What are we doing about removing the control horn linkage slop in the rubber?

I haven't taken the time to fix it yet but I am wondering if anyone else has found a simple fix.

Seems like some Sbachs have the holes in the ridder control horns a bit to big which is where the slop comes in.

Originally Posted by RCBABBEL

Les is M,

I sell custom Hyp (3S) 180s because the weight is perfect.
Flight times are only about 5 min but fast charging makes the short flights a non issue.
While I'm flying a batt is always charging.
3S crack is real so be careful!!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1540831
Weight is a 'big deal' on these 2oz planes!


Prop adapters are not needed on the UMX 2S brushless planes.
GWS 5030 & 5043 props fit perfectly.
Balance everything.
She is a rocket on 3S especially with the GWS 5043.
The 5043 can't unload in flight on 2S power.
Totally amazing on 3S!

Are you comfortable flying her on 2S?
If not, don't go to 3S yet.

CF mod a must on 3S power!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=727

Shoot me a PM anytime if you have other Qs...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/priva...=newpm&u=54990

Thanks,

rc

Nice "IN an Out" sticker on the right wing. Fits right in, barely notice it.
Mike

Originally Posted by BumpierDrake960

What are we doing about removing the control horn linkage slop in the rubber?

I haven't taken the time to fix it yet but I am wondering if anyone else has found a simple fix.

Seems like some Sbachs have the holes in the ridder control horns a bit to big which is where the slop comes in.

Having a ball with mine. This is my first UMX and I definitely feel like I am late to the party, and Oh what a party it is.
The control horn holes are a bit too big. Thats the problem with z-bends. The hole needs to be bigger to get the bend through. An easy fix is to drop a dab (very small dab in this case) of CA on the control horn hole with the rod in place and hit it with some kicker immediately. This will form a small bearing that takes all the slop out of the linkage, at least slop caused by the over sized hole. On bigger builds just moving the control surface will break the bond between the rod and CA but on these little things a bit of Vaseline on the rod might help keep things from being permanent.
Also there is quite a bit of flex in the U bend in the control arm. I think a solid control rod would be a better solution. But I haven't gotten around to that mod yet. Both of these little mods as well as some CF to stiffen up the tails should take most of the "porposing" at high speed.

Originally Posted by shastamike

Nice "IN an Out" sticker on the right wing. Fits right in, barely notice it.
Mike

Mike,

Not a single IN-N-OUT Burger joint in Idah.
Nearest location is a 2hr 40min drive.
Wrth it!
.
.
.
Just got home from an amazing morning of flight.
3Sbach for my speed fix.
3SB3D for my flying fix.

60° & calm.

rc

ps...I grew up in Klamath Falls.
Perfect view of Mt. Shasta out our kitchen window.
Delta Darts continually in the air.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convair_F-106_Delta_Dart
Flying control line planes and dreaming of RC.
Good times!

Originally Posted by RCBABBEL

Mike,

Not a single IN-N-OUT Burger joint in Idah.
Nearest location is a 2hr 40min drive.
Wrth it!
.
.
.
Just got home from an amazing morning of flight.
3Sbach for my speed fix.
3SB3D for my flying fix.

60° & calm.

rc

ps...I grew up in Klamath Falls.
Perfect view of Mt. Shasta out our kitchen window.
Delta Darts continually in the air.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convair_F-106_Delta_Dart
Flying control line planes and dreaming of RC.
Good times!

I was thinking that there aren't many "In an Out" burgers in Idaho.
Delta Dart is a great name for that aircraft.
We used to live in remote area of Trinty Co. on the Eel River. Military Jets would come in low through the river drainage to practice radar evasion below hill tops . I could see their helmets. My wife was a fire lookout. They would buzz her tower, one on each side below her position. One did a roll next to her tower! Glad they are on our side!
Mike

Mine is suppose to be here tomorrow! Pretty excited to say the least... So far I have the stryker and geebee haven't had but one flight on the geebee because I can't find a place to fly with a walkway. Looking forward to trying some 3D stuff that the stryker cannot do.

Pickle,

Thanks for the CA on control horn tip. I tried it and then flew. I can not believe how much better it flies now. It will actually fly straight instead of me always having to use a bit of rudder input. I thought this plane was amazing before... Now it is an even better flier.

Thanks for the tip,

Bumpy

Originally Posted by BumpierDrake960

What are we doing about removing the control horn linkage slop in the rubber?

I haven't taken the time to fix it yet but I am wondering if anyone else has found a simple fix.

Seems like some Sbachs have the holes in the ridder control horns a bit to big which is where the slop comes in.

Don't buy magnumXLs if you're not a magnum sorry had to go there.

-Brian

i get mine today

Originally Posted by kalmon

Don't buy magnumXLs if you're not a magnum sorry had to go there.

-Brian

THANK YOU! Somebody HAD to say something. It was like having an elephant in the room. I was dying here!

Originally Posted by Pickle72

The control horn holes are a bit too big. Thats the problem with z-bends. The hole needs to be bigger to get the bend through. An easy fix is to drop a dab (very small dab in this case) of CA on the control horn hole with the rod in place and hit it with some kicker immediately. This will form a small bearing that takes all the slop out of the linkage, at least slop caused by the over sized hole. On bigger builds just moving the control surface will break the bond between the rod and CA but on these little things a bit of Vaseline on the rod might help keep things from being permanent.
Also there is quite a bit of flex in the U bend in the control arm. I think a solid control rod would be a better solution. But I haven't gotten around to that mod yet. Both of these little mods as well as some CF to stiffen up the tails should take most of the "porposing" at high speed.

yes, indeed- this is the reason why positive snap rolls aren't fast as negative snap rolls. I have also slop and play in the linkage/horn hole.
I will build a "washer" from thin servo arms- and glue this on the stock horn--fits perfect at my old SBach .
Also a little problem is the U-linkage...we will see what we can do here...

Id be careful with the u bend. Itd be okay on the elevator or ailerons, but the rudder also controls steering.
I remember when people would add nose steering to the old PZ Cessna 210s the servo would always strip quickly unless they added a u bend. While these linear servos have come along way, so has the stress and weight and speed and AS3X built up pressure on the servo, Id stick to focusing on the control horn.

Ca on the control horn worked well for me, just broke z bend loose after the glue dried, took all the slop out. I was thinking of bridging the u bend with a small piece of cf to see if it helps the dolphin tail action. on 3s I cant stress enough on prop balance, on the ground no bad vibes but when the prop unloaded in the air it sounded terriable past 3/4 throttle, I actually could get it to porpoise going vertical at full throttle..., smooth as glass on the ground at wot...

Oh man!
new Nano 300mah lipos with the UMX connector!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mpatible_.html
$4.90 each....

Originally Posted by brushless55

Oh man!
new Nano 300mah lipos with the UMX connector!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mpatible_.html
$4.90 each....

I got 5. I have been running the 260s in my stryker and seeing as the 260s weigh the same as the 200 eflights I can't see much harm in it. I don't think I would go any larger though....

Edit: the 300s are 1 gram heavier.

Danny