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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:20 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
Will takeand post some new pictures when wife gets back in town with the camera.
The T50 fin is 18 inches long with a bulb that is about 2 inches wide, so the bottom of the bulb is appox. 20 inches from the bottom of the hull.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:00 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
Here are some new pictures of my T50 build. The hull planking is finally sanded smooth and given a clear coat of West epoxy to seal it along with the keel fin and rudder. next up is to take the hull down to the pool to check for leaks then mounting the mast, keel, and rudder posts thru the hull. Since I'm not a great builder I am taking my time building it.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:55 PM
Fokker Ace's Avatar
Joined Aug 2006
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Looks good, and looks like you have water out the back door to test it in.

You need a small sander like the Black and Decker Mouse to use on that epoxy. But your way is good for the arms.

Oh, I too always sand while not wearing pants!
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:17 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
For working on the boat with epoxy or sanding I wear an old pair of short shorts, It's easier to take a shower than wash clothes full of sawdust. I have to be careful as I have slipped of couple of times and sanded my leg once or twice.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:55 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
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A tip for smoothing out the epoxy.
Since sandpaper tends to load up quickly - and especially if you are trying to smooth while the epoxy is still "green", try the following...... get an old pane of ordinary household glass. Put in a cardboard box and smack with a hammer. Pick out the pieces with the broken edge close to what you need - either smooth or curved, and holding the glass at an angle of about 70 - 80 degrees to the surface, drag the sharp edge of glass toward you, maintaining the steep angle. The very sharp edge of the broken glass cuts the epoxy like a metal scraper. If epoxy is still "green" you can get shavings that will curl up as it comes off. If it has started to hard-cure, it will still be able to be scraped flat and you don't get all the sawdust. May want to start on a flat piece, like underside of the deck to practice, but it is amazing at how smooth a finish you can get. Once scraped, it will leave a frosted white look, but any low spots will still be somewhat glossy, so you can see where added fill is needed. The best part is if it's a big piece and starts to get dull, just hit it again with hammer for another new, sharp edge. No need to resharpen like a metal scraper. Just throw away the old, dull-edged glass and grab another. Visit a local glass shop and ask them to pick up shards from their dump bin.

I used this on my big boats for fairing the hull bottoms, and use on virtually all of my woodworking projects prior to final light sand and varnish.

Amazing how fast you will find it works. PS - watch for cuts to hand. Gloves or tape the edge you are holding. Don't drag sideways, always "pull" toward you to maintain a even cut.

Dick
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:29 AM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
Dick L thanks for the tip about using pieces of glass to smooth out the epoxy. You are so right about how epoxy gums up sandpaper even the coarse grades. I'm not sure if that will work on cured epoxy but will try it out when I get ready to varnish the deck and hull. I have used a single edge razor blade like that for small areas before and it works great.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 03:59 AM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
Took the T50 hull down to the pool to check for any leaks and after 1/2 hour had some dampness along the bottom seams with acouple of drops of water a little farther up the side in the same area. I believe that the water drops are from a pin hole where I pinned the side plank to the bulkhead before epoxying. And the dampness from where the bottom planks meet. I guess that I didn't use enough epoxy there. I am sure that any leaks would be sealed when I apply the marine varnish finish coats, but just to play it safe I am going to apply a thin coat of prethicken coat of epoxy to the inside of the hull in that area.
After that I need to locate and mount the thru hull keelfin and rudder posts. Like I have said I am taking my time building the T50 attempting to do a good job of it. After all I have my T37 and several other boats that I can sail on Thursadys so there is no rush to finish it.
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 02:53 PM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
Once again Dick L thanks for the tip on smoothing out the epoxy. I used it on the hull, deck, keelfin and rudder but used a single edge razor blade instead of pirces of glass. Only used two razor blades for all that smoothing and it took me less then two hours to do it. Like you said the epoxy came off in strips and no sanding dust blowing around, and the pieces are really smooth to the touch. The pieces are ready for final sanding before varnishing.
Like I said in my eairlier post when I put the hull into the pool to check for leaks I found some damp spots so Iputt a thin coat of the prethicken epoxy in the area and now waiting for that to cure before checking for leaks again. I will have to wait until Monday to do that as it is the weekend and the pool will have a lot of kids in it.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hircsailor View Post
Once again Dick L thanks for the tip on smoothing out the epoxy. I used it on the hull, deck, keelfin and rudder but used a single edge razor blade instead of pirces of glass. Only used two razor blades for all that smoothing and it took me less then two hours to do it. Like you said the epoxy came off in strips and no sanding dust blowing around, and the pieces are really smooth to the touch.
Glad it worked out for you. Was a tip I picked up from the WEST System (epoxy) guys when living back home in Michigan - and made the in-between work (epoxy to varnish steps) so much faster and quicker (and cleaner). The reason I suggest glass, is that as it breaks into random shapes - there always seems to be some with a curved edge. Using this (even if only close to radius needed), prevents any flat spots that a straight edge blade (razor or scraper) might cause. For flat decks, or keel fins with minimal curve - flat is fine. When you try to do a rounded hull, the broken curved edge from glass works much better.

Thanks for posting your response on how well scraping works for smoothing epoxy.

Dick
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:25 PM
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t5o tri have made a couple of changes to kit have put some carbon fibre in some stress points,and also will glue 1mm marine ply on deck with some black deck patch .the rig is also different from standard kit also the sails too.My dad is taking over for a bit and he is going to put a light stain over the hulls with a marine varnish over it maybe black paint around the gunnel line i have a operation tomorrow so hopefully i will be able to finish by christmass
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:30 PM
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couple more photos
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:30 PM
Fokker Ace's Avatar
Joined Aug 2006
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Best of luck to you and keep us posted. Your boat looks fast as hell just sitting there! Can't wait to see when you get it in the water.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:35 PM
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thanks fokker ace ,will keep the photos coming when i get chance will post video too
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:18 AM
Kimo
United States, HI, Honolulu
Joined Jun 2011
496 Posts
darynxbcoupe good luck on your operation tomorrow. Your tri50 is looking good and looks like it would fly across the water.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 04:32 AM
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Joined Sep 2010
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thanks Hircsailor my dad has coated one hull with couple coats looking good he will get some wet and dry on it and couple more tomorrow maybe should have some pics early next week
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