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Old Sep 19, 2012, 10:41 AM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillion View Post
Okay, so some of you think the servos on the outside is a bad idea. Messes up the look of the bee. So, I'm plugging up the holes now, filler should be dry soon. For now, I'll go with the original plans and build a three channel. THe 48" wing comes out to 62". Big wing. I'll use that. "Al M" Question, please explane to me how you make the elevator work as ailerons. Do I split the elevator?
Okay, sorry about that. I'm just old and boring about having the controls on the outside. Would probably put pushrods on the inside if I hadn't built scale models once and know how much fuss THAT is!

Once again, with deference to Al's experiences, you have to make a choice. All my Bees have used the kit's wire elevator joiner - even when I've had to make my own, and I hate bending and cutting piano wire! Never had one fail, and that includes during some pretty comprehensive crash testing that I've done over the years...

As in many ways, Andy Clancy came up with a good structure, by putting plywood doublers over the central elevator areas. It wouldn't show in a photo, but my presentBee has a one piece elevator LE, from tip to tip, comprised of 1/8" square spruce or basswood, then another of 1/8" square balsa. The latter allows for ease of doing stitched figure 8 hinging. There's kit-like ply doublers tying in the two LE pieces and the cured sheet elevator root pieces.

So far, they've held up to life at the front line

A third alternative is to have separate elevators with a split pushrod driving both from one servo. This is nearly as big a pain as two servos, etc - guess how I know? It could be done in the back of a Bee, but not without a lot of Anglo-Saxon on account of it's tight on space down there and the short length of pushrod does not live well with bends...

The cheapest and simplest way in your BitBiggerBee would Bee to follow the plan! Those balsa pushrods work - if you can come on over, I have some lovely rock-hard 1/4" square balsa strip that would be great for pushrods. Other pluses are that you have more room to work in the fuselage than a RegularBee and you can about make the wire/balsa/wire pushrods off the plan.

Choices, choices - no wonder some folk just buy big shiny boxes

D
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 03:46 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Changed the servos

I changed the location of the servos. Plugged up the holes I created by putting them on the outside. Built a servo tray, which will be removable. I'm going to use dubro push rod tubes and rods. I like those cause they can't get hung up on anything. Moving along.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 06:51 PM
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The joiner between my elevators was broken several times in mishaps. Eventually it was two servos or replace it involving a lot of work.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:14 PM
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United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Rudder

I moved on to the Rudder. Too much going on with the fuselage. Had to get away from it. I ran down to the basement and cut out a form for the rudder. I spray glued the drawing to the wood and band sawed. A little sanding and I have a form I think will last through the next millennium. The magnets worked out very well, I could move them around to where they were needed. I pushed them in tight to the form. I can't imagine doing this with pins. The gorilla glue dry quickly.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:30 AM
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I have never tried using hot water but one trick that I was taught while sheeting the fuse of the Cap 232 I'm building was to spray the wood with window cleaner, just make sure it is the kind with ammonia in it. my fuse is sheeted in 1/8 balsa and once spray with window cleaner it would bend in any way I wanted it to. Build looks great though, will be following along. Where did you get the plans from?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 07:26 AM
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Dillion,

You did the right thing putting the servos inside. One trick for installing a Bee pushrod is to connect it to the servo horn first before lowering it into the fuse. Feed the tail-end through its slot. Lastly push the horn onto the servo.

A small magnetic screwdriver would be perfect for getting the servo horn screws in - I don't have one so I remember holding the whole thing upside down while fiddling with the tiny screws.

By the way - aren't those laminated outlines cool? Super light and strong.

Paul
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:27 AM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
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United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Thanks

I think the laminate wing tips are very kool and with the magnet system very easy to build. I never tried with pins and rubber bands, but they look harder. I have used Windex, but found it didn't matter whether I used it or just let the wood soak the liquid in. I think the ammonia is an old wives tale.
As far as the plans, here is a location with all the BEEZ
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=plan+lazi+bee you need to roll down more than half way on the page to find them.
As far as putting the servos inside, I bow out to the knowledge in this group. I didn't see any issue, but then I'm you didn't let me put myself in a position where I would of regretted the decision.
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Last edited by Dillion; Sep 20, 2012 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:39 AM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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Still have, and use, the cardboard laminating templates I made for my firstBee! Not a bad run for some thick corrugated cardboard and packing tape - nearly 18 years.

As I'm too tight to buy building magnets, I pin the card jigs onto my building board and pin the laminations around them. I put short pieces of scrap balsa between the laminations and the pins though, to stop the pins imprinting themselves into the laminations,

The laminated tips are incredibly strong. I once whacked a slimeyBee in, about wrecked the wing. The tips were fine though. A little enthusiastic sanding to get the covering off the tips, some frantic building and I had another wing based on the old tips by the following weekend.

D
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 01:12 PM
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Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Rudder 2

Now to assemble the rudder. Just a few piece no problem. Went together rather quickly. I'm using a dubro tail wheel, not sure if I could ever bend music wire that tight of a twist as Andy ask us to do.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 02:48 PM
Balsa Dust and CA Fumes
Dillion's Avatar
United States, PA, West Chester
Joined Oct 2007
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Whats next?

So what have I missed? I have the fuselage built. Settled on the location of the servos. Built the rudder. Hinged the Rudder. Crated a side door for the battery access.
To do.
1. Build a floor and hold downs for battery
2. Attach the servo tray.
3. Install push rod tubes.
4. Control horn on Rudder.
5. Do I need another side door for the servos on the other side?????
6. Build Stabilizer.
7. ???? What have I missed?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 03:04 PM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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Check you can reach down to your servos in case you have to tinker with them post-covering.

Have you hinged your battery hatch? Mine is magnetically attached, but comes off completely. It's the second one - I only know approximately which field the first one is in. So hinges probably are better...

Section four reinforcement looks good. I've not actually broken a Bee there, but it never looked good to me. My presentBee has the kit structure there, but the longerons are Basswood, not hard balsa.

Andy C claimed to have flown a Speedy Bee with no tailplane, using the wing's ailerons as elevons, but Andy claimed a lot Yes, you will need a stabiliser, don't forget it!

D
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:37 AM
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I would at least add provisions for a servo door/hatch. If you have chubby fingers, like me, this will come in handy. I would also add carbontcarbon tape to the elevator hinge line top and bottom as wall as the main spar of the wing. Especially if you plan on ant type of high G flying or snaps.... I have broken lots of bees doing high stress snap rolls! Project looks good. Keep it up!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:47 AM
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you may consider putting some led lights in the fuse and wing before covering...
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:18 AM
iva
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Dillion,

Great work so far!
I am glad that you are sticking to the original wing design, at least initially. I see no reason to change the airfoil or to add the ailerons. Shoulder wing position (above all the heavy bits) and motor thrust line position, will make your rolls a bit barrely - no matter aileron or rudder executed. By increasing the size of the plane by 25% you are increasing the wing area about 56%. That alone offers the room for some significant wing loading reduction. My idea of a proper Bee fun is to keep it as light as possible. Due to its draggy nature, adding power past 1.5:1 or 2:1 trust to weight ratio will not change the way your Bee will fly. Keeping it light, definitely will! On a windy day I can fly my 75% Bee (other end of the spectrum) backwards or keep it in a single spot like a kite. The roll rate on high rates is insane! At the same time, due to a right blend of built in stability and light wing loading, it is one of the most forgiving planes ever!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:40 AM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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Iva
Is your large scale Bee a 75% of the regular Lazy Bee 40" or what?

Years ago, in the days when 'KRC' was the only electric fly-in on the eastern edge, I came across a guy with a 75% scale model of a 48" long wing Lazy Bee - he reckoned it was a very steady flier. At the time, the smaller Bee variants had something of a rep of being a 'little frantic'

Light definitely outdoes over-powering in Bee-ville. I still recall how relatively boring my E-Bees were in the days of lugging around 16 ounces of 8 cell nicad packs... But Andy C used to fly his on ten cells using MEC gearboxes and the higher end ferrites that MEC sold back in the day. They were not boring!

I really should dig out the Wattmeter and record what my Bee has by way of wattage.

D
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