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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:19 AM
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FlyingW's Avatar
Long Valley, NJ, USA
Joined Dec 2001
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I've used Titebond-II for many years and it is my favorite. I used to use Titebond (without a number after) and it was fine too. Saw Titebond-III at the store but was reluctant to try it since the T-II was available right next to it. I think once dry, it would take quite a long time under water to dissolve any of these bonds.

Titebond glues dry surprisingly fast and best of all they wash with water, do not smell, and the bonds are way stronger than the wood.

Since the wing is already dry-fitted, make sure to make nice little fillets of glue around the spar-to-rib joints. Do not omit all those all-important gussets - they add a lot of strength and look good.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:29 AM
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cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
572 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingW View Post
I've used Titebond-II for many years and it is my favorite. I used to use Titebond (without a number after) and it was fine too. Saw Titebond-III at the store but was reluctant to try it since the T-II was available right next to it. I think once dry, it would take quite a long time under water to dissolve any of these bonds.

Titebond glues dry surprisingly fast and best of all they wash with water, do not smell, and the bonds are way stronger than the wood.

Since the wing is already dry-fitted, make sure to make nice little fillets of glue around the spar-to-rib joints. Do not omit all those all-important gussets - they add a lot of strength and look good.
well said. On my build I have had only one glue joint come loose that was due to me not clamping that part properly. Otherwise I would agree that the joints are stronger than the wood.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:54 AM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
Agree on the Titebond II. If it really comes down to waterproofing being essential, you may soon have some far more serious issues than the odd loose wooden joint...

FWIW, I'll always take a joint apart, apply glue to the appropriate areas, make the joint and ensure that any glue that got squeezed out is spread around the outer edges of the joint. WIth the setting speed of Titebond, there's ample time to glue up rib spar slots, place the spar and check for loose glue around each joint.

D
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:22 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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center wing section

Well, after mocking up the center section and deciding on a glue. I had Tilebond III so used that. I lifted each section and added glue then repositioned them. I cut the ribs so I could cap the on both sides. Just something I like to do. I like the look after it's covered. The trailing edge might be a bit thicker than Andy intended. Won't know till I do the finished sanding on the wing. So here are some photos as to how far I got with the center.

Now do I just build the wing tips separately and glue them to the center section?

I suppose I should vigilant of the width of the bow, so they aren't wider or smaller than the wing section.

Any advise or concerns I should be aware of?
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 08:22 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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W4 is short.

I'm Starting the wing tips. As you can see in the photo, I have W3 in place only to keep the end of the bow to the right width. I won't glue that in place as It's glue on the center section.

I do have a problem. W4 as you can see is 3/8" of inch short. I have to move it 3/8" closer to the wing tip. Do you think this will be a problem, or should I cut a new W4?
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 11:09 PM
iva
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Vancouver Harbour Sp, Canada
Joined Jan 2001
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I would move the rib out and it should be fine as long as you do the same on both tips.
Are you going yo use rubber bands to attach the wing or some other method?
I am asking because finding the right size rubber bands could be a challenge. I also do not consider rubber bands very reliable - especially if you do not inspect them often. On my 75% I am using two plastic bolts on the TE and one metal permanently attached to the bottom of the center rib (reinforced in that area to support the load) just behind the LE.
If you are interested in the idea I could try to dig some photos?
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 05:04 AM
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FlyingW's Avatar
Long Valley, NJ, USA
Joined Dec 2001
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Dilllion,

You could discretely add the 3/8" to the existing rib (a little front and aft); the change in airfoil shape will not affect the flying. If you move the existing rib out you may notice the wider space and it will drive you crazy later on...

I used rubber bands - two tied together to get the required length. While I agree that a bolt-on wing is more practical, I like how rubber bands let go in a crash and minimize damage to the airframe.

Paul
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:31 AM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Wing tie down

Iva, if you can find those photos of how you rigged the wing, I would be most interested in seeing how you did it. W, how did you rig the front dowel? I don't like the single point to attach the rubber bands. I was thinking of running the dowel through the window area left to right. so I get two points to attach the bands, but after reviewing whats on the internet, it looks like everyone udes just the single point out the front.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 03:54 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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Check how that rib shortage affects the line of the spars. If it doesn't bother the spars, go with the slightly outboard rib position. If it does, add a little to the rib length as needed, front and rear, and apply those typical 1/8" balsa gussets to the rib/wingtip bow joints to stiffen matters up.

Wing fixin'
My first four Bees had banded on wings and did just fine - they were occasionally seen to divert from straight and level using a little above cruising power too Never had any problems using those long, skinny rubber bands that Andy C recommended, but they'd not work with a bigger wing even if you could find them now. Andy used to change the wing bands before every flight - being tight, I'd toss them after a day's flying and they worked.

The single dowel out front worked fine as long as you followed the plan and instructions to the letter. The only issues of failure happened to folk who were too idle to follow the plan and use the appropriate parts to reinforce the dowel mounting.

To band on your wider chord wing, you'd need to do a little experimenting with whatever bands you can find to get the length you need. Two #64 fastened together end to end sounds a good place to start,

D
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 07:57 PM
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FlyingW's Avatar
Long Valley, NJ, USA
Joined Dec 2001
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Dillion,

I did exactly what the plans say with strengthening thread wound around the dowel and surrounding wood. I added a few small extra pieces of wood to double up the area. I've never flown mine hard so I can't comment on how well it stands up. I think I would be afraid to put too many tight bands as they would be pulling some "Gs" already on the structure.

The dowel through the window is a good idea. Just make sure that whatever solution you go with, the dowel is tied to something solid on the fuse.

Paul
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 10:24 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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New Template

I tried to patch up W4 so it would work where it was suppose to be. Thanks Dereck for alerting me to the fact that the notches for the strings might be in the wrong place. They where. I tried patch, recutting and lengthening the rib I had, but by the time I was finished it was a mess and still not right. So I cut another cardboard template And I still didn't get it right. So I cut out the template without notches and just marked the the notches by placing the cardboard temple right on the plans. Woohoo, finally got it right.

Thanks for the support guys. Since a couple of you agree, two dowel points up front might be better, I'll go with that plan. The balsa I used for the windows go through the front covering down into the plane and attached on the fuel tank platform. That should make for enough strength for the wind screen top.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:55 PM
iva
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Vancouver Harbour Sp, Canada
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attaching the wing

Sorry for the late reply - weather was too good, spent most of the day flying.
Hopefully the photo and my description would be clear enough to explain how I attach the wing on my 75% Bee
The hole in the middle is being used as one of the three points holding the wing to the fuselage. I hope that you can see the channel pointing forward and exiting from the hole. This is the front bolt "latch". The bolt (metal) is permanently attached to the bottom of the center rib. The whole area is reinforced by some light and regular plywood and some heavy duty balsa triangles spreading the load by a large extent to the leading edge. Put the wing on the top of the fuselage (bolt head in the hole), slide it forward so the head will be trapped by the channel, fasten two plastic bolts at the trailing edge! Leave the final installation of the metal bolt for after covering has been finished. Fine tune how the bolt grips the platform. Once happy with it, remove the wing turn it up side down and apply a drop of thin CA to secure the position of the bolt.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:40 AM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Wing bolt?

Iva, can I see a photo of the wing bolt attached to the wing?
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:03 AM
iva
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Hopefully this photo will be easier to understand. I should have mentioned in the previous post, that the metal bolt serves the role of the front dowel in traditional wing mounting arrangement.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:38 AM
iva
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wing bolt

Just removed the wing and made a few photos. It is amazing what macro can reveal!
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