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Old Oct 22, 2012, 02:34 AM
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United States, FL, North Port
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Thanks john!

I know the v2 would be much easier to model gear wise, i may even do a simpler solid fork the that has the correct profile of the v3, w/o the complexity. It really comes down to the cost of the gear.

The gear doors im sure will be a pain, they almost always are! I plan to use an electric linear actuator for the nose gear. I can get custom gear ratios and strokes to fit my needs.

The CAD tire was just for the drawing purposes to check fit and clearance. In reality, the actual tire to be used will be a 6" inflatable unit from dubro. I will probably end up 3d printed a detail cover for the hub (what little detail there is). The dubro tire is a little undersize, but finding a 7" tire proved difficult on this side of the pond.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 02:44 AM
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Colchester UK
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Thomas

I attach the best side view I have of both V2 and V3 nose legs in case they are of use to you.

John
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 02:55 AM
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Colchester UK
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Thomas

I used the 6 " dubro solid wheel as did Heiner and Ralph. They are lighter than the inflated ones and less to worry about! Incidentally they show very little wear.

One thing you will find is that with the wheel so large that when it is lowered it will steer the plane in the air, one of the reasons why we delay lowering it till the last minute.

The retract units I use on all my larger planes including the Horten is the excellent Behotec C50 units. They have worked without any issues apart from the first 2 flights. I found that the strain of landing bent the brass cross pin that locks the retracts allowing the cylinder to be slightly distorted allowing air to leak slightly. It only happens during taxiing and I got round this by fitting a Jettronic electronic valve that empties the air from downstream of the valve after a short period. They are brilliant and solve leaking cylinders.

Incidentally I am in the process of converting one set of these retracts to electric. The 4 wheel bogies on the Arado 555 are very heavy and I cannot raise them in flight on pneumatic.

John
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 11:31 AM
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John,
Seems like my assumptions led to a good choice in nose wheel tires! I am assuming i am going to have to come up with some sort of centering mechanism for the nose wheel so when it retracts, it actually goes between the drag brace like it should.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for those 2 pictures, i have not seen either of them before.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:23 PM
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Colchester UK
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Thomas

I have a reasonable clearance between the wheel and the brace and I have found that it does not require big steering angles to turn the plane. I do not therefore have anything special to stop the wheel moving while retracted. The steering is via an arm on the oleo and the servo is also attached to the retract trunnion.

You could have the steering channel switched so that it is off when the retract switch is moved.

I have plenty more photos if you pm me your address I can send a disc with them on.

John
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:20 PM
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John,
Ill send you my address later this evening, more photos would be fantastic!

I though of having my steering serci directly attached to the steering trunion. The only reason i dont, is i didnt was it retracting into the cockpit area, then again, it might not anyways. I will have to do some measurements in the plans to see when i get home.

The way it is done now, the servo is mounted at the very front of th nose and as the gear retracts, the steering lines go slack, which would probably let the nose wheel flop around however it likes
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 04:28 AM
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Colchester UK
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Thomas

Dont forget you will need nose weight. In mine I needed about 1 KG even though the engines were well forward and the tanks were on cg. I have a solid balsa nose and had to cut quite a bit away to fit the lead in. If you look at the full size it had loads of weight in the nose.

If you have the nose wheel with steering lines I fear you will have problems. Direct steering is definitely the best option. If you look at my model you will see that the whole of the centre section is open space that allows plenty of room for the servo and retract arrangement. In the design the main spar bridges this space on top and bottom.

John
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:55 AM
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United States, FL, North Port
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I'm home!

center section trailing edge finished. Leading edge installed on the center section, Bottom half of the right wing leading edge is shaped. The entire center section is ready for final sanding. Plans are to have everything ready for glassing this weekend.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Outer wing panels ready to be glassed! I'll probably use 2oz on the bottom and 2 layers of 3/4oz on top just for some extra strength..

Center section is 95% complete. The bottom is ready for final sanding, the top is ready for final sanding, just gotta finish a bit of work around the inlets, then glass some balsa/ply sheets so I can block off the openings for the inlet and outlet... Then the center section will get glassed...

Sooo, should be completely glassed by the weekend!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:42 AM
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upland CA
Joined Dec 2004
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Cool
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:02 PM
right between the batteries
Justo23's Avatar
Farmington UT
Joined Jun 2010
143 Posts
This build, and the plane itself are SO FREAKING COOL! lol Great job so far, keep up the good work!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:22 PM
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Progress since I have gotten back home...

Bottom and top are all sanded to shape and the center section TE was completed. I also finished up the leading edge to inlet transition's.





So whats next? GLASSING! 1 month 12 days from Tree to the beginning of glassing. I like building "just" wings like this!

Instead of using 3/4oz glass, I wanted a bit more strength and ding resistance as the very soft/lightweight wing sheeting has already been cracked in a few places on the top. So I used some 2oz glass cloth. This also gives me the added piece of mind due to the balsa wing spars (I'm kind of wishing I would of put a strip of Carbon Fiber on the spars, to late now!).

First the bottom outer wing panels: (notice how one outer wing panel is about 2/3 the length of the F-14's fuselage mold!)




Then the bottom center section. All 1 piece of glass, not easy, but it worked!:


Also not pictured, I glassed a piece of 1/32" ply and 1/8" balsa. These will be used to cap the inlet/outlet holes in prep for molding. Also, the 6oz glass i needed for the mold arrived, and the Expensive glass for the Flying center section arrived as well. Also got the 6s 5000mah lipo's for the EDF units..

Tomorrow, i'll trim and flip everything over. The elevons on the wings will get glassed tomorrow, as I'm not going to glass the top of the wing till the elevons are removed as I still need to make up the hinge gap covers and install them. Most likely, the top center section and outer wing panels will get glassed saturday night or sunday afternoon.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:22 PM
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Here is a couple days of work culminated into this post..

Cut free the elevons from the wing panels.


Then I trimmed the LE of each elevon to there triangular shape:



Then I installed the gap seals for the elevon hinge lines and glassed the top surface of the outer wing panels:


Then the glassed piece of 1/32" ply was cut to shape and glued to the exhaust exit bulkheads:


Then the glass cloth for the center section was cut. This was done in four pieces. The first piece did the aft "triangle" portion of the center section, then 2 pieces where cut for the indentation of the exhaust, and the last did everything else:


Then I glassed it and placed the peel ply on:


I also received the stuff for the power system, so I started assembling and dynamically balancing those. I've still got the balancing to do, but they are close to being ready for install:


I also carved a pumpkin for Halloween this afternoon for my son:
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 03:07 PM
Current project: Electrolyte
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United States, OH, Dayton
Joined Apr 2004
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Awesome GeeBee pumpkin! Here is my most recent airplane pumpkin from a few years ago . It shows a true addiction when airplanes invade a pumpkin carving...lol
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 03:53 PM
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United States, FL, North Port
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Man that looks awesome! You are right, a true addiction! After this, i am done with starting new projects until i finish the geebee and get an F14 molded. Once that happens (or i lose a model) ill probably build either a Do335 or a He219, if i can find some good 3-views i may do an Ar-234 instead.
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