Okay, based on your drawing above, suggestions:
Increase the aileron chord by an inch
Lighten up the tips. That much 1/4" balsa can be hefty stuff. Four laminations of 1/4" x 1/16" would be lighter and vastly stronger.
Don't get too tied up with traditional kit structures. Some are done like that so they won't break even if the odd spar is a little dodgy/light/has flawed grain and the builder/owner is not really that good at building, but always overpowers his models as everything he owns should be at least scale supersonic.

Andy C designed the Lazy Bee to be really strong structurally, and still be light - as I have proven on many occasions . Added to which, even the early days 3D Lazy Bees with tuned pipes on racing 21 glows didn't go all that much faster than any other Lazy Bee - the model has stupendous buckets of drag all over it.

Which, bragging again, may explain why I modify the heck out of every kit I build, but all I've ever done over six Lazy Bees is alter the motor mount and servo placement...

D

So I'm still putting the Dihedral in the center? Or would it be better served on the wing tip, not very much wing tip after the Aileron. If I put the dihedral in the center the wing won't set right on the fuselage because of the front section (WS-2). I'll need to keep the center section that rest on the fuselage flat.

As you've drawn it, sorting out a hingeline should come next. The outer end of the aileron is too low compared to the parallel height part to have hinges centrally placed in the vertical plane.

3/4" thick LE suggests a lot of whittlin' and balsa dust production...

D

Thanks for all the direction.
I enlarged the Aileron, it's now 16" X 5"
Located the Hinges.
Changed spars on the front area.
Reduced the block needed to the Leading Edge 1/2" X 1"
Still need to deal with the center.

By the way, if anyone wants the full size plans, just ask. joeccrc@gmail.com

So this is my latest plan, I dealt with Ribs here, more design changes to the aileron, I enlarged it some. Worked with the hinge locations, though I like round ones. Dealt with how the flat part in the center would attach. You'll notice W-1 has double wide slots for spars to be glued to center then to the wing spars going across the wing. I designed W-4 with a smaller chord so it tapes easier to the wing tip.

If you have any observations or suggestion PLEASE state them. I am not a aeronautic engineer , just a modeller.

Moving On

Dillion,

I think the tricky geometry puts the hinge line on the bottom. That should work fine.

Paul

Paul, your right, I didn't give the hinging enough thought. I changed the inside shape of the Aileron Ribs and added a 1/4" Balsa strip to attach the hinges through.
Thanks

I think alll of the construction is finished. I beleive I'm ready to cover the Bee

Dillion,

I think the hinges either have to be on the bottom, or at least follow a line something like the red one in the figure. This is because of the taper starting at the last W3 rib to W4.

Maybe that's what you already had in mind - I can't really tell from the wing plan - nicely drawn by the way.

Paul

Paul, I see what you mean. So I need to make the rib thicker. What if I replace W-4 with a W-3 rib. That would move the taper over to the end section.

I added the new Hinge Line, replaced W-4 with another W-3. I also gave credit to all of you for the design. If you care to give me your real names and emails I would like very much to stay in touch. I know we are far from finished here, but I wanted to say Thank you all very much. Without you this project would not of come any where close to where it is. You all did Good. Lets finish this puppy up.
Once we are all satisfied with the plans for this wing I will post the full size plans in a PDF

Wee! Got to fly my Lazy Bee Sunday. This is really why you have a Lazy Bee.

Mine will take off in about five or six feet and then go vertical a decent way. The roll rate never ceases to grab attention, or do a display line pass of loop/roll/loop/roll until you run out of line.

It was a typical 'breezy' Chicago day - only a 'strong wind' to most folk. Fortunately, there's not much upwind of the field, so turbulence is low. Once I managed a vertical landing - on all three wheels too - from about 20 feet. Always impresses the doo-floppy-doo lobby, that one.

In a rare calm spell, one has to do a 'DizzyBee' on the ground just out from the flight line. With nearly 300W, mine can do that pretty smart-ish.

Unfortunately, this site must have been laid out by a government - it's usually a cross wind at 90 degrees to the flight line. Which messes up doing a half dozen touch and goes in one pass...

The usual clubmates were all over the Bee - one's got a slimer he wants to electrocute, another has an OilySpeedy, a few more need only a little push to convince them they can Bee-come members of the LBOC with a little effort.

What did Andy Clancy turn loose on a safe, stodgy hobby?

D

I like to do the Dizzy Bee Spin 5-6 times then exit in an immediate takeoff. People often think it is ground looping uncontrollable...if they only knew

I'm going to begin coverin g the Bee. I suppose I'll just cover the whole thing in yellow then add the trim over it. No sure if I want it red trim or Black, I leaning towards Black. Black and Yellow I thing is more Bee like. Any Options?

I think starting with the Fuselage would be a beginning.

Originally Posted by Dillion

I'm going to begin coverin g the Bee. I suppose I'll just cover the whole thing in yellow then add the trim over it. No sure if I want it red trim or Black, I leaning towards Black. Black and Yellow I thing is more Bee like. Any Options?

I think starting with the Fuselage would be a beginning.

You can't really go wrong on colors...the Bee always looks good.

I used some Hobbyking covering on mine and had some minor issues with it pulling away at seams when shrinking. Its always when trying to get that last wrinkle out

My 6,000,000 watt ($10) Harbor Freight heat gun packs alot of heat