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Old Nov 12, 2012, 09:19 AM
Smasher of foam
FunkeyMonk's Avatar
United States, OH, Stow
Joined Sep 2012
231 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
1S experiece with something like a Sukhoi XP is invaluable and will eliminate about 90% of the crashes in the faster 2S planes, because your brain acts on instinct to save the plane, without having to wait for the pilot to think about what to do. With an XP, 9 out of the 10 crashes that will break a Stryker or sbach in half are shrugged off and you can pick it up and throw it back in the air.

When someone transitions from an XP to a AS3X Sbach, they'll find that the Sbach is so much easier to fly and it can do stuff you can only dream of doing with the XP.
Precisely what I've been hoping ---- I've got a UMX Polecat which I feel I've pretty much mastered. I don't crash it anymore and I'm starting to get a little frustrated with its limitations. I fly now with the control horns in the innermost slots, 95% throw (to eliminate an aileron-locking problem I kept having) and 0 expo. But I have to keep 100% throttle at all times to keep the plane moving. It'll be a few more months on the Polecat, then I intend to buy the SBach. (ooooooorrrrrr maybe the new 540QQ)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 12:55 PM
-= Trojan Man =-
Arycon's Avatar
United States, VA, Virginia Beach
Joined Jan 2012
861 Posts
Question for you guys regarding the 5030 propellers.

I had a stalled landing this weekend due to wind. I was a foot off deck and couldn't throttle up enough to compensate before my little Sbach hit the pavement. She's fine except for a cracked propeller but none of the Local Hobby Shops have the propeller in stock! I'm hoping they may have the 5030 propeller. I just found out via this thread that people are using it.

Does the 5030 propeller fit right on using the stock propeller set screw or do you have to connect it some other way?

Thanks guys...Im hoping to get some flying in as I am off work for the next two days.

Cheers,
Ary
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 02:10 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
Joined Jun 2010
2,701 Posts
5030 fits right on. Don't lose the spacer ring that is on the prop adapter. I've had trouble getting the screw off the first time. I think Eflight uses thread lock for some reason. If that is the case be careful not to strip the screw head and use a heated screwdriver. If you haven't done this, one way to undo thread lock is to heat it. Doesn't take much. I put an old screwdriver on the stove flame for a few seconds, not red hot! I put the screwdriver into the screw head and wait a few seconds for the screw to warm up. Doesn't take much. The screw will come right out now.
5030 prop is way stronger and more appropriate for the Sbach. I didn't notice much difference with the change except on my Carbon Cub.
Mike
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:01 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shastamike View Post
5030 fits right on. Don't lose the spacer ring that is on the prop adapter. I've had trouble getting the screw off the first time. I think Eflight uses thread lock for some reason. If that is the case be careful not to strip the screw head and use a heated screwdriver. If you haven't done this, one way to undo thread lock is to heat it. Doesn't take much. I put an old screwdriver on the stove flame for a few seconds, not red hot! I put the screwdriver into the screw head and wait a few seconds for the screw to warm up. Doesn't take much. The screw will come right out now.
5030 prop is way stronger and more appropriate for the Sbach. I didn't notice much difference with the change except on my Carbon Cub.
Mike
No threadlock used in this case---Threadlocker will deteriorate plastic, weakening the plastic causing it to split/crack...The hole for the screw is just a lot smaller than the threads on the screw...I, too, have buggered up the head of the screw getting it off as the screw is made from rather soft material...I've found that you must use the absolute properly sized screwdriver to keep from messing up the head of the screw...This screw likes the points of the Philips screwdriver to be more flat/blunt, not long and pointy...

If you do heat up the tip of the screwdriver, as Mike suggested, be sure to not get the tip too hot...Not only can you melt the plastic too much you can remove the temper/hardness from the tip of the screwdriver...

Kevin
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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I just got through with flight #2 of my V1 Sbach with Beast AS3X guts...What FUN!!!...This flight was in calm conditions, not in 20mph winds like the first flight...

I had the chance with this second flight to fine tune the trim and to have a better understanding of what I have...When I built this plane I knew of the nose heaviness the V1 exhibits...With this in mind I placed the brick further back in the fuselage...I also removed some foam in the nose to resemble the battery box configuration of the V2 Sbach to get the CG further back...I succeeded---Perhaps too much!!!...The plane was flying a tad tail down in straight and level flight...I liked the feel of the plane but could tell it was tail heavy...When I rolled inverted the model climbed with zero elevator input from me!!!...I had the 300mAh 35C NanoTech battery as far back as I could get it...The next flight will have the battery as far forward as possible...I achieved my goal of removing the nose heaviness and I'm glad that I can now make CG adjustments with battery as this was impossible with the stock V1 Sbach...

Kevin
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:42 PM
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USA, CA, Chico
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daft punk View Post
i really like the gee bee prop with 3000. i feel like i have more control doing slow 3d stuff with gb prop for some reason?
ive been flying mig for a couple months now on 3S with no issues or additional mods other than reinforcing horitontal stab. just a warning though,once u start flying it on 3S you'll never wanna go back to 2S.....
Ok!!! Have to try my 3s 180 nanos on the Mig, and 3000kv motor and geebee prop on my other Sbach,, gona have to order more 3S's. :-)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:10 PM
**I'm Battman**
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Twin Falls, Idaho
Joined Jan 2005
8,599 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBABBEL View Post
Hey Guys,

I lost my LHS a couple of years ago.
Order most of my planes from Wholesale...
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Default.htm

One short phone call and my replacement plane is on the way.
FedEx will pick up the damaged Sbach in the morning.
About as quick and easy as it gets.


rc
Reality update:

FedEx picked up my damaged Sbach on Fri. Nov 2nd.
Wholesale said they were never 'notified' by FedEx.
WT received my returned plane on Fri Nov 9th.
Wholesale shipped my replacement plane today after two ph calls.
ETA: Fri. Nov 16th.
WOW!


rc
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Great!
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 07:02 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
RC,

Glad you're finally getting yours! Looking forward to your flight-report! We haven't had any decent flying wx around here since I shot my last 3s video, so I've been getting my RC fix by flying the nCPX in the living room & sneaking in a few 130X flights from the deck before the wind comes up. BTW - I'm loving the Hyp 400 35c in the 130X & CC! I also like it in the Sbach for sport-flying & flying in gusty conditions. It should be broken-in by now, so I'll do the static testing & post the results soon.

Joel
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 10:26 AM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,665 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
Plug will not fit. If you have any other lipo chargers you can get an adapter at rc-connectors.com.
I dont know about your SE5a charger, but someone else will.

Dont buy the eflite batteries!
Buy hyperion with umx connector.
Miniaviation.
Nano-tech with umx connector.
Babbelbatts.
I's say the battery order should be:
1) BabbelBats
2) BabbelBats
3) BabbelBats ....you get the idea
4) Hyperion with UMX
5) MiniAviation 210 Beast Packs

I will note I have not tried the new Nano-tech packs that some people have been having great results with. Though I have been burned by nanopuffs before.I'm waiting to see the longevity results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Tom,

The PZ charger has a 300mAh-2A current range, so that's not a problem. However, you would have to find or make an adapter cable that would work with the UMX packs. If you are serious about this hobby, do yourself a huge favor & pick up a hobby-grade multi-chemistry balance-charger than displays charge info. It will pay for itself in battery savings alone.

Joel
+100

Actually a nice inexpensive starter charger is the Revoletrix-FMA Cellpro Multi4.
Charges through the balance tap, small, inexpensive, Almost Idiot-proof, Can charge 1-4Cell Lipo packs, NiCad, LiFe, NiMH, LeadAcid, etc.

-Brian
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:00 PM
when down=up, up=expensive
whichwaysup's Avatar
United States, VA, Roanoke
Joined Apr 2012
2,764 Posts
Sbach (s) Weekend

Well, the Sbachs had a rough weekend. This little Sbach prompted me to buy the Dynam Sbach and I had a chance to get out and maiden it this weekend. Unfortunately, I had the ailerons reversed (apparently, checking for movement during pre-flight is not the same as checking for direction ). Though slightly off topic, here's the maiden video if anyone's interested. I also had a warp in the elevator that meant what appeared to be neutral was actually significant negative deflection. For those with morbid curiosity, you'll get to watch me fight to keep the thing from digging a hole on it's first flight. Good news is she's fixed up and flying GREAT now. Highly recommend it if anyone wants a bigger version.

Sbach maiden with Ailerons reversed (0 min 24 sec)


While the epoxy was drying on the big Sbach, I pulled my UM Sbach 3D out for a spin. I realized pretty quickly I had myself on high rates, but was having so much fun with it that I decided not to correct the 'problem'. All went well until I came in for a landing and a crosswind caught it. I attempted to correct, instictively reacting to it as if it were on low rates, which was a significant over correction on high rates. The correction to the over correction was also an over correction (are you following this?) and long story short, in she went, breaking off the nose, smashing the battery hatch, and smushing (technical term) the nose cone. She's back together, but a little less pristine.

Good news is that the next day, I flew them both without incident. Crash and burn, live and learn.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:18 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
Joined Jun 2010
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That was one scary maiden. Ouch!
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:22 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
No threadlock used in this case---Threadlocker will deteriorate plastic, weakening the plastic causing it to split/crack...The hole for the screw is just a lot smaller than the threads on the screw...I, too, have buggered up the head of the screw getting it off as the screw is made from rather soft material...I've found that you must use the absolute properly sized screwdriver to keep from messing up the head of the screw...This screw likes the points of the Philips screwdriver to be more flat/blunt, not long and pointy...

If you do heat up the tip of the screwdriver, as Mike suggested, be sure to not get the tip too hot...Not only can you melt the plastic too much you can remove the temper/hardness from the tip of the screwdriver...

Kevin
I seem to remember from helis that thread-lock is not good on plastic. Thanks for reminding my. Can't see why thread-lock would needed anyway. The rotation of the prop would never allow the screw to back out. Just feels like something is keeping the screw from backing out the first time. After that I have no problem pulling the screw.
And yes...I should mention that if you do heat the screwdriver to use an old funky one as it is never the same again. Good and warm is plenty. I suppose it softens the plastic. It's the only way I've been able to get a first time prop screw out.
Mike
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:13 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
WWU,

Reversed ailerons?? That usually results in 're-kitting' the plane. You did an excellent job of getting her down in one piece!

Sorry to hear about your S3D. That's why I use expo on my planes if I want a mellower response, rather than dual rates. I just know that I'd eventually forget to flip the switch. Back in the late 80s when dual-rates & expo were becoming popular, I watched a guy auger-in a nice 1/4-scale Extra 230 on approach because he forgot to switch to low rates for the landing. Right then, I decided that when I upgraded my tx, I would use expo instead of dual-rates. Besides - many full-scale planes use some form of expo, and the variable-ratio steering in our cars is a form of expo. So it seemed natural to use it on my RC vehicles, as well.

At least you were able to patch her up. Hopefully, she still flies straight & true. I broke the nose right off one of my V1s. I snapped her in while messing around down low & slow. Apparently, a bit too low and a bit too slow! To my surprise, she went back together like a jigsaw puzzle & flew just like she did before.

Joel
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
1,864 Posts
I have had CA from attaching a spinner to a prop "leak" under the screw and that was tough to break loose.
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