Heiner,
Its been a blessing having yourself and John involved with this project as it has helped a bunch for all these little things you would never think would be an issue...

I can't remember if it was you or john who said they had a few friends interested in the hortons, but if it was, please pass the word on.

Thomas

PM me lets talk

Air speed is about right, though as you said, running up the power will enable you to pull it down after a much more
confident takeoff run. I kept waiting and waiting knowing there had to be a barbed wire fence out there on the far end...

Then after your camera person got a confirmation it lifted off I can imagine it was at the very limit of your field. Goat
grass at this time of year is a challenge for EDF's.

Excellent initial flight. Looking forward to seeing you increase to pair of 120mm and shorten rear ducting...
volume @ velocity = smiles.

No 120mm ones for us.. The jetfan 90's should be plenty, as they will provide 23lbs of thrust and an efflux velocity of 180ish mph i believe.


The trim drag on this thing was pretty high. The elevons were deflected up about 3/4" and remember these are friese hinged elevons so when they are constantly deflected up like that, the LE of te elevon is poking out of the bottom of the wing causing drag. Seeing and realizing this, i bet it would fly fine on 6s by eliminating some nose weight to reduce the trim drag and getting the nose gear issues sorted.

But initial performance would be lacking, so its still going to get some jetfan's

you should be in the 230-240mph eflux range with 2.75" dia tail pipes

WOW guys. That's impressive.

It really takes a lot of discipline to start a projekt like this and get to successful flight.

Congratulations.

Steve

Originally Posted by corsair nut

you should be in the 230-240mph eflux range with 2.75" dia tail pipes

Is that the optimum tail pipe outlet for the jetfan?

I believe the tailpipe diameter i had on the test flight were either 3" or 3 1/8"..

I got this from Rainer.

Hi Mark,

Outlet could be done from 68mm to 78mm.
But 75-76mm ist the best. Under 72 the Amps go up.

BR ,Rainer

Sweet!


Now... What causes an inrunner to go from fairly smooth and easy to spin (rotor will continue spinning for a few seconds if spun by hand), to being tight and doesnt spin hardly at all if spun by hand?

I pulled the edf units out today and both motors are pretty tight (hard to spin).

MORE PROGRESS! But wait... how can you progress on something that is done... Easy!

YOU START ANOTHER ONE! lol

Tom's center section is officially started:

I applied the mold release agent, then left to flash off for the allotted time. After that, the molds flanges were taped off to keep the paint off of them, then the primer was applied to the mold surfaces:



That is all for Tom's center section. The paint needs to dry for abit and then the layup schedule will be put in..

For myself, I did some of the work retrofitting the DLE-55RA to the FW-190, I hope to have this done by the end of the week and its shipping crate built so it can begin its journey to its new home starting next week.

For my Horton, I pulled it out of the trailer to do some inspecting to it..

One of the inner flap servo's is burnt out so i will need to replace that, and other than some grass and dirt stains, the outer wing panels suffered no damage.

The center section is structurally un-damaged and again, other than grass and dirt stains and gear door damage, the center section is fine. The ESC mystery remains a mystery. Normally anytime i've seen an ESC fail and catch fire its capacitors were popped, these are still fine, but all the mosfets are shot. so much so, the two boards have separated themselves. I"m pretty sure the motor must of shorted out and caused the ESC failure, i plan to take the motor to work tomorrow and do some work on it to see what's up internally.

ESC picture:


And after cleaning some melted rubber, plastic, solder and random other ESC bits, the inner fiberglass layer shows no sign of damage, just discoloration and there is no loss of strength or stiffness in the area.



Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning out the black soot mess and getting rid of the smell?

OH yea.. i forgot this picture:




Thats how much elevon trim was needed for level flight, absolutely every bit I had which is about 3/4"

probably got really hot and demagged the motor, this will also fry the esc which is probably what happened. the motor took the esc out.

Originally Posted by invertmast

Sweet!


Now... What causes an inrunner to go from fairly smooth and easy to spin (rotor will continue spinning for a few seconds if spun by hand), to being tight and doesnt spin hardly at all if spun by hand?

I pulled the edf units out today and both motors are pretty tight (hard to spin).

Sounds about right, good thing it was only about $100 worth of junk. Lol

Originally Posted by invertmast

OH yea.. i forgot this picture:
Thats how much elevon trim was needed for level flight, absolutely every bit I had which is about 3/4"

I had the same problem with my p-1111. It needed up trim to keep the nose up. Still think mine was nose heavy. My airfoil is the MH-60 and it should have had plenty of reflex built in. It could be that your airfoil needed reflex.
I had roll set at 70% and pitch at 45%. I had a hard time turning the plane with the elevons and used mostly the rudder. What setup did you use?

There is reflex in the airfoil.

Go back and read the thread, the answers are in it