck out and attached it to the hull. No messy glueing of one plank at time on the hull. I also plan on using this way or something like this to do the deck on T37.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 11:18 PM
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Another way to do the deck is to curve the planks to match the shape of the deck instead of running them parallel. This takes a bit more work, but looks nice too. All in all, I was quite happy with how it turned out. I do pay a weight penalty with two decks, but I need to refine my sailing skills a lot before it will matter a whole lot. I can post details of how I did this if anyone is interested.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 11:45 PM
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Attached are some pictures of the basis racing upgrade pieces. I wish that I had read all the upgrade directions and knew that the jib and shroud attach points were different from the standard kit. I placed all my screw eyes in the wrong place and ended up with holes to patch after I moved them. I added adjustments with bowsies instead of the sold line attachments.
I can add more pictures if someone needs any details.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 01:50 AM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
494 Posts
Hot Tuna I just love your deck. It would really be helpful to us if you could post the details on how you planked your deck. On my first T37 I just ran the planks along the centerline, it looks good but not as nice as yours. Do you have to steam each piece of veneer before you glue it in place on the deck. I also like your hatch covers could you also post some informantion on how you made them.
I have been thinking of adding 2 closed hooks on the underside of the deck so that the jib sheet would come up thru the deck instead of runing along the side, sort of like I will be doing on the T50. On the T50 the jib sheet comes off the winch line toward the aft then pivots thru a hook to run forward thru another hook before exiting up thru the deck to the jib boom. You need the second hook so that the sheet clears the keel bolts and the mast and I have been toying with the idea of doing the same thing on the T37. I will have to get the T37x and look at how much line travel that I have to play with inside the hull and where I might have to put the hooks at. I'm not to sure how that might work with the racing mod set up. I plan on building this T37 with the racing mods with a vane gooseneck, the jib attachment point and with line adjustments from the start.
Since I don't believe that there are any other T37s in Honolulu to race I am not to worried about the added weight. I just want a good looking boat for people to see. I already get complements on the T37x when I take it out, the bystanders seem to like the looks of a wooden boat better then the fiberglass boats.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 07:07 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,078 Posts
Hircsailor:

For the T37X you might consider using the same single arm sheeting system many of the US1M's use. The attached jpeg capture is from page 58 of the US1M Construction Guide on the AMYA site, available here :http://www.theamya.org/boats/us1m/us1mcons.php

I prefer it over the double arm system (capture from the same source attached) for light air venues since there is less friction on the sheets so the booms swing out more freely in the slightest puff. The fitting sold by Long Beach RC on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/221014653689...84.m1497.l2649 works great for the sheet exit/turn around.

FC
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Hircsailor,
Note that my deck is made from planks approximately 3mm X 6mm, not veneer. Hence there is quite a weight penalty. I have not weighed the boat so I don’t know how much. I have never done anything like this before so I am probably not the person to ask about the best way to do this. I did some reading on the modeling sites and this is the process I came up with. I took it on as a learning experience for a later project. Maybe somebody will chime in on a better way to do it. I did sand it thinner after it was complete, but it is still a lot more deck than is needed for the structure. The light color is cedar; the dark is Peruvian walnut, and bass wood for the “caulk”.
The first step is to trace the deck and mark all the openings and attach points. This will be very good to have after you cover everything up. Next, I made a protective cover for the hull so I didn’t ding up the hull while I was working on the deck. The box the kit came in works well. I added a support under the bow later to keep it from rocking.
The next step was to put a first plank along the shear. Leave this a little proud of the side of the boat and sand it flush after all is done. I covered the side seam with another piece later on to give it a nice finish.
After both sides were done, I placed the king plank along the center line, cut the ends off at the stern, and added the last piece across the stern. I am covering up the hatch openings as I go and will come back later to cut them out. This allows me to retain the curves and match the wood across the hatches.
Unfortunately, I lost my pictures of the detail planking. It is basically quite simple, but tedious. I worked from the shear toward the center line. I cut/shaped the angle at the bow end of a plank to fit it against the king plank. I then used CA glue to place the plank along the curve working toward the stern. The plank is still too long at this point and will be cut to fit when I get to the stern. I quickly ran into a problem with holding the plank snug to the adjacent plank while the glue was drying. There is quite a spring to a plank this size, but it is workable. My solution was to cut a whole lot of different lengths of pieces of popsicle sticks that I used to wedge the curved plank against the king plank while the CA dried. This worked great. I got to the point where I would glue in the front half of the strip, let it dry, and then cut the back length to fit before gluing in the remainder. The next time I will leave the piece off across the stern and let the pieces hang over for trimming later instead of trying to cut them to fit as I go. Elmer’s wood glue would take forever and the thicker CA was wonderful, I had never used it before.
Things got a little sporty as I reached the last few planks in the middle. I decided to build the main hatch in place. I cut the hatch boards to length thinking I could clean up the edges later when I framed in the hatch. I did not glue the outer hatch plank to the adjacent board so I wouldn’t have to cut it later. In the pic below, I just have the last plank to go. With the left and right side cut roughly to length, and loose, I cut the king plank to length, pulled that and the right side out leaving the four small pieces to fit front and rear beside the king plank. This was a LOT easier than trying to whittle one for each side and wedge it in. The last piece on the hatch sides was easy, I made it too wide, sanded it flush and then glued both sides to the piece of king plank I cut out earlier. I just planked right over the top of the rudder hatch and will cut that out later.
I’m not sure how veneer would work. I think the next time I’ll use a balsa wood sub deck and 2mm X 6mm planks. I'll try and post some details of the hatches later.
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