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Old Nov 18, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Lesson Learned ..... next weekend will be better.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 04:56 PM
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some pictures befor epoxy and cotton flox went to 250 degrees
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Oh so close! stupid me
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 02:52 AM
I don't like your altitude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invertmast View Post
Oh so close! stupid me
Minor setback for a builder of your calibre
Btw,thanks for the parting board tutorial,clearest guide I've seen.
Regards Stuart
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 10:07 AM
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FANTASTIC plug work.

Around 20 years ago that happened to us once. Almost cost a Hawker Typhoon wing. Something one always considers once it happens.

For me personally, I think the plug work is where the talent is. It's the original.


Steve
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Thanks steve,
This plus isnt as nice as i would have liked it. There are a few areas that have some texture in the paint, but since it was a wood skinned aircraft, i left it as is. To me it looks like some wood grain showing through. They are shallow enough though that they are easily filled in during the final paint, heck they may just barely even transfer to the final parts. Time will tell!

Pva and the final coat of surface resin are applied. Ill start filling in corners and applying glass in about 1/2 hour
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 07:35 PM
BVM Viper Fever
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Its been pretty quiet for the last few hours....Invertmast and thtaco must be must laying down fiberglass on a successful gelcoat!!!!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 08:20 PM
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some pictures of mold work

invertmast woked on the mold for 13 hours straight. i started helping after work at around 2:00 finished at around 8:00
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 08:22 PM
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Top is molded. Tomorrow we will pop the partings planes around the inlets off and mold those, so the top will be completely molded by the end of the weekend. Next weekend, we will be doing the bottom. So by Dec. 1 we will have the center section completely molded.

Once completely molded, the mold will sit for 7 days to fully cure and while that happens, I will begin working on the internal structure "masters" so we can easily copy-cut multiples of the same parts.

Beginning of the molding process, the first layer of white surface resin has been applied:


13 hours of work later, The top is nearly done (just the inlets left).

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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:11 PM
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very nice.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:14 PM
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I have a question. On your glass reinforcement, the glass does not follow the rear of the jet engine housing down to the "fuse" section as shown in your surface coat.. Did you guys glass the section separately, then cover over it? Or are going to cut it out??

Also, why did you guys use white pigment in the surface coat?. We use black since it shows up all the voids in the glass work easier. Unless painting in the mold, then doesn't matter.

Your pics make me want to hurry up and get mine done too!

Steve
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Steve,
An epoxy toing dough was used to fill in those areas and make a fairing to blend in the exhaust to the rest of the wing section
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:54 PM
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LV, NV
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Mixing cups

I have found out through working with Mach 2 Jets that a mixing plate works better than the cup for large projects. The chemical reaction is different and you have more time to add the epoxy vs it kicking off in a matter of minutes when you see the smoke rise from the cup. Ted Goodwin also used the plate method with great success with his molds for the F-16...

P. Richards aka SwatTeam
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:59 PM
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Plates works well for really large quantities of resin if your cloth doesnt soak it up really fast.
The last few layers of cloth on the mold is 22oz cloth. It takes roughly 46oz of resin for one layer of this cloth on the horten.

When you have a cloth that takes that much resin, you dont brush it on, you literally pour it on and spread it, then leave it to soak in.

For lighter weight cloths, we only mix 125 grams of resin at a time
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the quick response ivertm.


Steve
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