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Old Sep 28, 2012, 04:42 PM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
614 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillion View Post
Where did everyone go? I thought we'd build this together. I lost all of you?
been busy with work. I would start in the middle for the wing and work your way out. as far as steel you would need to find a local metal supplier. Lowes or HD may have it but not sure about that size.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:00 PM
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TexasClouds's Avatar
Joined Feb 2010
2,170 Posts
i'm lurking.

did you sand the wing tips yet? here is a tip, don't add any ca to the laminations before sanding...or else it will get rock hard! don't ask me how i know
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 06:04 PM
iva
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iva's Avatar
Vancouver Harbour Sp, Canada
Joined Jan 2001
539 Posts
I would not start shaping the laminations before they are attached to the rest of the wing tip sections.
I used sending as the last phase of shaping of the laminations. I did most shaping by David plane. The plane is based on a heavy duty razor blade. I believe that Master Airscrew is making a low end (plastic) version of the tool. Patience in this phase will pay off. Check the progress frequently. You do not want to remove too much of the material!
If you can slide the wing over the building board, you may only need to move it for one rib bay to complete the center section of the wing and that should not be a problem (no need to buy a new "building board"). Again, while gluing the tips to the center section you need support for the portion of the center section only-not the full length.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 08:43 AM
AND FOR MY NEXT TRICK....!
jodini's Avatar
Omaha Millard, Nebraska, United States
Joined Sep 2004
4,062 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillion View Post
Where did everyone go? I thought we'd build this together. I lost all of you?
Still watching Dillion!

Yes, glue on the wingtips and then do the sanding. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine!

Joe
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 08:13 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
The clever trick with the tip bows is how they change shape and taper, from a full 1/2" deep LE curved section at the front joint matching the centre section LE to a 1/4" deep tapered rectangle matching the TE.

As it's much harder to replace wood than whittle it away, this job demands some pre-thought and careful whittlin'.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 05:37 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
Building Board

I purchased a piece of metal 2' X 3' the largest I could fine. Its's thinner than the board I have so I also purchased a piece MBS board, 2' X 4'. I'm going to attach it via small screws in the corners. I'm planning on placing the metal to one left edge. Was thinking of gluing it on with liquid nails.

Do you think there will be a problem if I don't cut W1 ply? It's cut out of a hard balsa 3/16" thick
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Last edited by Dillion; Oct 02, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:59 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
Two days drive from my Bee-hive, am going to guess that w1 is the centre rib. Balsa will do fine if you're rubber banding the wing on. My presentBee has the ply front bolt-on hooks glued onto a balsa centre rib, though ply sounds a good idea for a biggaBee.

D
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:32 AM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
Plans

I had a set of the 48" wing enlarged 125%. But after advice from the forum, I decided to go with the 40" wing proportion, so I cut out one bay on each side and moved the center ribs out a bit to get the 50" needed. I'll go cut the center W1 rib out of ply as that seems to be the consensus that would be needed. I might be able to start the wing today.

Also, looking at these huge chunks of wood I'm going to use for ribs, should I drill lightening holes? Not sure how much weight this will really save, or are the strength of the ribs needed for one reason or another.
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Last edited by Dillion; Oct 04, 2012 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 02:58 PM
Build more, websurf less
FlyingW's Avatar
Long Valley, NJ, USA
Joined Dec 2001
1,712 Posts
I wouldn't bother with lightening holes as there really aren't that many ribs. Small "breather holes" - yes - to allow the passage of expanding interior air while covering.

That size wing will fly well and certainly bee good fun.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 03:45 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
breather holes

W, As per your suggestion, I drilled a few breather holes rather than cutting out larger lightening holes.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:09 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
Starting the wing

After slicing the plans to suit my needs of a 50" wing withe bays at about equal distance, I'm beginning the wing construction.

Wax paper is laid over the plans and the bottom spars are locked in place with my magnet system. I love these! As you can see. I can hold the spars aligned with the plans, also held tight to the plans by pressing down on them and locked left and right with a couple more magnets.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:39 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
All Dried Fitted

I dry fitted the three ribs and spars, ready to glue. Carpenters Glue?
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:57 PM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
614 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillion View Post
I dry fitted the three ribs and spars, ready to glue. Carpenters Glue?
Tite Bond 3 is the best glue I have found. takes longer to dry but holds really well. I am trusting it on my 30%er I'm building.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 10:01 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
150 Posts
Glue

I use to use Titebond 3, but then didn't think I needed three. I purchased the original Tilebond. Now I wanted to see what was the difference. The original is a carpenters glue. II is watrer resistance and III is waterproof. Now I don't expect to get my Bee wet, but you never know, so I'm exchanging the original for three. Thanks "cbarnes"
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:07 AM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
614 Posts
I have never done any test myself but I have been told that the 3 has a little strong bond. Its funny I have seen other glues and epoxies and what sorts that will tell you how much weight they should hold to give you an idea of how good it is but I can't find anywhere on the bottle. I just upgraded to the 16oz bottle today as my Cap232 has emptied the smaller 8 oz bottle.
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