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Old Mar 02, 2013, 08:39 PM
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United States, FL, North Port
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Yea this nose strut should work better. Im not comfortable putting a 4 1/2" tire in it though, that would only put about 1/8" of clearance between the tire and strut. I think a 4" tire is gonna have to work.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 09:20 AM
I don't like your altitude
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Joined Sep 2011
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That flite metal is very nice!I've got to have a go with it at some point.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 09:22 AM
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Yup, it looks fantastic, its a shame to paint over it, but oh well!
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:39 AM
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7.5 degree is ok!

Heiner
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Alrighty! I trimmed the strut 1", which should put it right around 8* with the use of a 4" tire.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Color anyone?

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Old Mar 03, 2013, 02:51 PM
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United States, NC, Raleigh
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by invertmast View Post
Yup, it looks fantastic, its a shame to paint over it, but oh well!
Hi, just been lurking and admiring the skillz. Beautiful work! The flite metal looks amazing. Can you explain why you then paint over it? Sorry if it's a newb question.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Hi, just been lurking and admiring the skillz. Beautiful work! The flite metal looks amazing. Can you explain why you then paint over it? Sorry if it's a newb question.
Its all in the name of scale. IMO for a scale model you need layers, especially if you plan to do any weathering to the model. Since i plan to so some moderate weathering to simulate combat use, i had the option of either painting the metal parts of the plane silver, or doing flite-metal. Flite metal was the answer for me, as it was easier than taping off all those areas.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 08:34 PM
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today, i got to painting!

First up was doing the interior RLM colors for the gear doors and wheel wells. Then the RLM-76 light blue was spraying on the bottom of the center section and outer surface of the gear doors.. No picture of this though..

Then was the green base coat (RLM-81) on the top:



Then the outer wing panels were put on, and the brown camo (RLM-82) was sprayed:



Then came time for the fun stuff.. WINTER CAMO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First i took my i-phone in one hand and the airbrush in the other and started copying the separation line between the green and white. then started filling in the white area's. Since WWII luftwaffe winter camo was field applied and normally was made up of whatever white color they could get ahold of and sometimes applied with a mop, rag, brush, paint gun, broom... whatever they had on hand, I purposely tried not to completely cover the RLM- 81/82 base camo..



Then i just continued on with the outline and filling in the gaps, until I got to the point where all the base winter camo was applied.






I'll have to make up the paint masks for the insignia's this week and then plan to spray those on Saturday, then commence with the weathering; some of it (LE chipped) has already been started.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:03 PM
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upland CA
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nice I like it..not to nit pic but you should have put the crosses on then added the winter white around them..would have looked more Field applied..But I still love it
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:13 PM
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nice I like it..not to nit pic but you should have put the crosses on then added the winter white around them..would have looked more Field applied..But I still love it
Yea i realized that about an hour ago... Oh well! Ive got ideas for the crosses anyways...
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 06:47 AM
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I can't wait to see what it looks like when you clean the salt from under the paint.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 04:51 PM
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white lake michigan
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I was reading a thread a while back on another forum where a guy was using the salt method on a Jap zero amazing work he did.He did it with every layer it seemed through the insignia and all. I was wondering why the green looked like it went on with run's What do you do just splash where you want the salt to lay with water. Gotta love the winter camo. I would like to try this some day
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 05:14 PM
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I was reading a thread a while back on another forum where a guy was using the salt method on a Jap zero amazing work he did.He did it with every layer it seemed through the insignia and all. I was wondering why the green looked like it went on with run's What do you do just splash where you want the salt to lay with water. Gotta love the winter camo. I would like to try this some day
My method is something i came up with on my own when using warbird colors.

I take about 2oz of water and put 2 full pumps of windex in it.

Then i take Sea Salt and grind it into a bowl. An acid brush is dipped in the water mix and ten into the salt and either dabbed (leading edges) or drug across the surface in the direction of the airflow. Depending on how much salt you load onto the brush dictates how much chipping is around.

Another method that is more random, is to do the brush water along the leading edges or any protrusion ( gun bumps, blisters, canopy/windscreen frame) and the literally throw salt at the model. This is the more random approach, but doesnt yield the exact look i go for allot of times, so i normally use a combination of the two.

The windex does some funky stuff to the WBC, that you can see as a change in its color shine. I like this bc it weakens the bond enough to where the paint will weather more in those areas like the prep work wasnt very good, or a mechanic spilled something and weakened the paint.

I dont bother trying to get the surface smooth either, i do enough body work to get rid of the fiberglass weave look and thats it. Any irregularities in the surfaces stay (except un-intentional holes).
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 09:01 PM
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white lake michigan
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Thanks for the tips.UC
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